Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles

*Deepti Pargai, Shahnaz Jahan and Manisha Gahlot*

## **Abstract**

Recently, due to harmful effect of climate change and other environmental concerns, the interest towards natural dyes has gained momentum. Presently in this high technological era, only aesthetic appeal of natural dyes could not get full attention of consumers. A consumer is attracted towards a type of product which is not only aesthetic but also have some functional properties. Hence considering this functional aspect, various researches are being carried out to find out the new dimensions of natural dyes. Colours and other functional properties can be achieved by various synthetic agents, but the exploration of new functional properties of natural dyes would be beneficial and relevant for the present as well as for the future. This chapter compiles all functional aspects of natural dyes which are related to adding functional properties such as antimicrobial, UV protection, insect repellent, etc. to textiles which can protect the human being from various kinds of harmful effects of surroundings such as UV radiation, microbes, bacteria and other harmful insects. This chapter will not only deal with available methods for analysis of these functional properties of natural dyes but also explore the reason for functional properties of natural dyes.

**Keywords:** functional properties, natural dyes, UV protection textiles, antimicrobial property

## **1. Introduction**

Natural dyes are obtained from different natural sources such as plants, insects, animals and minerals. These are used for coloration of textiles and food since ancient time [1–3]. With the advent of synthetic dyes, natural dyes had been subdued for a while. Recently environmental consciousness of consumer increases due to several harmful impacts of synthetic dyes; thus, interest towards natural dyes has again gained momentum [4, 5]. Natural dyes are biodegradable as well as nontoxic. These dyes are safer for environment in terms of safe discharge [6]. In this era of climate change and different lifestyle of human being, the environment around human being becomes more harmful than the previous era. Microbes, moth insects and UV rays are causing various kinds of harmful effects to human being [7–9]. Presently the human does not wear clothes only for modesty. Hygiene, cleanliness and protection become major issues, and thus the demand for functional clothes has also increased. Textile fabric majorly covers the human skin, creating a microclimate. Presently as the climate changes, the requirement for functional

clothing arises. Besides providing colour, natural dyes have inherent functional properties such as resistance for bacteria, fungus and moth, UV protection, etc. [10–12]. Fabric as a second skin covers the major part of the body and hence can be used as a preventive measure from near environment. At present, the researches on utilisation of natural dyes in functional finishing of textiles have increased because of the efficiency of natural dyes which provides protection against various harmful agents as well as provides greater comfort. Dyed fabric remains fresh and odourfree in use [13, 14]. Natural dyes obtained from traditional dyes giving plants contain a variety of compounds such as curcumin, crocin, bixin, carthamin, punicalagin, nimbin, etc. known to have therapeutic properties [15]. Many plants contain secondary antimicrobial which gives protection against microbial attack.

on tencel fabric [26]. Henna leaves having lawsone compound were found to be very effective against *Candida glabrata* in solution as well as after application on wool substrate [27]. It is reported that antibacterial and antifungal properties of natural dye are due to its phenolic content. Phenolic compounds attach on the surface of textiles by forming a complex. When the fabric comes in contact with microbes, these attached phenolic compounds hamper the enzyme production in microbes; thus, further cell reaction would not take place, and at the end cell dies. Natural dyes obtained from *M. composita* leaves having alkaloids, are found to be effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacterial strains [28]. Madder (alizarine functional group) and safflower having carthamin with alum, Znsulphate and tannic acid also imparted antibacterial properties, to the dyed polyamide- 6 fabric [29]. *Rumex maritimus (*golden dock*) and Quercus infectoria (indigo) dyes are found to be the most effective against common microbes like Escherichia coli*, *Bacillus subtilis*, *Klebsiella pneumoniae*, *Proteus vulgaris* and *Pseudomonas aeruginosa* [12]. Berberine compound as a cationic dye having quaternary ammonium structure

can act as an antibacterial agent. The dyed wool represented a high level of antibacterial activity [30]. Application of natural dyes peony, pomegranate, clove, *Coptis chinensis* (Chinese goldthread) and gallnut extracts on cotton silk and wool fabric provides excellent antibacterial activity against *Staphylococcus aureus*. The possible reported reason for antimicrobial activity of natural dyes obtained from pomegranate peels, *Coptis chinensis*, peony and clove is due to ellagic acid, berberine

Antimicrobial testing is a valuable aid for textile production, distribution and consumption. To measure the antimicrobial efficacy of natural dyed textiles, test methods are performed under controlled conditions. The antimicrobial activities are generally tested both qualitatively and quantitatively through standard tests. Some of the available and majorly used AATCC standards for textile are as follows: One prominent quantitative standard for antimicrobial testing of textiles is AATCC 100-2004 (bacterial reduction method) [32]. Under this test, the test microorganism of standardised concentration is grown in liquid culture. This prepared culture is diluted in a sterilised nutritive solution. Control and natural dyed fabric swatches are inoculated with microorganisms. Inoculated control and

incubation, shake for 1 minute; then concentrations of microbes are observed. Finally it is calculated how much microorganism reduces as compared to initial

where A is the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated treated test specimen swatches in the jar incubated over the desired contact period while B is the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated treated test specimen swatches in the jar immediately after inoculation (at "0" contact time).

Another standard method for antimicrobial testing of textiles is parallel streak method (AATTC Test Method 147-2004). The agar surface is streaked with an inoculum of test bacterium. The samples treated with natural dye and the undyed sample (control sample) are placed in close contact with this agar surface. This is

The following equation is used to calculate the width of a zone of inhibition

Percent reduction of bacteria R ¼ 100 Bð Þ � A *=*B (1)

W ¼ ð Þ T � D *=*2 (2)

C, in sealed jars. After

and eugenol, respectively [31] (**Table 1**).

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

concentration.

incubated for 37°C for 18–24 hours.

along a streak on either.

**209**

test fabrics are allowed to incubate for 24 hours at 37<sup>o</sup>

Applications of natural dyed textile can be extended to a diverse field such as sportswear and medicinal field due to its various functional properties such as antimicrobial as well as UV protection [16–18].

## **2. Functional properties of natural dyed textiles**

Natural dyes having functional groups such as OH, NH2, COOH, etc. groups and the textile fibres with active sites (–OH, –SO3H, COOH, C6H5OH, –NH2) can make a complex with or without mordant. Because of the different interactions of dye and fabric, many functional properties with fastness can be achieved [19]. Besides functional group of natural dye such as tannins, flavonoids, anthraquinone, etc., functional groups of respective fabrics are also responsible for functional properties in the fabric [20]. The following functional properties are obtained through natural dyeing of textiles.

## **2.1 Antimicrobial/antibacterial property**

The surrounding of human includes a variety of microorganisms like bacteria and other microbes, which are invisible for the naked eyes. Bacterium is a unicellular organism. It is divided in Gram-positive (*Staphylococcus aureus*) and Gramnegative (*E. coli*) on the basis of chemical and physical properties of their cell walls [21]. Examples of common Gram-positive bacteria are *Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus epidermidis and Bacillus cereus*, and the examples of Gram-negative bacteria are *Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumonia, Shigella flexneri and Proteus vulgaris* [22]. Clothing majorly covers the human skin or nearby area of direct contact from the human skin. Thus the growth of these microorganisms on fabric affects the wearer as clothes on the human body provide a favourable environment for microbial growth; it provides warmth, oxygen and water as well as nutrients from perspiration. Textile fabrics itself can also be affected by the growth of these microorganisms [23]. Cotton is one of the most affected fabrics by these microbes [24]. Naturally dyed textiles can provide protection against these microorganisms. Antimicrobial properties of natural dyes are due to the presence of various compounds such as anthraquinones, flavonoids, tannins, naphthoquinones, etc. [25]. Various antimicrobial agents are present in natural dye for common human pathogen, but very few are reported in the case of textiles with respect to human pathogenic strain, as testing method is different in the case of testing against textiles. Many plants which have been traditionally used for dyeing are also considered having medicinal properties which provide protection against these harmful microorganisms. For instance, natural dye which is obtained from *Punica granatum* peels having hydrolysable tannins exhibited a notable antimicrobial activity when applied

## *Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

clothing arises. Besides providing colour, natural dyes have inherent functional properties such as resistance for bacteria, fungus and moth, UV protection, etc. [10–12]. Fabric as a second skin covers the major part of the body and hence can be used as a preventive measure from near environment. At present, the researches on utilisation of natural dyes in functional finishing of textiles have increased because of the efficiency of natural dyes which provides protection against various harmful agents as well as provides greater comfort. Dyed fabric remains fresh and odourfree in use [13, 14]. Natural dyes obtained from traditional dyes giving plants contain a variety of compounds such as curcumin, crocin, bixin, carthamin, punicalagin, nimbin, etc. known to have therapeutic properties [15]. Many plants contain secondary antimicrobial which gives protection against microbial attack. Applications of natural dyed textile can be extended to a diverse field such as sportswear and medicinal field due to its various functional properties such as

*Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*

Natural dyes having functional groups such as OH, NH2, COOH, etc. groups and the textile fibres with active sites (–OH, –SO3H, COOH, C6H5OH, –NH2) can make a complex with or without mordant. Because of the different interactions of dye and fabric, many functional properties with fastness can be achieved [19]. Besides functional group of natural dye such as tannins, flavonoids, anthraquinone, etc., functional groups of respective fabrics are also responsible for functional properties in the fabric [20]. The following functional properties are

The surrounding of human includes a variety of microorganisms like bacteria and other microbes, which are invisible for the naked eyes. Bacterium is a unicellular organism. It is divided in Gram-positive (*Staphylococcus aureus*) and Gramnegative (*E. coli*) on the basis of chemical and physical properties of their cell walls [21]. Examples of common Gram-positive bacteria are *Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus epidermidis and Bacillus cereus*, and the examples of Gram-negative bacteria are *Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumonia, Shigella flexneri and Proteus vulgaris* [22]. Clothing majorly covers the human skin or nearby area of direct contact from the human skin. Thus the growth of these microorganisms on fabric affects the wearer as clothes on the human body provide a favourable environment for microbial growth; it provides warmth, oxygen and water as well as nutrients from perspiration. Textile fabrics itself can also be affected by the growth of these microorganisms [23]. Cotton is one of the most affected fabrics by these microbes [24]. Naturally dyed textiles can provide protection against these microorganisms. Antimicrobial properties of natural dyes are due to the presence of various compounds such as anthraquinones, flavonoids, tannins, naphthoquinones, etc. [25]. Various antimicrobial agents are present in natural dye for common human pathogen, but very few are reported in the case of textiles with respect to human pathogenic strain, as testing method is different in the case of testing against textiles. Many plants which have been traditionally used for dyeing are also considered having medicinal properties which provide protection against these harmful microorganisms. For instance, natural dye which is obtained from *Punica granatum* peels having hydrolysable tannins exhibited a notable antimicrobial activity when applied

antimicrobial as well as UV protection [16–18].

obtained through natural dyeing of textiles.

