**4. Consumer acceptability of the sensory characteristics of VOO: An overview of literature data**

As previously stated, a virgin oil that is not subjected to any subsequent tecnological refining has a sensory profile standardized by a rich/robust/harmonized regolatory environment (Conte & Koprivnjak, 1997) strongly linked to the quality of the starting olives. Any damage to drupes, which can lead to hydrolysis or fermentation, produces molecules that remain in the product and irreversibly affect its quality. There is no way of correcting

The characteristic descriptors are identified according to the round-table method: the panel supervisor leads a discussion based on a series of samples of known origin that display the most important specific characteristics of the VOO undergoing preparatory analysis. When the descriptor recognition stage is completed, the panel supervisor opens discussions with panel members to establish a list of all descriptors that are considered to be most important and characteristic of the designation that is undergoing preparatory

Validation should take into account the possible natural variations that may occur in the oil from one crop year to the next. When the profile sheet is completed, tasters shall assess the intensity of perception of the descriptors cited in the profile sheet on the 10-cm scale used for commercial grading of oils. The D.O. authority shall fix the maximum and minimum limits of the median for each descriptor included in the profile sheet and shall establish the limits for the robust coefficient of variation of each descriptor. It shall then enter these values in the *IOOC spreadsheet folder-profile* (software) accompanying this method to define the intervals of the characteristic sensory profile of the designation

Most of the specifications for the designation of origin of oils before 2005 or those that have not undergone revisions after this date, do not refer to the method IOOC just explained, but to the use of a previous procedure (EEC Reg. 2568/1991) for sensory evaluation of the oils. In Figure 1, the profile sheet according to the old regulation for the commercial grading is shown (EEC Reg. 2568/1991). This method provides a partial description of flavour: tasters are requested to define the fruity type, green or ripe, and recognize the presence of attributes such as grass, leaf, apple and other fruits. For each attribute, a discreet score from 0 to 5 is assigned (0: absence of perception; 1: intensity slightly perceptible; 2: intensity light; 3: average intensity; 4: great intensity; 5: extreme intensity), and there are many positive attributes to evaluate in addition to defects. Tasters rate the overall grading by using a 9-point scale: 9 for oils with exceptional sensory characteristics, and 1 for products with the worst qualities. The mean score identifies the category. An oil could be classified as EVOO if it obtains a final score

In the case of specifications for the designation of origin of some D.O oils, which have not yet been reviewed according to the new IOOC regulation (IOOC, 2005), it is firstly necessary to verify that the sample has the characteristics provided in the extra virgin category using current methods (EC Reg. 640/08), and to subsequently analyze it according to the old profile sheet (EEC Reg. 2568/1991) to verify the presence of characteristic descriptors. The

As previously stated, a virgin oil that is not subjected to any subsequent tecnological refining has a sensory profile standardized by a rich/robust/harmonized regolatory environment (Conte & Koprivnjak, 1997) strongly linked to the quality of the starting olives. Any damage to drupes, which can lead to hydrolysis or fermentation, produces molecules that remain in the product and irreversibly affect its quality. There is no way of correcting

**4. Consumer acceptability of the sensory characteristics of VOO: An** 

(expressed as an average of the panel's judgement) of 6.5.

final score for the D.O must be at least 7, but can be even higher.

**overview of literature data** 

analysis.

of origin.

chemical and/or sensory defects in a virgin product. On the other hand, technological refining results in the loss of the superior quality of "extra virgin/virgin" oil, and the transition to a lower category with weaker sensory attributes. The difference in the overall quality between a virgin and a refined oil, the latter adjusted in both quality and the flavour, is not always correctly perceived by the consumer.

Generally, consumers appreciate what is familiar, what is strongly linked to the territory (tradition/origin) or to which they have a precise expectation (brand, other values) (Caporale et al., 2006, Costell et al., 2010). Furthermore, as demonstrated in a recent large study, people do not understand dietary fat, either the importance of the quality or the quantity needed for health and this generally results in consumers adhering to fat choices they are comfortable with (Diekman & Malcolm,2009). In the case of EVOO, for a correct perception of the overall quality the fruity (green or ripe) and bitter and pungent attributes should be perceived by consumers as "healthy" indicators of quality and genuine taste, linked to the raw oil and its richness in pungent and bitter minor components (phenols) (Carluccio et al, 2003). To achieve this purpose, consumers should be made capable, by research dissemination, to appreciate bitterness (primary taste of oil obtained from green olives or olives turning colour) and pungency (biting tactile sensations characteristic of oils produced at the start of the crop year, primarily from olives that are still unripe) (COI/T.20/Doc. no 22) as healthy substances related attributes.

