**Chapter 9 151**

Hydrodynamics of Regular Breaking Wave *by Diana De Padova and Michele Mossa*

Preface

Geophysics is the study of the Earth, oceans, atmosphere, and near-space through

applying the physics properties and increasing our knowledge about their properties. Geophysics has been useful in many economic applications such as hydrocarbon, ores, and minerals exploration. Also, it is applied in engineering,

This book is divided into nine chapters organized into two sections named

The first section, "Geophysics", consists of four chapters by scientists and researchers from different countries. It demonstrates the importance of using different geophysics methods in exploration. The first chapter (Essa and Elhussein, 2020) presents a combined formula for gravity and self-potential methods to interpret the buried geologic structures represented by simple models. The second chapter (Lile, 2020) used EM Turam measurements in mining exploration. The third chapter (Dvorkin, 2020) presents the history and basics of rock physics, the effect of pore fluid on rock properties, and the multiple variables affecting rock properties. The fourth chapter (Ragab and Mansour, 2020) demonstrates the enhanced oil recovery phase during oil reservoir production after the water/gas injection and discusses the chemical enhanced oil recovery

The second section, "Ocean Waves Studies", describes that open seas, enclosed basins, and coastal areas are of utmost importance for human activities. Hence, since the last world war, scientists and engineers have spent much effort in gaining insight on the main (and actually quite fascinating) physical phenomena that occurs in such a water body: surface waves. Long waves, wind waves, infragravity waves, earthquake-induced tsunamis, landslide-induced impulse waves are only a few examples of the wide range of water oscillations that engineers, with the help of scientists, need to face to guide the sustainable use of natural resources. The new sensitivity to climate change and integrated management are only two examples of new challenges to be faced. Mathematical modeling, either analytical or numerical, and experimental investigations are valuable tools that can be used to gain insight into wave generation, propagation, and interaction with the boundaries of water bodies and that are continuously and rapidly improving thanks to

The "Ocean Waves Studies" section of this book presents five chapters covering the modeling of wind and surface gravity waves, the storm surge forecast and hindcast, the modeling of the landslide-generated tsunami, and the hydrodynamics of

environmental, archaeological, and deep-Earth investigations.

"Geophysics" and "Ocean Waves Studies".

that reduces the residual oil saturation.

technological advances.

breaking waves.