**2.1 Antimicrobial/antibacterial property**

**208**

**2. Functional properties of natural dyed textiles**

on tencel fabric [26]. Henna leaves having lawsone compound were found to be very effective against *Candida glabrata* in solution as well as after application on wool substrate [27]. It is reported that antibacterial and antifungal properties of natural dye are due to its phenolic content. Phenolic compounds attach on the surface of textiles by forming a complex. When the fabric comes in contact with microbes, these attached phenolic compounds hamper the enzyme production in microbes; thus, further cell reaction would not take place, and at the end cell dies. Natural dyes obtained from *M. composita* leaves having alkaloids, are found to be effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacterial strains [28]. Madder (alizarine functional group) and safflower having carthamin with alum, Znsulphate and tannic acid also imparted antibacterial properties, to the dyed polyamide- 6 fabric [29]. *Rumex maritimus (*golden dock*) and Quercus infectoria (indigo) dyes are found to be the most effective against common microbes like Escherichia coli*, *Bacillus subtilis*, *Klebsiella pneumoniae*, *Proteus vulgaris* and *Pseudomonas aeruginosa* [12]. Berberine compound as a cationic dye having quaternary ammonium structure can act as an antibacterial agent. The dyed wool represented a high level of antibacterial activity [30]. Application of natural dyes peony, pomegranate, clove, *Coptis chinensis* (Chinese goldthread) and gallnut extracts on cotton silk and wool fabric provides excellent antibacterial activity against *Staphylococcus aureus*. The possible reported reason for antimicrobial activity of natural dyes obtained from pomegranate peels, *Coptis chinensis*, peony and clove is due to ellagic acid, berberine and eugenol, respectively [31] (**Table 1**).

Antimicrobial testing is a valuable aid for textile production, distribution and consumption. To measure the antimicrobial efficacy of natural dyed textiles, test methods are performed under controlled conditions. The antimicrobial activities are generally tested both qualitatively and quantitatively through standard tests. Some of the available and majorly used AATCC standards for textile are as follows:

One prominent quantitative standard for antimicrobial testing of textiles is AATCC 100-2004 (bacterial reduction method) [32]. Under this test, the test microorganism of standardised concentration is grown in liquid culture. This prepared culture is diluted in a sterilised nutritive solution. Control and natural dyed fabric swatches are inoculated with microorganisms. Inoculated control and test fabrics are allowed to incubate for 24 hours at 37<sup>o</sup> C, in sealed jars. After incubation, shake for 1 minute; then concentrations of microbes are observed. Finally it is calculated how much microorganism reduces as compared to initial concentration.

$$\text{Percent reduction of bacteria R} = \text{100 } (\text{B} - \text{A}) / \text{B} \tag{1}$$

where A is the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated treated test specimen swatches in the jar incubated over the desired contact period while B is the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated treated test specimen swatches in the jar immediately after inoculation (at "0" contact time).

Another standard method for antimicrobial testing of textiles is parallel streak method (AATTC Test Method 147-2004). The agar surface is streaked with an inoculum of test bacterium. The samples treated with natural dye and the undyed sample (control sample) are placed in close contact with this agar surface. This is incubated for 37°C for 18–24 hours.

The following equation is used to calculate the width of a zone of inhibition along a streak on either.

$$\mathbf{W} = (\mathbf{T} - \mathbf{D})/2\tag{2}$$

## *Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*


fabric is dyed with *Xylocarpus granatum* (*cedar mangrove*) bark extract. In this experiment, the UPF values of all dyed samples were achieved above the range of 50. It was also reported that it is only possible because of the use of metal mordants as it helped in the formation of tannate complex [38]. Woollen fabric dyed with the blossoms of broom (*Cytisus scoparius*) and dandelion (*Taraxacum officinale*) also provides effective UV protection [39]. *Flos Caryophyllata (clove)* and *acutissima* shell with FeSO4 mordant provide anti-UV properties to the silk fabric and thus the wearer [40]. Weld, woad, logwood lipstick tree, madder, brazilwood and cochineal as natural dyes could provide good UV protection on hemp and flax fabric [41]. Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with gromwell roots absorb most of the UV rays [42]. Cationised cotton fabric dyed with henna dye extract exhibited outstanding enhancement in UV protection [43]. Dyeing of polyester fabric with chitosan and turmeric dye enhances the UPF of the fabric [44]. It was reported in a study that simultaneous dyeing and finishing of silk and wool fabrics with the use of cochineal and weld natural extracts enhanced the UPF and fastness of the fabric. As a result, excellent UPF range with high fastness was obtained [45]. Application of gallnuts, areca nuts and pomegranate peels dyed on silk fabric imparted the UV protection with deodorization and antimicrobial properties [46]. Antibacterial and UV protection properties were also obtained by cotton fabric dyed with banana peel [47]. Mordant with natural dyes such as cutch and madder also positively affects the UPF of the cellulosic nettle fabric. In several cases, the use of mordant improves the UPF value, whereas in most of the cases, mordant lowers the UPF value in comparison to blank [48]. Addition of mordant lowers the UPF value severely. This was most likely due to the complex formation ability of dye. Due to coordination bond formation between the dye and mordant, the structure of the dye changes and so does its light absorption properties. The absorption shifts to higher wavelengths of visible region, thus giving deeper colour but less UPF [49]. Very good UPF values were obtained when the pre-mordanting of jute fabric was done before the actual dyeing with *babool, ratanjot*, annatto and *manjistha.* Both bio and chemical mordant were used for this [50]. Chitosan mordanting of green tea dyed cotton fabrics enhanced the UV protection property [51]. Ferrous sulphate as a mordant establishes ternary complex with both fibre and the dye, and the remaining coordination sites of Fe metal can absorb UV radiation by converting electronic excitation energy into thermal energy [47]. Although natural dyes improve the UV protection properties of the textiles, some limitations are associated with it. For example, the amount of UV protection of dyed fabrics also tends to decrease due to exposure to sunlight as well as in laundry process. Therefore, there is a need to do research with the aim of enhancing the durability of natural dye. Traditionally mordants have been used since a long time to improve the stability and durability of natural dyes, but presently various kinds of surface modification techniques are being used to

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

enhance the durability [52] (**Table 2**).

**211**

Standard testing of specific functional property helps to maintain a quality of textile products [53]. (AATCC-183: 2004) test method is used for analysis of UPF [54]. UPF of the treated fabric samples was determined by using "Lab-sphere's UV transmittance analyser". This method is used to determine the UV radiation blocked and transmitted by the textile fabric. The UPF is computed as the ratio of the erythemally weighted ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) irradiance at the detector with no specimen to the erythemally weighted UV-R irradiance at the detector with a specimen present. The formula which is used for calculation of UPF is as follows:

ð3Þ

#### **Table 1.**

*Natural dyes with responsible component for antimicrobial properties.*

where W is width of clear zone of inhibition in mm, T is total diameter test specimen and clear zone in mm and D is diameter of the test specimen in mm [33].

It has been reported that dyed fabric is able to retain almost half of its initial antibacterial properties after few washings. Application of mordant like tannin or other cross-linking agent such as citric acid or any other surface modifications with cationisation or by applying biopolymer is also responsible for wash stability of functional properties of natural dyed textiles.

#### **2.2 UV protection**

Presently as the climate change are showing its harmful effects, the need for protection against UV rays has been increased in order to avoid incidences of UVinduced skin damages. Various sunscreen and synthetic UV absorbers for textile fabric are currently available in the market, but researches are carried out to search out eco-friendly alternative such as natural dyes to enhance the aesthetic as well as UV protection property of the fabric. UV protection properties of dyed fabric is analysed using UPF of the fabric. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) indicates the UV protection properties of the fabric.

Application of natural dyes on fabric significantly enhances the UPF of the fabric. UPF of fabric is affected by the absorption characteristics of natural dyes [34]. Tannins in plant act as a chemical protector against the UV radiation [35]. Tannin as a phenolic compound absorbs UV radiation due to resonance in structure and hence after the process of attachment on textile surface. These attached molecules absorb the UV radiation and thus protect the skin from absorbing UV rays. Tannin-based natural dyes such as *R. maritimus, M. philippinensis, K. lacca, A. catechu and A. nilotica* have good UV protection properties [36].

Various kinds of natural dyes provide protection against microbes as well as UV rays on different kinds of fabric such as wool, cotton and silk. Natural dyes from eucalyptus leaf extract with ferrous sulphate mordant can provide UV protection properties with antimicrobial properties to the dyed silk fabric [37]. The cotton

## *Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

fabric is dyed with *Xylocarpus granatum* (*cedar mangrove*) bark extract. In this experiment, the UPF values of all dyed samples were achieved above the range of 50. It was also reported that it is only possible because of the use of metal mordants as it helped in the formation of tannate complex [38]. Woollen fabric dyed with the blossoms of broom (*Cytisus scoparius*) and dandelion (*Taraxacum officinale*) also provides effective UV protection [39]. *Flos Caryophyllata (clove)* and *acutissima* shell with FeSO4 mordant provide anti-UV properties to the silk fabric and thus the wearer [40]. Weld, woad, logwood lipstick tree, madder, brazilwood and cochineal as natural dyes could provide good UV protection on hemp and flax fabric [41]. Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with gromwell roots absorb most of the UV rays [42]. Cationised cotton fabric dyed with henna dye extract exhibited outstanding enhancement in UV protection [43]. Dyeing of polyester fabric with chitosan and turmeric dye enhances the UPF of the fabric [44]. It was reported in a study that simultaneous dyeing and finishing of silk and wool fabrics with the use of cochineal and weld natural extracts enhanced the UPF and fastness of the fabric. As a result, excellent UPF range with high fastness was obtained [45]. Application of gallnuts, areca nuts and pomegranate peels dyed on silk fabric imparted the UV protection with deodorization and antimicrobial properties [46]. Antibacterial and UV protection properties were also obtained by cotton fabric dyed with banana peel [47]. Mordant with natural dyes such as cutch and madder also positively affects the UPF of the cellulosic nettle fabric. In several cases, the use of mordant improves the UPF value, whereas in most of the cases, mordant lowers the UPF value in comparison to blank [48]. Addition of mordant lowers the UPF value severely. This was most likely due to the complex formation ability of dye. Due to coordination bond formation between the dye and mordant, the structure of the dye changes and so does its light absorption properties. The absorption shifts to higher wavelengths of visible region, thus giving deeper colour but less UPF [49]. Very good UPF values were obtained when the pre-mordanting of jute fabric was done before the actual dyeing with *babool, ratanjot*, annatto and *manjistha.* Both bio and chemical mordant were used for this [50]. Chitosan mordanting of green tea dyed cotton fabrics enhanced the UV protection property [51]. Ferrous sulphate as a mordant establishes ternary complex with both fibre and the dye, and the remaining coordination sites of Fe metal can absorb UV radiation by converting electronic excitation energy into thermal energy [47]. Although natural dyes improve the UV protection properties of the textiles, some limitations are associated with it. For example, the amount of UV protection of dyed fabrics also tends to decrease due to exposure to sunlight as well as in laundry process. Therefore, there is a need to do research with the aim of enhancing the durability of natural dye. Traditionally mordants have been used since a long time to improve the stability and durability of natural dyes, but presently various kinds of surface modification techniques are being used to enhance the durability [52] (**Table 2**).

Standard testing of specific functional property helps to maintain a quality of textile products [53]. (AATCC-183: 2004) test method is used for analysis of UPF [54]. UPF of the treated fabric samples was determined by using "Lab-sphere's UV transmittance analyser". This method is used to determine the UV radiation blocked and transmitted by the textile fabric. The UPF is computed as the ratio of the erythemally weighted ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) irradiance at the detector with no specimen to the erythemally weighted UV-R irradiance at the detector with a specimen present. The formula which is used for calculation of UPF is as follows:

$$\mathsf{UPF} = \frac{\sum \mathsf{E}\_{\mathsf{A}} \times \mathsf{S}\_{\mathsf{A}} \times \Delta\mathsf{A}}{\sum \mathsf{E}\_{\mathsf{A}} \times \mathsf{S}\_{\mathsf{A}} \times \mathsf{T}\_{\mathsf{A}} \times \Delta\mathsf{A}} \tag{3}$$

where W is width of clear zone of inhibition in mm, T is total diameter test specimen and clear zone in mm and D is diameter of the test specimen in mm [33]. It has been reported that dyed fabric is able to retain almost half of its initial antibacterial properties after few washings. Application of mordant like tannin or other cross-linking agent such as citric acid or any other surface modifications with cationisation or by applying biopolymer is also responsible for wash stability of

Turmeric *Curcuma longa* Curcumin or diferuloylmethane with chemical formula

of (1,7-bis(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1,6 heptadiene-3,5-dione) and curcuminoids

**Botanical name Responsible component for antimicrobial properties**

Presently as the climate change are showing its harmful effects, the need for protection against UV rays has been increased in order to avoid incidences of UVinduced skin damages. Various sunscreen and synthetic UV absorbers for textile fabric are currently available in the market, but researches are carried out to search out eco-friendly alternative such as natural dyes to enhance the aesthetic as well as UV protection property of the fabric. UV protection properties of dyed fabric is analysed using UPF of the fabric. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) indicates the

Application of natural dyes on fabric significantly enhances the UPF of the fabric. UPF of fabric is affected by the absorption characteristics of natural dyes [34]. Tannins in plant act as a chemical protector against the UV radiation [35]. Tannin as a phenolic compound absorbs UV radiation due to resonance in structure and hence after the process of attachment on textile surface. These attached molecules absorb the UV radiation and thus protect the skin from absorbing UV rays. Tannin-based natural dyes such as *R. maritimus, M. philippinensis, K. lacca, A.*

Various kinds of natural dyes provide protection against microbes as well as UV rays on different kinds of fabric such as wool, cotton and silk. Natural dyes from eucalyptus leaf extract with ferrous sulphate mordant can provide UV protection properties with antimicrobial properties to the dyed silk fabric [37]. The cotton

*catechu and A. nilotica* have good UV protection properties [36].

functional properties of natural dyed textiles.

Pomegranate *Punica granatum* Tannins Henna *Lawsonia inermis* Lawsone

Golden dock *Rumex maritimus* Tannins Oak galls *Quercus infectoria* Tannins

Safflower *Carthamus tinctorius* Flavonoids

*Natural dyes with responsible component for antimicrobial properties.*

Neem *Melia azedarach* Phenolic compounds and flavonoids Madder *Rubia tinctorum* di- and trihydroxyanthraquinones

*Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*

Peony *Paeonia officinalis* Paenol/paenoside/paeonolide/paenoniflorin Clove *Syzygium aromaticum* Eugenol (2-methoxy-4 allyl-phenol)

*Coptis chinensis* Alkaloid berberine

UV protection properties of the fabric.

**2.2 UV protection**

**210**

**Name of the natural dye**

Goldthread/Canker root/Huang Lian

**Table 1.**


Gas detecting tube method was used for deodorising test. It measures the con-

The deodorising capacity of the dyed fabric is calculated using the following

where Cb is the gas concentration (ppm) of test tube without fabric (blank

Moth larvae which usually remain concealed cause the great losses to woollen textiles [62]. It has been estimated that 92.5 pounds wool fibre are eaten in 1 year due to the presence of protein in the wool [63]. Various product ranges such as carpet, blanket, namda (felted carpet), shawl and knit wears are majorly produced using wool fibre. Woollen carpet and handicraft play a major role in Indian export [64]. Dark humid conditions with 25–35° temperature are favourable conditions for moth larvae attack. Clothes moth (*Tineola bisselliella*) and carpet beetle (*Anthrenus verbasci*) are distributed in all the areas. Anti-moth finishing agents are DDT, permethrin, permethrin/hexahydro-pyrimidine derivative, cyhalothrin, etc. Some of these chemicals have been banned, while permethrin pyrimidine chlorine-based compounds are used widely as an anti-moth finishing agent for textiles, but these are becoming less effective on beetle larvae. The demand for replacing the permethrin and other synthetic anti-moth agent is increasing due to ecotoxicity of these anti-moth agents. The demand for natural anti-moth agent is increased due to eco-consciousness of consumers. In the case of natural dyes, its chemical structure also plays an important role in determining the anti-moth properties. Very few info are available for natural dyed anti-moth properties. Saffron flower waste, onion skin, henna, myrobolan, silver oak leaf, madder, wall nut, dholkanali and yellow roots were observed to impart anti-moth properties to wool, depending on the amount of tannin in their chemical composition. Natural dyes having higher amount of tannin repel the moths more effectively. In various experiments it has been reported that the natural dye having more than about 40% tannin is effective as an anti-moth agent, for instance, the dye extracted from silver oak, walnut husk and pomegranate rind having 47.87, 44.31 and 45.23% tannin, respectively, works

For testing anti-moth properties, natural dyed and undyed woollen fabric samples were kept in petri dishes. Ten alive carpet beetles were put on each petri dish. Petri dish were kept in incubator (time: 15 days, temp: 30–35, RH 50–60%). Weight loss of the fabric due to moth attack is observed. Visual examination of the damaged fabric and number of alive moths were also done. For the comparative analysis,

Dangerous diseases due to mosquito bite like dengue, malaria and chikungunya

hit over 1.13 million people in the country last year [67]. Global warming also increases the growth of mosquitoes and thus the growth in disease like malaria,

Deodorization performance %ð Þ¼ ð Þ Cb � Cs *=*Cb � 100 (4)

centration of ammonia gas. Natural dyed fabric is placed in the tube and the concentration of ammonia is observed. The reduction in concentration of ammonia signifies the deodorising capacity of dyed fabric. In blank (reference) tube, the

concentration of ammonia is about 500 ppm.

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

**2.4 Moth proof and insect repellent**

as effective anti-moth agent [65].

**2.5 Mosquito repellent**

**213**

Eulon (a synthetic anti-moth) is also used [66].

state) and Cs is the concentration of tube with fabrics [61].

formulae:

#### **Table 2.**

*Natural dyes with responsible component for UV protection properties.*


#### **Table 3.**

*UPF classification system (AS/NZS 4399:1996) [55].*

#### where

E<sup>λ</sup> <sup>=</sup> relative erythemal spectral effectiveness.

S<sup>λ</sup> <sup>=</sup> solar spectral irradiance.

T<sup>λ</sup> = average spectral transmittance of the specimen (measured).

Δλ = measured wavelength interval (nm).

The UV protection category was determined by the UPF values described by the Australian Standards/New Zealand AS/NZS 4399 (1996) given in **Table 3**.

#### **2.3 Deodorising**

Odour in textiles is caused by bacterial colonies due to favourable conditions such as perspiration [56]. Various studies reported about the deodorising performance of natural colourants. A study in the deodorising efficiency of gardenia, *Cassia tora* L., coffee sludge and pomegranate rind dyed fabric was observed. Maximum deodorising capacity was found in pomegranate followed by *coffee sludge (Coffea arabica), Cassia tora* and gardenia [57].

Natural dyeing of cotton, wool and silk fabric using gallnut also provides a better deodorising function against ammonia, trimethylamine and acetaldehyde and showed bacterial resistance against *Staphylococcus aureus* and *Klebsiella pneumonia*. The main component in the gallnut extract was found to be gallotannin which is the reason for these functional properties [58].

Natural dyeing of cellulosic and silk fabric with peony, clove and pomegranate (*Punica granatum*) also provides deodorising functionalization [59].

Application of fresh dye of indigo plant provided antimicrobial, sterilising or deodorising effect and treatment effect of atopic dermatitis [60].

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

Gas detecting tube method was used for deodorising test. It measures the concentration of ammonia gas. Natural dyed fabric is placed in the tube and the concentration of ammonia is observed. The reduction in concentration of ammonia signifies the deodorising capacity of dyed fabric. In blank (reference) tube, the concentration of ammonia is about 500 ppm.

The deodorising capacity of the dyed fabric is calculated using the following formulae:

$$\text{Deodorization performance} \left( \% \right) = \left( \text{Cb} - \text{Cs} \right) / \text{Cb} \times 100 \tag{4}$$

where Cb is the gas concentration (ppm) of test tube without fabric (blank state) and Cs is the concentration of tube with fabrics [61].

#### **2.4 Moth proof and insect repellent**

Moth larvae which usually remain concealed cause the great losses to woollen textiles [62]. It has been estimated that 92.5 pounds wool fibre are eaten in 1 year due to the presence of protein in the wool [63]. Various product ranges such as carpet, blanket, namda (felted carpet), shawl and knit wears are majorly produced using wool fibre. Woollen carpet and handicraft play a major role in Indian export [64]. Dark humid conditions with 25–35° temperature are favourable conditions for moth larvae attack. Clothes moth (*Tineola bisselliella*) and carpet beetle (*Anthrenus verbasci*) are distributed in all the areas. Anti-moth finishing agents are DDT, permethrin, permethrin/hexahydro-pyrimidine derivative, cyhalothrin, etc. Some of these chemicals have been banned, while permethrin pyrimidine chlorine-based compounds are used widely as an anti-moth finishing agent for textiles, but these are becoming less effective on beetle larvae. The demand for replacing the permethrin and other synthetic anti-moth agent is increasing due to ecotoxicity of these anti-moth agents. The demand for natural anti-moth agent is increased due to eco-consciousness of consumers. In the case of natural dyes, its chemical structure also plays an important role in determining the anti-moth properties. Very few info are available for natural dyed anti-moth properties. Saffron flower waste, onion skin, henna, myrobolan, silver oak leaf, madder, wall nut, dholkanali and yellow roots were observed to impart anti-moth properties to wool, depending on the amount of tannin in their chemical composition. Natural dyes having higher amount of tannin repel the moths more effectively. In various experiments it has been reported that the natural dye having more than about 40% tannin is effective as an anti-moth agent, for instance, the dye extracted from silver oak, walnut husk and pomegranate rind having 47.87, 44.31 and 45.23% tannin, respectively, works as effective anti-moth agent [65].

For testing anti-moth properties, natural dyed and undyed woollen fabric samples were kept in petri dishes. Ten alive carpet beetles were put on each petri dish. Petri dish were kept in incubator (time: 15 days, temp: 30–35, RH 50–60%). Weight loss of the fabric due to moth attack is observed. Visual examination of the damaged fabric and number of alive moths were also done. For the comparative analysis, Eulon (a synthetic anti-moth) is also used [66].

#### **2.5 Mosquito repellent**

Dangerous diseases due to mosquito bite like dengue, malaria and chikungunya hit over 1.13 million people in the country last year [67]. Global warming also increases the growth of mosquitoes and thus the growth in disease like malaria,

where

**Table 3.**

**Table 2.**

**Name of the natural dye/mordant used**

**2.3 Deodorising**

**212**

E<sup>λ</sup> <sup>=</sup> relative erythemal spectral effectiveness.

Δλ = measured wavelength interval (nm).

*(Coffea arabica), Cassia tora* and gardenia [57].

reason for these functional properties [58].

T<sup>λ</sup> = average spectral transmittance of the specimen (measured).

Australian Standards/New Zealand AS/NZS 4399 (1996) given in **Table 3**.

The UV protection category was determined by the UPF values described by the

**Botanical name Main component for UV**

Madder *Rubia cordifolia* Anthraquinone Cotton,

Cutch *Acacia catechu* Catechin (condensed

*Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*

*Natural dyes with responsible component for UV protection properties.*

Jamun leaves *Syzygium cumini* Flavonoids catechin Cotton Excellent Eucalyptus *Flavonoid* Tannin Cotton, wool Excellent

tannin)

Pomegranate peels *Punica granatum* Tannin Cotton Excellent Banana peels *Musa paradisiaca* Luteolin Giza cotton Excellent

**UPF rating UV-R protection Effective UV-R transmission (%) UPF labelling** –24 Good protection 6.7–4.2 15, 20 –39 Very good protection 4.1–2.6 25, 30, 35 –50, 50+ Excellent protection ≤2.5 40, 45, 50, 50

**protection properties**

**Fabric UPF**

Himalayan nettle

Cotton, Himalayan nettle

**range**

Very good

Excellent

Odour in textiles is caused by bacterial colonies due to favourable conditions such as perspiration [56]. Various studies reported about the deodorising performance of natural colourants. A study in the deodorising efficiency of gardenia, *Cassia tora* L., coffee sludge and pomegranate rind dyed fabric was observed. Maximum deodorising capacity was found in pomegranate followed by *coffee sludge*

Natural dyeing of cotton, wool and silk fabric using gallnut also provides a better

Natural dyeing of cellulosic and silk fabric with peony, clove and pomegranate

Application of fresh dye of indigo plant provided antimicrobial, sterilising or

deodorising function against ammonia, trimethylamine and acetaldehyde and showed bacterial resistance against *Staphylococcus aureus* and *Klebsiella pneumonia*. The main component in the gallnut extract was found to be gallotannin which is the

(*Punica granatum*) also provides deodorising functionalization [59].

deodorising effect and treatment effect of atopic dermatitis [60].

S<sup>λ</sup> <sup>=</sup> solar spectral irradiance.

*UPF classification system (AS/NZS 4399:1996) [55].*

## *Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*

yellow fever and dengue fever [68]. Pomegranate peel dyed cotton fabric using different conc. of polyvinyl alcohol provides 80 percent mosquito repellency [69].

Mosquito repellency test is performed using a prepared cage of 40 cm 40 cm. Fifty mosquitos are collected. Perforated transparent plastic is used to cover two opposite sides, while the other side of the cage is covered with carton [70].

## **3. Chemical compound structure and related functional properties of natural dyes**

Indigoid, pyridine, carotenoid, quinonoid, flavonoids, betalains, anthocyanin, anthraquinone and tannins are the major chemical compounds found in natural dyes. These chemical structures are also one basis for the classification of natural dyes [3]. These functional groups provide a specific functional property to the textiles.

#### **3.1 Indigoid**

The colouring matter in indigo plant leaves is a light yellow substance called indican (1H-indol-3yl b-D-glucoside) (**Figure 1**) [71]. Natural indigoid dyes are mainly obtained from woad (*Isatis tinctoria L. Brassicaceae*, also known as dyer's woad) and the indigo plant (*Indigofera tinctoria L*) in temperate climates [72].

The cotton fabric dyed with fermented indigo leaves exhibited excellent UV protection as well as antimicrobial activity against *Staphylococcus aureus*. But dyed sample was observed to be relatively inactive against *Klebsiella pneumonia*, while in the case of application of silk the negligible protection was observed. Deodorisation capacity of these dyed fabrics was found to be low [73]. Indigo dyed samples with ferrous sulphate as a metal mordant were observed to fall under good UV protection category [74].

The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) values of lac (having anthraquinone structure) dyed silk fabric with and without metal mordants also ranged between

Lawsone, henna, juglone and shells of unripe walnut natural dyes contain alpha

It has been reported in a study that application of henna extract on cantonised cotton fabric showed outstanding enhancement in UV protection with minimal impact on the tensile strength against harmful UV radiation due to alpha-

The basic structural feature of flavonoid compounds is the 2-phenyl-benzo pyrane or flavan nucleus, which consists of two benzene rings linked through a heterocyclic pyrane ring (**Figure 4**). Mostly all yellow-coloured natural dyes are derivatives of hydroxyl and methoxy-substituted flavones and isoflavones. A common example of flavonoid containing dye is weld (*Reseda luteola)* (containing luteolin pigment). Other plant sources are *Allium cepa* (onion), *Artocarpus*

*heterophyllus/Artocarpus integrifolia* (jackfruit), *Myrica esculenta* (Kaiphal), *Datisca cannabina* (Hemp), *Delphinium zalil* (Yellow larkspur), *Gossypium herbaceum*, *Sophora japonica/Styphnolobium japonicum*, *Butea monosperma/Butea frondosa* (flame of the forest/palas), *Mallotus philippinensis* (Kamala), *Bignonia chica/ Arrabidaea chica* (Carajuru/Puca), *Commelina communis and Pterocarpus santalinus*

naphthoquinone (**Figure 3**); these dyes are similar to disperse dyes [78].

very good and excellent for the silk fabric [77].

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

**3.3 Alpha naphthoquinones**

napthaquinone [79].

(red sandalwood) [80].

**215**

**3.4 Flavonoids**

**Figure 2.** *Anthraquinone.*

**Figure 3.**

*Alpha naphthoquinone.*

#### **3.2 Anthraquinone**

These dyes have anthraquinone (**Figure 2**) as a main colouring agent. These are generally in red colour also called mordant dyes. Madder, lacs, kermes and cochineal natural dyes have anthraquinone chemical structure [75].

The madder dye having anthraquinone structure improved both the UV protection performance and the antibacterial activity (against *Staphylococcus aureus* (*S. aureus*) and *Escherichia coli* (*E. coli*)) of the PET fabric. UV protection factor increased up to 106 and antibacterial activity up to 86% against both types of bacteria tested [76]. Excellent UV protection properties were achieved with the application of cochineal dye on silk and wool fabrics [45].

**Figure 1.** *Indigo.*

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

**Figure 2.** *Anthraquinone.*

yellow fever and dengue fever [68]. Pomegranate peel dyed cotton fabric using different conc. of polyvinyl alcohol provides 80 percent mosquito repellency [69]. Mosquito repellency test is performed using a prepared cage of 40 cm 40 cm. Fifty mosquitos are collected. Perforated transparent plastic is used to cover two opposite sides, while the other side of the cage is covered with carton [70].

*Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*

**3. Chemical compound structure and related functional properties**

Indigoid, pyridine, carotenoid, quinonoid, flavonoids, betalains, anthocyanin, anthraquinone and tannins are the major chemical compounds found in natural dyes. These chemical structures are also one basis for the classification of natural dyes [3]. These functional groups provide a specific functional property to the

The colouring matter in indigo plant leaves is a light yellow substance called indican (1H-indol-3yl b-D-glucoside) (**Figure 1**) [71]. Natural indigoid dyes are mainly obtained from woad (*Isatis tinctoria L. Brassicaceae*, also known as dyer's woad) and the indigo plant (*Indigofera tinctoria L*) in temperate climates [72]. The cotton fabric dyed with fermented indigo leaves exhibited excellent UV protection as well as antimicrobial activity against *Staphylococcus aureus*. But dyed sample was observed to be relatively inactive against *Klebsiella pneumonia*, while in the case of application of silk the negligible protection was observed. Deodorisation capacity of these dyed fabrics was found to be low [73]. Indigo dyed samples with ferrous sulphate as a metal mordant were observed to fall under good UV protection

These dyes have anthraquinone (**Figure 2**) as a main colouring agent. These are generally in red colour also called mordant dyes. Madder, lacs, kermes and

The madder dye having anthraquinone structure improved both the UV protection performance and the antibacterial activity (against *Staphylococcus aureus* (*S. aureus*) and *Escherichia coli* (*E. coli*)) of the PET fabric. UV protection factor increased up to 106 and antibacterial activity up to 86% against both types of bacteria tested [76]. Excellent UV protection properties were achieved with the

cochineal natural dyes have anthraquinone chemical structure [75].

application of cochineal dye on silk and wool fabrics [45].

**of natural dyes**

textiles.

**3.1 Indigoid**

category [74].

**Figure 1.** *Indigo.*

**214**

**3.2 Anthraquinone**

The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) values of lac (having anthraquinone structure) dyed silk fabric with and without metal mordants also ranged between very good and excellent for the silk fabric [77].

## **3.3 Alpha naphthoquinones**

Lawsone, henna, juglone and shells of unripe walnut natural dyes contain alpha naphthoquinone (**Figure 3**); these dyes are similar to disperse dyes [78].

It has been reported in a study that application of henna extract on cantonised cotton fabric showed outstanding enhancement in UV protection with minimal impact on the tensile strength against harmful UV radiation due to alphanapthaquinone [79].

## **3.4 Flavonoids**

The basic structural feature of flavonoid compounds is the 2-phenyl-benzo pyrane or flavan nucleus, which consists of two benzene rings linked through a heterocyclic pyrane ring (**Figure 4**). Mostly all yellow-coloured natural dyes are derivatives of hydroxyl and methoxy-substituted flavones and isoflavones. A common example of flavonoid containing dye is weld (*Reseda luteola)* (containing luteolin pigment). Other plant sources are *Allium cepa* (onion), *Artocarpus heterophyllus/Artocarpus integrifolia* (jackfruit), *Myrica esculenta* (Kaiphal), *Datisca cannabina* (Hemp), *Delphinium zalil* (Yellow larkspur), *Gossypium herbaceum*, *Sophora japonica/Styphnolobium japonicum*, *Butea monosperma/Butea frondosa* (flame of the forest/palas), *Mallotus philippinensis* (Kamala), *Bignonia chica/ Arrabidaea chica* (Carajuru/Puca), *Commelina communis and Pterocarpus santalinus* (red sandalwood) [80].

**Figure 4.** *Flavones (a class of flavonoids).*

It has been reported that quercetin, a flavonoid, imparted better antioxidant, antibacterial and UV protection performance to silk fabric [81]. Flavonoids and anthocyanin from red onion skin (*Allium cepa* L.) are natural dyes with antibacterial activity and UV protection after application on wool and cotton fabric [82].

## **3.5 Di-hydropyrans**

These are closely related to flavones in terms of chemical structure [83]. Logwood, brazilwood and sappanwood are common example of di-hydropyrans (**Figure 5**) which generally provide darker shades on silk wool and cotton [84].

Dyeing with logwood dye having di-hydropyrans showed maximum zone of inhibition against *F. solani* and *P. decumbens* even without any mordanting [85].

Annatto and saffron come under the carotenoid (**Figure 7**) family. It has been

Tannins are higher-molecular-weight phenolic compounds. The molecular weight of tannins ranges between 500 and 3000. It is found in a wide range of natural flora such as fruit, pods, plant galls, leaves, bark, wood and roots. Tannins

reported that carotenoids have anti-radiation property [88].

are generally divided into two groups (**Figures 8** and **9**):

1.Condensed tannins (proanthocyanidins)

2.Hydrolysable (pyrogallol) [89]

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

**3.8 Tannins**

**Figure 8.** *Condensed tannins.*

**217**

**Figure 7.** *Carotenoids.*

**Figure 6.** *Anthocyanin.*

## **3.6 Anthocyanidins**

Anthocyanins (**Figure 6**) are water-soluble natural pigments belonging to the phenolic family [86]. Carajurin, a direct orange colour for silk coloration, is obtained from the leaves of *Bignonia chica*. These are commonly found in red, purple, blue-coloured flowers and fruits.

It was reported that red reddish dyed silk fabric also provides the antioxidant, antimicrobial activities and UV protection property due to anthocyanin [87].

## **3.7 Carotenoids**

Carrots are the main source of carotene presence due to double bond conjugation.

**Figure 5.** *Di-hydropyrans.* *Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

**Figure 6.** *Anthocyanin.*

It has been reported that quercetin, a flavonoid, imparted better antioxidant, antibacterial and UV protection performance to silk fabric [81]. Flavonoids and anthocyanin from red onion skin (*Allium cepa* L.) are natural dyes with antibacterial

activity and UV protection after application on wool and cotton fabric [82].

*Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*

These are closely related to flavones in terms of chemical structure [83]. Logwood, brazilwood and sappanwood are common example of di-hydropyrans (**Figure 5**) which generally provide darker shades on silk wool and cotton [84]. Dyeing with logwood dye having di-hydropyrans showed maximum zone of inhibition against *F. solani* and *P. decumbens* even without any mordanting [85].

Anthocyanins (**Figure 6**) are water-soluble natural pigments belonging to the

It was reported that red reddish dyed silk fabric also provides the antioxidant,

phenolic family [86]. Carajurin, a direct orange colour for silk coloration, is obtained from the leaves of *Bignonia chica*. These are commonly found in red,

antimicrobial activities and UV protection property due to anthocyanin [87].

Carrots are the main source of carotene presence due to double bond

**3.5 Di-hydropyrans**

*Flavones (a class of flavonoids).*

**Figure 4.**

**3.6 Anthocyanidins**

**3.7 Carotenoids**

conjugation.

**Figure 5.** *Di-hydropyrans.*

**216**

purple, blue-coloured flowers and fruits.

**Figure 7.** *Carotenoids.*

Annatto and saffron come under the carotenoid (**Figure 7**) family. It has been reported that carotenoids have anti-radiation property [88].

## **3.8 Tannins**

Tannins are higher-molecular-weight phenolic compounds. The molecular weight of tannins ranges between 500 and 3000. It is found in a wide range of natural flora such as fruit, pods, plant galls, leaves, bark, wood and roots. Tannins are generally divided into two groups (**Figures 8** and **9**):

1.Condensed tannins (proanthocyanidins)

2.Hydrolysable (pyrogallol) [89]

**Figure 8.** *Condensed tannins.*

Tannin is considered as a protective agent against microbes and UV rays. Antimicrobial and antioxidant properties of dyed wool fabric were observed to have improved after application of tannin [90].

## **4. Conclusion**

Presently the consumers become aware of hygienic healthy and protective lifestyle; hence there is a necessity of clothing with functional properties as it covers the major part of the body. The various changes in climate and environment require more protection against UV rays, microbes and insects protecting human from vector-borne diseases, and clothes do not only cover the modesty or basic requirement but also are more functional in terms of protection. Aesthetic as well as medicinal properties of natural dyes has been exploring since ancient time. The glory of natural dyes somewhat subdued after the invention of synthetic dye and presently with the increase of eco-consciousness. Various researches have been conducted on functional aspect of natural dyes, but still there is a need to find out the possible sources for more prominent protection.

Although the natural dyed textiles are promising to provide functional properties such as antimicrobial, UV protection and mosquito as well as moth repellence, still the stability-related issues with natural dyes also need to be significantly addressed. Various researches are being organised with this aspect. This stabilityrelated issue can be enhanced with proper knowledge of interaction of fabric natural dye and mordant future performance of natural dyes. Proper combination of dye, fabric and mordants help to enhance the wash stability. Different techniques like surface modification (plasma treatment and UV irradiation, etc.) and microencapsulation can be used to enhance the stability of the functional properties of dyes. This would further lead to a more stable functional property. Extraction- and application-related issues of natural dyes should also be sorted out. The whole life cycle of natural dyes requires different areas of science; thus, collaborative efforts are required for more prominent results in terms of colour as well as providing functional properties.

**Author details**

**219**

Deepti Pargai\*, Shahnaz Jahan and Manisha Gahlot

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

provided the original work is properly cited.

\*Address all correspondence to: pargai.deepti16@gmail.com

G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar, Uttarakhand, India

© 2020 The Author(s). Licensee IntechOpen. This chapter is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/ by/3.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium,

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

## **Author details**

Tannin is considered as a protective agent against microbes and UV rays. Antimicrobial and antioxidant properties of dyed wool fabric were observed to have

Presently the consumers become aware of hygienic healthy and protective lifestyle; hence there is a necessity of clothing with functional properties as it covers the major part of the body. The various changes in climate and environment require more protection against UV rays, microbes and insects protecting human from vector-borne diseases, and clothes do not only cover the modesty or basic requirement but also are more functional in terms of protection. Aesthetic as well as medicinal properties of natural dyes has been exploring since ancient time. The glory of natural dyes somewhat subdued after the invention of synthetic dye and presently with the increase of eco-consciousness. Various researches have been conducted on functional aspect of natural dyes, but still there is a need to find out

Although the natural dyed textiles are promising to provide functional properties such as antimicrobial, UV protection and mosquito as well as moth repellence, still the stability-related issues with natural dyes also need to be significantly addressed. Various researches are being organised with this aspect. This stabilityrelated issue can be enhanced with proper knowledge of interaction of fabric natural dye and mordant future performance of natural dyes. Proper combination of dye, fabric and mordants help to enhance the wash stability. Different techniques like surface modification (plasma treatment and UV irradiation, etc.) and microencapsulation can be used to enhance the stability of the functional properties of dyes. This would further lead to a more stable functional property. Extraction- and application-related issues of natural dyes should also be sorted out. The whole life cycle of natural dyes requires different areas of science; thus, collaborative efforts are required for more prominent results in terms of colour as well as providing

improved after application of tannin [90].

*Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*

the possible sources for more prominent protection.

**4. Conclusion**

*Hydrolysable tannins.*

**Figure 9.**

functional properties.

**218**

Deepti Pargai\*, Shahnaz Jahan and Manisha Gahlot G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar, Uttarakhand, India

\*Address all correspondence to: pargai.deepti16@gmail.com

© 2020 The Author(s). Licensee IntechOpen. This chapter is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/ by/3.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

## **References**

[1] Sen T, Barrow CJ, Deshmukh SK. Microbial pigments in the food industry —Challenges and the way forward. Frontiers in Nutrition. 2019;**6**:7. DOI: 10.3389/fnut.2019.00007

[2] Gokhale SB, Tatiya AU, Bakliwal SR, Fursule RA. Natural dye yielding plants in India. Natural Product Radiance. 2004;**3**(4):228-234

[3] Saxena S, Raja ASM. Natural dyes: Sources, chemistry, application and sustainability issues. In: Muthu S, editor. Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Singapore: Springer; 2014. DOI: 10.1007/978-981-287-065-0

[4] Hassaan MA, Nemr AE. Health and environmental impacts of dyes: Mini review. American Journal of Environmental Science and Engineering. 2017;**1**(3):64-67. DOI: 10.11648/j.ajese.20170103.11

[5] Chavan RB. Health and environment hazards of synthetic dyes. Textile Review Magazine. May 2013:1-6

[6] Kumar A, Chowdhury AKR. Eco-friendly dyes and dyeing. Advanced Materials and Technologies for Environmental Sciences. 2018;**2**(1): 145-176

[7] United States Environmental Protection Agency. A Guide to UV Index. 2004. Available from: https:// www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/ documents/uviguide.pdf

[8] Jose S, Nachimuthu S, Das S, Kumar A. Moth proofing of wool fabric using nano kaolinite. The Journal of Textile Institute. 2017;**109**(2):225-231. DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2017.1336857

[9] Liu Q, Meng X, Li Y, Zhao CN, Tang GY, Li HB. Antibacterial and antifungal activities of spices.

The International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2017;**18**(6):1283. DOI: 10.3390/ijms18061283

[18] Wells K. Wearing Naturally Dyed Clothes may Boost Health. 2019. Available from: http://timesofindia.ind

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

> Dyeing studies with henna and madder: A research on effect of tin (II) chloride mordant. Applied and Environmental Microbiology. 2014;**80**(21):6611-6619

[28] Pal A, Tripathi YC, Kumar R, Upadhyay L. Antibacterial efficacy of natural dye from Melia composita leaves and its application in sanitized and protective. Textiles Journal of Pharmacy

Research. 2016;**10**(4):154-159

31-46

267-270

[29] Ibrahim NA, El-Zairy WM, El-Zairy MR, Ghazal HA. Enhancing the UVprotection and antibacterial properties of polyamide-6 fabric by natural dyeing. Textiles and Light Industrial Science and Technology (TLIST). 2013;**2**(1):

[30] Haji A. Antibacterial dyeing of wool with natural cationic dye using metal

mordants. Materials Science (MEDŽIAGOTYRA). 2012;**18**(3):

[31] Lee YH, Hwang EK, Baek YM, Kim HD. Colorimetric assay and

wool fabrics dyed with peony, pomegranate, clove, Coptis chinensis and gallnut extract materials. Fibers and

Polymers. 2009;**17**(4):560-568

[32] AATCC 100-Assessment of Antibacterial Finishes on Textile

Materials. 2004

366-372

Textile Materials. 2004

antibacterial activity of cotton, silk, and

[33] AATCC 147. Parallel Streak Method. Antibacterial Activity Assessment of

[34] Feng XX, Zhang LL, Chen JY, Zhang JC. New insights into solar UV protective properties of natural dye. Journal of Cleaner Production. 2007;**15**:

[35] Svobodová A, Psotová J,

Walterová D. Natural phenolics in the prevention of UV-induced skin damage: A review. Biomedical Papers of the Medical Faculty of the University

[19] Vankar P. Chemistry of natural dyes. Resonance. October 2000:73-80. Available from: https://www.ias.ac.in/ article/fulltext/reso/005/10/0073-0080

[20] Malomo D, Abimbade AD, Oluwaseun AK, Eghareba O. Likely mechanism of dye adhesion on fabrics. In: Proceedings of 62nd ISERD International

Conference; Boston, USA; 2017

Microorganism. 2019. Available from: https://courses.lumenlearning.com

[22] Lowy F. Bacterial classification, structure and function. 2009;**44**(12): 977-983. Available from: http://www. columbia.edu/itc/hs/medical/pathoph

[23] Boryo DEA. The effect of microbes on textiles material: A review on the way out so far. The International Journal of Engineering and Science (IIJES).

[24] Seventekin N, Ucarci O. The damage caused by micro-organisms to cotton fabrics. Journal of Textile Institute. 1993;**84**(3):304-313

0119-9. Epub 2017 Jan 16

Farooq A, Wang Y, Wei W.

10.1007/s10570-018-1864-6

**221**

[25] Yusuf M, Shabbir M, Mohammad F. Natural colorants: Historical, processing and sustainable prospects. Natural Products and Bioprospecting. 2017;**7**(1): 123-145. DOI: 10.1007/s13659-017-

[26] Rehman F, Sanbhal N, Naveed T,

Antibacterial performance of Tencel fabric dyed with pomegranate peel extracted via ultrasonic method. Cellulose. 2018;**25**(7):4251-4260. DOI:

[27] Yusufa M, Shahida M, Khan MI, Khan SA, Khan MA, Mohammed F.

[21] Anonymous. Types of

ys/id/2009/introNotes.pdf

2013;**2**(8):09-13

iatimes.com

[10] Mariselvam R, Singh R, Kaliraja K. Antifungal activity of different natural dyes against traditional products affected fungal pathogens. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine. 2012; **2**(3):S1461-S1465. DOI: 10.1016/ S2221-1691(12)60438-9

[11] Przewoźna KS, Zimniewska M. Natural dyeing plants as a source of compounds protecting against UV radiation. Herba Polonica. 2009;**55**(3): 311-318

[12] Singh R, Jain A, Panwar S, Gupta D, Khare SK. Antimicrobial activity of some natural dyes. Dyes and Pigments. 2005;**66**(2):99-102

[13] Gupta D, Khare SK, laha A. Antimicrobial properties of natural dyes against gram negative *bacteria*. Coloration Technology. 2004;**120**(4):167-171. DOI: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2004.tb00224.x

[14] Hassan MM. In: Muthu S, editor. Handbook of Sustainable Luxury Textiles and Fashion. 1st ed. 211p. Singapore: Springer; 2015. DOI: 10.1007/978-981-287-633-1

[15] Chengaiah B, Rao KM, Kumar M, Alagusundaram M, Chetty CM. Medicinal importance of natural dye. International Journal of Pharm Tech Research. 2002;**2**(1):144-154

[16] Rani J, Avinashilingam PC. Eco Friendly Dyeing and Finishing on Bamboo Cotton Knitted Fabrics for Sportswear [thesis]. Coimbatore: Avinashilingam Institute for Home Science and Higher Education for Women; 2014

[17] Jayalakshmi I, Soudanyaa D. Effect of natural dyeing in bamboo material. Man-Made Textiles in India. 2015: 465-472

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

[18] Wells K. Wearing Naturally Dyed Clothes may Boost Health. 2019. Available from: http://timesofindia.ind iatimes.com

**References**

[1] Sen T, Barrow CJ, Deshmukh SK. Microbial pigments in the food industry —Challenges and the way forward. Frontiers in Nutrition. 2019;**6**:7. DOI:

*Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*

The International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2017;**18**(6):1283. DOI:

[10] Mariselvam R, Singh R, Kaliraja K. Antifungal activity of different natural dyes against traditional products affected fungal pathogens. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine. 2012; **2**(3):S1461-S1465. DOI: 10.1016/

[11] Przewoźna KS, Zimniewska M. Natural dyeing plants as a source of compounds protecting against UV radiation. Herba Polonica. 2009;**55**(3):

[12] Singh R, Jain A, Panwar S, Gupta D, Khare SK. Antimicrobial activity of some natural dyes. Dyes and Pigments.

Antimicrobial properties of natural dyes against gram negative *bacteria*. Coloration Technology. 2004;**120**(4):167-171. DOI: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2004.tb00224.x

[14] Hassan MM. In: Muthu S, editor. Handbook of Sustainable Luxury Textiles and Fashion. 1st ed. 211p. Singapore: Springer; 2015. DOI: 10.1007/978-981-287-633-1

[15] Chengaiah B, Rao KM, Kumar M, Alagusundaram M, Chetty CM. Medicinal importance of natural dye. International Journal of Pharm Tech

Research. 2002;**2**(1):144-154

Education for Women; 2014

465-472

[16] Rani J, Avinashilingam PC. Eco Friendly Dyeing and Finishing on Bamboo Cotton Knitted Fabrics for Sportswear [thesis]. Coimbatore: Avinashilingam Institute for Home Science and Higher

[17] Jayalakshmi I, Soudanyaa D. Effect of natural dyeing in bamboo material. Man-Made Textiles in India. 2015:

10.3390/ijms18061283

S2221-1691(12)60438-9

311-318

2005;**66**(2):99-102

[13] Gupta D, Khare SK, laha A.

[2] Gokhale SB, Tatiya AU, Bakliwal SR, Fursule RA. Natural dye yielding plants in India. Natural Product Radiance.

[3] Saxena S, Raja ASM. Natural dyes: Sources, chemistry, application and sustainability issues. In: Muthu S, editor. Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Singapore: Springer; 2014. DOI: 10.1007/978-981-287-065-0

[4] Hassaan MA, Nemr AE. Health and environmental impacts of dyes: Mini

Engineering. 2017;**1**(3):64-67. DOI: 10.11648/j.ajese.20170103.11

[6] Kumar A, Chowdhury AKR.

Materials and Technologies for Environmental Sciences. 2018;**2**(1):

[7] United States Environmental Protection Agency. A Guide to UV Index. 2004. Available from: https:// www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/

[8] Jose S, Nachimuthu S, Das S,

[9] Liu Q, Meng X, Li Y, Zhao CN, Tang GY, Li HB. Antibacterial and antifungal activities of spices.

Kumar A. Moth proofing of wool fabric using nano kaolinite. The Journal of Textile Institute. 2017;**109**(2):225-231. DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2017.1336857

documents/uviguide.pdf

145-176

**220**

[5] Chavan RB. Health and environment hazards of synthetic dyes. Textile Review Magazine. May 2013:1-6

Eco-friendly dyes and dyeing. Advanced

review. American Journal of Environmental Science and

10.3389/fnut.2019.00007

2004;**3**(4):228-234

[19] Vankar P. Chemistry of natural dyes. Resonance. October 2000:73-80. Available from: https://www.ias.ac.in/ article/fulltext/reso/005/10/0073-0080

[20] Malomo D, Abimbade AD, Oluwaseun AK, Eghareba O. Likely mechanism of dye adhesion on fabrics. In: Proceedings of 62nd ISERD International Conference; Boston, USA; 2017

[21] Anonymous. Types of Microorganism. 2019. Available from: https://courses.lumenlearning.com

[22] Lowy F. Bacterial classification, structure and function. 2009;**44**(12): 977-983. Available from: http://www. columbia.edu/itc/hs/medical/pathoph ys/id/2009/introNotes.pdf

[23] Boryo DEA. The effect of microbes on textiles material: A review on the way out so far. The International Journal of Engineering and Science (IIJES). 2013;**2**(8):09-13

[24] Seventekin N, Ucarci O. The damage caused by micro-organisms to cotton fabrics. Journal of Textile Institute. 1993;**84**(3):304-313

[25] Yusuf M, Shabbir M, Mohammad F. Natural colorants: Historical, processing and sustainable prospects. Natural Products and Bioprospecting. 2017;**7**(1): 123-145. DOI: 10.1007/s13659-017- 0119-9. Epub 2017 Jan 16

[26] Rehman F, Sanbhal N, Naveed T, Farooq A, Wang Y, Wei W. Antibacterial performance of Tencel fabric dyed with pomegranate peel extracted via ultrasonic method. Cellulose. 2018;**25**(7):4251-4260. DOI: 10.1007/s10570-018-1864-6

[27] Yusufa M, Shahida M, Khan MI, Khan SA, Khan MA, Mohammed F.

Dyeing studies with henna and madder: A research on effect of tin (II) chloride mordant. Applied and Environmental Microbiology. 2014;**80**(21):6611-6619

[28] Pal A, Tripathi YC, Kumar R, Upadhyay L. Antibacterial efficacy of natural dye from Melia composita leaves and its application in sanitized and protective. Textiles Journal of Pharmacy Research. 2016;**10**(4):154-159

[29] Ibrahim NA, El-Zairy WM, El-Zairy MR, Ghazal HA. Enhancing the UVprotection and antibacterial properties of polyamide-6 fabric by natural dyeing. Textiles and Light Industrial Science and Technology (TLIST). 2013;**2**(1): 31-46

[30] Haji A. Antibacterial dyeing of wool with natural cationic dye using metal mordants. Materials Science (MEDŽIAGOTYRA). 2012;**18**(3): 267-270

[31] Lee YH, Hwang EK, Baek YM, Kim HD. Colorimetric assay and antibacterial activity of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with peony, pomegranate, clove, Coptis chinensis and gallnut extract materials. Fibers and Polymers. 2009;**17**(4):560-568

[32] AATCC 100-Assessment of Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials. 2004

[33] AATCC 147. Parallel Streak Method. Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile Materials. 2004

[34] Feng XX, Zhang LL, Chen JY, Zhang JC. New insights into solar UV protective properties of natural dye. Journal of Cleaner Production. 2007;**15**: 366-372

[35] Svobodová A, Psotová J, Walterová D. Natural phenolics in the prevention of UV-induced skin damage: A review. Biomedical Papers of the Medical Faculty of the University

Palacky, Olomouc, Czech Republic. 2003;**147**(2):137-145

[36] Gupta D, Jain A, Panwar S. Anti-UV and anti-microbial properties of some natural dyes on cotton. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research. 2005;**30**: 190-195

[37] Mongkholrattanasit R, Cholachatpinyo A, Tubtimthai N, Nattadon R, Mai C. An evaluation of UV protection imparted by wool fabric dyed with natural dye from eucalyptus leaf. Chiang Mai Journal of Science. 2011;**41** (5.2):1208-1219

[38] Pisitsak P, Hutakamol J, Jeenapak S, Wanmanee P, Nuammaiphum J, Thongcharoen R. Natural dyeing of cotton with *Xylocarpus granatum* bark extract: Dyeing, fastness, and ultraviolet protection properties. Fibers and Polymers. 2016;**17**(4):560-568

[39] Křížová H, Wiener J. Comparison of UV protective properties of woollen fabrics dyed with yellow natural dyes from different plant sources. Environmental Sciences. 2016;**2**(7): 2454-9916

[40] Cao HM, Yang JF, Zhu GY. The performance of *Flos Caryophyllata* extract on black dyeing and UV resistance. Advanced Materials Research. 2013;**821**:564-568

[41] Griffoni D, Bacci L, Zipoli G, Carreras G, Baronti S, Sabatini F. Laboratory and outdoor assessment of UV protection offered by flax and hemp fabrics dyed with natural dyes. Photochemistry and Photobiology. 2009;**85**:313-320

[42] Hong K, Bae JH, Jin SR, Yang JS. Preparation and properties of multifunctionalized cotton fabrics treated by extracts of gromwell and gallnut. Cellulose. 2011;**19**(2):507-515. DOI: 10.1007/s10570-011-9613-0

[43] Alebeida OK, Taoa Z, Seedahmedc A. New approach for dyeing and UV protection properties of cotton fabric using natural dye extracted from henna leaves. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe. 2015;**23**(5):61-65

characteristics. The Journal of the Textile Institute. 2013;**104**(8):808-818

[51] Kim SH. Dyeing characteristics and UV protection property of green tea dyed cotton fabrics. Focusing on the effect of chitosan mordanting

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

> [58] Lee YH. Deodorizing function and antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with gallnut (*Galla Chinensis*) extract. Textile Research Journal. 2014;**85**(10):

[59] Lee YH, Kyung HE, Do KM. Colorimetric assay and antibacterial activity of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with peony, pomegranate, clove, *Coptis chinensis* and gallnut extract

[60] Anonymous. Medicinal Properties of 6 Natural Dyes. 2019. Available from: https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116104046/

[61] Hwang EK, Lee YH, Kim HD. Dyeing and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with various natural colorants. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers.

[62] Anonymous. Agriculture and food. Identifying and controlling clothes moths, carpet beetles and silverfish. 2018. Available from: https://www. agric.wa.gov.au/pest-insects/ identifying-and-controlling-clothesmoths-carpet-beetles-and-silver%EF%

[63] Basuk M, Behera J. A review on woollen cloth's moth and its remedies. Textile Today. March 2018. Available from: https://www.textiletoday.com. bd/review-woolen-cloths-moth-

[64] Carpet Industry and Exports. 2019. Available from: https://www.ibef.org/ exports/carpet-industry-in-india.aspx

[65] Shakyawa DB, Raja ASM, Kumar A, Pareek PK. Antimoth finishing treatment for woollens using tannin containing natural dyes. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research. 2015;**40**:200-202

[66] Kumar A, Pareek PK, Kadam VV, Shakyawar DB. Antimoth efficacy of

materials. 2009;**2**(1):10-21

1045-1054

12.pdf

**19**(6):12

AC%81sh

remedies/

condition. Fibers and Polymers. 2006;

[52] Pargai D, Jahan S. Application of *Vitis vinifera* microcapsules on cotton fabric: A potential to prevent UVinduced skin problems. Journal of Natural Fibers. July 2018:1-15. DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2018.1500334

[53] NPTEL. Objective of Testing. 2019. Available from: https://nptel.ac.in/

[54] AATCC-183:2004. Transmittance or blocking of erythemally weighted ultraviolet radiation through fabrics. In: Technical Manual of American Association of Textile Chemist and Colourist. USA; 2010;**85**:318-321

[55] Australia/New Zealand Standard (AS/NZS 4399:1996). AS/NZS 4399: 1996. Australian/New Zealand Standard® Sun protective clothing— Evaluation and classification. Published Jointly By: Standards Australia: The Crescent, Homebush Australia and Standards New Zealand: Level Wellington New Zealand

[56] Callewaert C, Maeseneire ED, Kerckhof FM, Verliefde A, Wiele TVD, Boon N, et al. Microbial odor profile of polyester and cotton clothes after a

Environmental Microbiology. 2014:**80** (21). DOI: 10.1128/AEM.01422-14

[57] Lee YH. Dyeing, fastness, and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with coffee sludge (*Coffea arabica L*.) extract. Journal of Applied Polymer Science.

fitness session. Applied and

2007;**103**(1):251-257

**223**

courses/116102029/2

**7**(3):255-261

[44] Vorabodee S, Chotima S, Jantip S, Potjanart S, Porntip SB. Effect of chitosan and turmeric dye on ultraviolet protection properties of polyester fabric. Applied Mechanics and Materials Academic Journal. 2014;**535**:658

[45] Gawish SM, Helmy HM, Ramadan AN, Farouk R, Mashaly HM. Eco-friendly multifunctional properties of cochineal and weld for simultaneous dyeing and finishing of proteinic fabrics. International Journal of Engineering and Technology. 2016;**8**(5): 2246-2253

[46] Jung JS. Study of fastness, UV protection, deodorization and antimicrobial properties of silk fabrics dyed with the liquids extracted from the gallnuts, areca nuts, and pomegranate peels. MATEC Web of Conferences. 2016;**49**:1-6

[47] Salah M. Antibacterial activity and UV protection property of some Egyptian cotton fabrics treated with aqueous extract from banana peel. International Journal of Clothing Science. 2012;**1**(1):1-6

[48] Pargai D, Gahlot M, Rani A. Ultraviolet protection properties of nettle fabric dyes with natural dyes. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research. 2016;**41**(4):418-425

[49] Gupta D, Ruchi UPF. Characteristics of natural dyes and textiles dyed with them. Colourage. 2007;**54**(4):75-80

[50] Chattopadhyay SN, Pan NC, ROY AK, Saxena S, Khan A. Development of natural dyed jute fabric with improved colour yield and UV protection

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

characteristics. The Journal of the Textile Institute. 2013;**104**(8):808-818

Palacky, Olomouc, Czech Republic.

[36] Gupta D, Jain A, Panwar S. Anti-UV and anti-microbial properties of some natural dyes on cotton. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research. 2005;**30**:

*Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*

[43] Alebeida OK, Taoa Z,

Seedahmedc A. New approach for dyeing and UV protection properties of cotton fabric using natural dye extracted from henna leaves. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe. 2015;**23**(5):61-65

[44] Vorabodee S, Chotima S, Jantip S, Potjanart S, Porntip SB. Effect of chitosan and turmeric dye on ultraviolet protection properties of polyester fabric. Applied Mechanics and Materials Academic Journal. 2014;**535**:658

Ramadan AN, Farouk R, Mashaly HM. Eco-friendly multifunctional properties of cochineal and weld for simultaneous dyeing and finishing of proteinic fabrics. International Journal of

Engineering and Technology. 2016;**8**(5):

[46] Jung JS. Study of fastness, UV protection, deodorization and

antimicrobial properties of silk fabrics dyed with the liquids extracted from the gallnuts, areca nuts, and pomegranate peels. MATEC Web of Conferences.

[47] Salah M. Antibacterial activity and UV protection property of some Egyptian cotton fabrics treated with aqueous extract from banana peel. International Journal of Clothing

[45] Gawish SM, Helmy HM,

2246-2253

2016;**49**:1-6

Science. 2012;**1**(1):1-6

[49] Gupta D, Ruchi UPF.

2007;**54**(4):75-80

[48] Pargai D, Gahlot M, Rani A. Ultraviolet protection properties of nettle fabric dyes with natural dyes. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research. 2016;**41**(4):418-425

Characteristics of natural dyes and textiles dyed with them. Colourage.

[50] Chattopadhyay SN, Pan NC, ROY AK, Saxena S, Khan A. Development of natural dyed jute fabric with improved

colour yield and UV protection

[38] Pisitsak P, Hutakamol J, Jeenapak S,

[39] Křížová H, Wiener J. Comparison of UV protective properties of woollen fabrics dyed with yellow natural dyes

Wanmanee P, Nuammaiphum J, Thongcharoen R. Natural dyeing of cotton with *Xylocarpus granatum* bark extract: Dyeing, fastness, and ultraviolet

protection properties. Fibers and Polymers. 2016;**17**(4):560-568

from different plant sources. Environmental Sciences. 2016;**2**(7):

[40] Cao HM, Yang JF, Zhu GY. The performance of *Flos Caryophyllata* extract on black dyeing and UV resistance. Advanced Materials Research. 2013;**821**:564-568

[41] Griffoni D, Bacci L, Zipoli G, Carreras G, Baronti S, Sabatini F. Laboratory and outdoor assessment of UV protection offered by flax and hemp

fabrics dyed with natural dyes. Photochemistry and Photobiology.

[42] Hong K, Bae JH, Jin SR, Yang JS. Preparation and properties of multifunctionalized cotton fabrics treated by extracts of gromwell and gallnut. Cellulose. 2011;**19**(2):507-515. DOI: 10.1007/s10570-011-9613-0

2009;**85**:313-320

**222**

2454-9916

2003;**147**(2):137-145

[37] Mongkholrattanasit R, Cholachatpinyo A, Tubtimthai N, Nattadon R, Mai C. An evaluation of UV protection imparted by wool fabric dyed with natural dye from eucalyptus leaf. Chiang Mai Journal of Science. 2011;**41**

190-195

(5.2):1208-1219

[51] Kim SH. Dyeing characteristics and UV protection property of green tea dyed cotton fabrics. Focusing on the effect of chitosan mordanting condition. Fibers and Polymers. 2006; **7**(3):255-261

[52] Pargai D, Jahan S. Application of *Vitis vinifera* microcapsules on cotton fabric: A potential to prevent UVinduced skin problems. Journal of Natural Fibers. July 2018:1-15. DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2018.1500334

[53] NPTEL. Objective of Testing. 2019. Available from: https://nptel.ac.in/ courses/116102029/2

[54] AATCC-183:2004. Transmittance or blocking of erythemally weighted ultraviolet radiation through fabrics. In: Technical Manual of American Association of Textile Chemist and Colourist. USA; 2010;**85**:318-321

[55] Australia/New Zealand Standard (AS/NZS 4399:1996). AS/NZS 4399: 1996. Australian/New Zealand Standard® Sun protective clothing— Evaluation and classification. Published Jointly By: Standards Australia: The Crescent, Homebush Australia and Standards New Zealand: Level Wellington New Zealand

[56] Callewaert C, Maeseneire ED, Kerckhof FM, Verliefde A, Wiele TVD, Boon N, et al. Microbial odor profile of polyester and cotton clothes after a fitness session. Applied and Environmental Microbiology. 2014:**80** (21). DOI: 10.1128/AEM.01422-14

[57] Lee YH. Dyeing, fastness, and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with coffee sludge (*Coffea arabica L*.) extract. Journal of Applied Polymer Science. 2007;**103**(1):251-257

[58] Lee YH. Deodorizing function and antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with gallnut (*Galla Chinensis*) extract. Textile Research Journal. 2014;**85**(10): 1045-1054

[59] Lee YH, Kyung HE, Do KM. Colorimetric assay and antibacterial activity of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with peony, pomegranate, clove, *Coptis chinensis* and gallnut extract materials. 2009;**2**(1):10-21

[60] Anonymous. Medicinal Properties of 6 Natural Dyes. 2019. Available from: https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116104046/ 12.pdf

[61] Hwang EK, Lee YH, Kim HD. Dyeing and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with various natural colorants. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers. **19**(6):12

[62] Anonymous. Agriculture and food. Identifying and controlling clothes moths, carpet beetles and silverfish. 2018. Available from: https://www. agric.wa.gov.au/pest-insects/ identifying-and-controlling-clothesmoths-carpet-beetles-and-silver%EF% AC%81sh

[63] Basuk M, Behera J. A review on woollen cloth's moth and its remedies. Textile Today. March 2018. Available from: https://www.textiletoday.com. bd/review-woolen-cloths-mothremedies/

[64] Carpet Industry and Exports. 2019. Available from: https://www.ibef.org/ exports/carpet-industry-in-india.aspx

[65] Shakyawa DB, Raja ASM, Kumar A, Pareek PK. Antimoth finishing treatment for woollens using tannin containing natural dyes. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research. 2015;**40**:200-202

[66] Kumar A, Pareek PK, Kadam VV, Shakyawar DB. Antimoth efficacy of

neem on woollen fabric. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research. 2016; **15**(2):272-277

[67] WHO. Mosquito Borne Diseases. 2015. Available from: https://www.who. int/neglected\_diseases/vector\_ecology/ mosquito-borne-diseases/en/

[68] Niang EHA, Bassene H, Fenollar F, Mediannikov O. Biological control of mosquito-borne diseases: The potential of Wolbachia-based interventions in an IVM. Framework Journal of Tropical Medicine. 2018;**2018**:15. Article ID: 1470459

[69] Rimpi SA. Protection and application of natural mosquito repellents cotton fabric through dyeing. International Journal for Innovative Research In Multidisciplinary Field. 2017;**3**(8):873-878

[70] Jajpura L, Saini M, Rangi A, Chhichholia K. A review on mosquito repellent finish for textiles using herbal extracts. International Journal of Engineering Sciences and Management Research. 2015;**2**(8):17-24

[71] Wahyuningsih S, Ramelan AH, Wardani DK, Aini FN, Sari PL, Tamtama BPN, et al. Indigo dye derived from *Indigofera tinctoria* as natural food colorant. IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering. 2017;**193**(1):012048. DOI: 10.1088/ 1757-899X/193/1/012048

[72] Olusola A, Emmanuel SE, Funmilola S. Extraction of indigo dye (powdered, form) from the leaf of *Indigofera tinctoria*. Dye and Textile Technology. 2012;**6**(1):137-143

[73] Jung JS. Dyeing properties and functionality of cotton and silk dyed with fermented indigo and fresh indigo. International Journal of Advances in Science Engineering and Technology. 2017;**5**(3):38-41

[74] Mongkhorattanasit R, Klaichoi C, Orawan M, Punrattanasin N, Sasivatchutikool N, Rungruangkitkrai N. Effect of ferrous sulfate to improve UV-protection property of cotton fabric dyed with natural indigo. In: Advanced Material Research. 2014; Vol. 1030– 1032. pp. 418-421

Sustainable Chemistry and Engineering.

*Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

> [90] Hong KH. Effects of tannin mordanting on coloring and

2018;**5**(33):1-11. DOI: 10.1186/

s40691-018-0151-3

functionalities of wool fabrics dyed with spent coffee grounds. Hong Fash Text.

antibacterial properties and UV. 2018;

[83] Parthiban M, Shrikrishnan MR, Kandhavadivu P. Sustainability in Fashion and Apparel. India: Woodhead

[84] ParthibanM, Srikrishnan MR, Kandhavadivu P. Sustainability in Fashion Apparel Challenge and

[85] Sahab AF, Waly A, Marie M, Elzoeerey WR, Elela RA. Studies on the antifungal activity of natural dyes and their application on textile materials. Der Pharmacia Lettre. 2016;**8**(17):66-72

[86] Khoo HE, Azlan A, Tang ST, Lim SM. Anthocyanidins and

anthocyanins: Colored pigments as food, pharmaceutical ingredients, and the potential health benefits. Food and Nutrition Research. 2017;**61**(1):1-7

[87] Grifoni D, Bacci L, Lonardo SD, Romani A. UV protective properties of cotton and flax fabrics dyed with multifunctional plant extracts. Dyes and

Pigments. 2014;**105**:89-96. DOI: 10.1016/j.dyepig.2014.01.027

Carotenoids functionality, sources, and processing by supercritical technology: A review. Journal of Chemistry. 2016;

[89] Hagerman AE, Riedl KM, Jones GA, Sovik KN, Ritchard NT, Hartzfeld PW, et al. High molecular weight plant polyphenolics (tannins) as biological antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 1998;**46**(5):1887-1890.

[88] Natália M, Ferreira SRS.

**2016**:16. Article ID: 3164312

DOI: 10.1021/jf970975b

**225**

Solutions. India: Woodhead Publishing;

[82] Mothaghi Z. An economical dyeing process for cotton and wool fabrics and improvement their

2017;**5**(11):0518-10526

Publishing; 2017. 226 p

**15**(6):777-788

2017. 226 p

[75] Samanta AK, Konar A. Dyeing of textiles with natural dyes. In: Kumbasar EK, editor. Natural Dyes. Crotia: Intechopen; 2011. 33p

[76] Tove A, Zhou Y, Guan J, Chen G, Perwuelz BN, Nierstrasz V. Bioactive and multifunctional textile using plantbased madder dye: Characterization of UV protection ability and antibacterial activity. Fibres and Polymers. 2017; **18**(11):2170-2175

[77] Mongkholrattanasit R, Rungruangkitkrai N, Tubtimthai N, Sasivatchutikool N. UV protection property of colorant from lac for silk fabric dyeing by cold pad-batch: The influence of metal mordants concentration. Advanced Materials Research. 2014;**884-885**:257-260. DOI: 10.4028/www.scientific.net/ AMR.884-885.257

[78] Vankar PS, Shukla D. New Trends in Natural Dyes for Textiles. India: Woodhead Publishing; 2017. 368p

[79] Alebeida OK, Taoa Z, Seedahmed AI. New approach for dyeing and UV protection properties of cotton fabric using natural dye extracted from henna leaves. 2015;**5**(113):60-65. DOI: 10.5604/12303666.1161758

[80] Panche AN, Diwan AD, Chandra SR. Flavonoids: An overview. Journal of Nutritional Science. 2016;**5**: e47. DOI: 10.1017/jns.2016.41

[81] Zhou Y, Tang RC. Natural flavonoid-functionalized silk fiber presenting antibacterial, antioxidant, and UV protection performance. ACS *Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933*

Sustainable Chemistry and Engineering. 2017;**5**(11):0518-10526

neem on woollen fabric. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research. 2016;

*Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments*

[74] Mongkhorattanasit R, Klaichoi C,

[75] Samanta AK, Konar A. Dyeing of

[76] Tove A, Zhou Y, Guan J, Chen G, Perwuelz BN, Nierstrasz V. Bioactive and multifunctional textile using plantbased madder dye: Characterization of UV protection ability and antibacterial activity. Fibres and Polymers. 2017;

textiles with natural dyes. In: Kumbasar EK, editor. Natural Dyes. Crotia: Intechopen; 2011. 33p

Sasivatchutikool N, Rungruangkitkrai N. Effect of ferrous sulfate to improve UV-protection property of cotton fabric dyed with natural indigo. In: Advanced Material Research. 2014; Vol. 1030–

Orawan M, Punrattanasin N,

1032. pp. 418-421

**18**(11):2170-2175

[77] Mongkholrattanasit R,

influence of metal mordants concentration. Advanced Materials Research. 2014;**884-885**:257-260. DOI:

10.4028/www.scientific.net/

[78] Vankar PS, Shukla D. New Trends in Natural Dyes for Textiles. India: Woodhead Publishing; 2017. 368p

[79] Alebeida OK, Taoa Z, Seedahmed AI. New approach for dyeing and UV protection properties of cotton fabric using natural dye extracted from henna

Chandra SR. Flavonoids: An overview. Journal of Nutritional Science. 2016;**5**:

leaves. 2015;**5**(113):60-65. DOI: 10.5604/12303666.1161758

[80] Panche AN, Diwan AD,

e47. DOI: 10.1017/jns.2016.41

[81] Zhou Y, Tang RC. Natural flavonoid-functionalized silk fiber presenting antibacterial, antioxidant, and UV protection performance. ACS

AMR.884-885.257

Rungruangkitkrai N, Tubtimthai N, Sasivatchutikool N. UV protection property of colorant from lac for silk fabric dyeing by cold pad-batch: The

[67] WHO. Mosquito Borne Diseases. 2015. Available from: https://www.who. int/neglected\_diseases/vector\_ecology/

[68] Niang EHA, Bassene H, Fenollar F, Mediannikov O. Biological control of mosquito-borne diseases: The potential of Wolbachia-based interventions in an IVM. Framework Journal of Tropical Medicine. 2018;**2018**:15. Article ID:

repellents cotton fabric through dyeing. International Journal for Innovative Research In Multidisciplinary Field.

mosquito-borne-diseases/en/

[69] Rimpi SA. Protection and application of natural mosquito

[70] Jajpura L, Saini M, Rangi A, Chhichholia K. A review on mosquito repellent finish for textiles using herbal extracts. International Journal of Engineering Sciences and Management

[71] Wahyuningsih S, Ramelan AH, Wardani DK, Aini FN, Sari PL,

Tamtama BPN, et al. Indigo dye derived from *Indigofera tinctoria* as natural food colorant. IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering. 2017;**193**(1):012048. DOI: 10.1088/

Research. 2015;**2**(8):17-24

1757-899X/193/1/012048

2017;**5**(3):38-41

**224**

[72] Olusola A, Emmanuel SE,

Funmilola S. Extraction of indigo dye (powdered, form) from the leaf of *Indigofera tinctoria*. Dye and Textile Technology. 2012;**6**(1):137-143

[73] Jung JS. Dyeing properties and functionality of cotton and silk dyed with fermented indigo and fresh indigo. International Journal of Advances in Science Engineering and Technology.

2017;**3**(8):873-878

**15**(2):272-277

1470459

[82] Mothaghi Z. An economical dyeing process for cotton and wool fabrics and improvement their antibacterial properties and UV. 2018; **15**(6):777-788

[83] Parthiban M, Shrikrishnan MR, Kandhavadivu P. Sustainability in Fashion and Apparel. India: Woodhead Publishing; 2017. 226 p

[84] ParthibanM, Srikrishnan MR, Kandhavadivu P. Sustainability in Fashion Apparel Challenge and Solutions. India: Woodhead Publishing; 2017. 226 p

[85] Sahab AF, Waly A, Marie M, Elzoeerey WR, Elela RA. Studies on the antifungal activity of natural dyes and their application on textile materials. Der Pharmacia Lettre. 2016;**8**(17):66-72

[86] Khoo HE, Azlan A, Tang ST, Lim SM. Anthocyanidins and anthocyanins: Colored pigments as food, pharmaceutical ingredients, and the potential health benefits. Food and Nutrition Research. 2017;**61**(1):1-7

[87] Grifoni D, Bacci L, Lonardo SD, Romani A. UV protective properties of cotton and flax fabrics dyed with multifunctional plant extracts. Dyes and Pigments. 2014;**105**:89-96. DOI: 10.1016/j.dyepig.2014.01.027

[88] Natália M, Ferreira SRS. Carotenoids functionality, sources, and processing by supercritical technology: A review. Journal of Chemistry. 2016; **2016**:16. Article ID: 3164312

[89] Hagerman AE, Riedl KM, Jones GA, Sovik KN, Ritchard NT, Hartzfeld PW, et al. High molecular weight plant polyphenolics (tannins) as biological antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 1998;**46**(5):1887-1890. DOI: 10.1021/jf970975b

[90] Hong KH. Effects of tannin mordanting on coloring and functionalities of wool fabrics dyed with spent coffee grounds. Hong Fash Text. 2018;**5**(33):1-11. DOI: 10.1186/ s40691-018-0151-3

**227**

Section 7

Eco Safe Synthtic Dyes

and Chemicals

## Section 7