By law, the virgin oil "ideal" sensory profile is quite simple and easy, the fruity attribute is universally recognized as the primary sensory characteristic, and the bitter and pungent aspects are reported as positive attributes (*CODEX STAN 33-1981*). However, due to the superficial knowledge in terms of fat quality, technology (virgin and refined) and sensory characteristics, consumers do not appear to practice an informed/univocal consumption of EVOO. In this regard, research on consumer behaviour has intensified in recent years, and some of the more salient findings are provided below.

A study in Turkey (Pehlivan & Yilmaz, 2010) comparing olive oils originating from different production systems (continuous, organic, stone pressed, refined) declared that, for a sample of 100 consumers, hedonic values of the refined samples were close to the values of the virgin samples. Similar findings were previously reported by Caporale et al (2006), by which consumers are able to differentiate EVOO on their characteristic sensory attributes, but buying intentions (blind test) of the refined samples were as high as the values for the virgin samples. Again, the sensory attributes of EVOO, even if perceived, did not seem to be drivers to purchase it.

In Italy, Caporale et al. (2006) demonstrated that information about origin creates a favourable hedonic expectation, with regards to specific sensory attributes, such as pungency and bitterness. This means that, if familiar with bitter/pungent oils, consumers can have high and positive expectations of bitter and pungency attributes as distinguishing characteristics of typical olive oils (i.e. *Coratina* cv.). To confirm this physiological opportunity to perceive pungent as a positive attribute can be cited an interesting paper on the unusual pungency of EVOO (Peyrot des Gachons et al., 2011), sensed almost exclusively in the throat, suggesting that it is, therefore, perhaps no coincidence if phenols with potent anti-inflammatory properties (oleocanthale, ibuprofen) also elicit such a localized/specific

Sensory Analysis of Virgin Olive Oil 125

restricted selected specific positive (fruity, bitter, pungent) attributes and defects

On the other hand, in 2005 the IOOC issued document COI/T.20/Doc. no 22 that provides specifics about the methods to be used for sensory assessment of EVOO when granting designation of origin (D.O.) status. The method contains a list of 23 direct or retronasal aromatic olfactory sensations, 2 (bitter, sweet) gustatory sensations, 2 tactile or kinesthetic sensations (fluidity/pungent) and a qualitative retronasal persistence. Even taking into account the recent development of sensory analysis, there is no other food that has such a rich/robust/harmonized regulatory environment regulated by the EU, International Olive

At present, origin, tradition and habits, more than sensory profile, are purchase drivers for EVOO and the real challenge for the future is improving consumer education in appreciating the foundamental attributes: fruity, together with taste and tactile sensations of phenols, functional and healthy substances naturally present in EVOO, respectively,

Therefore, nowadays, the key to provide the consumer a truly effective EVOO organoleptic knowledge is the worldwide dissemination of the three basic quality-related and "healthy"

The authors thank all tasters and the panel leader of the recognized professional panel at the

Andrewes, P.; Busch, J. L. H. C.; De Joode, T.; Groenewegen, A. & Alexandre, H. (2003).

Angerosa, F.; Di Giacinto, L. & Solinas, M. (1992). Influence of Dacus oleae infestation on

Angerosa, F.; Basti, C. & Vito, R. (1999). Virgin olive oil volatile compounds from

Angerosa, F.; Mostallino, R.; Basti, C.; Vito, R. & Serraiocco, A. (2000). Virgin olive oil

Angerosa F. (2002). Influence of volatile compounds on virgin olive oil quality evaluated by

volatile compounds. *Grasas y Aceites*, Vol. 43, pp. 134-142.

*Agriculture and Food Chemistry*, Vol. 47, pp. 836-839.

Sensory properties of virgin olive oil polyphenols: identification of deacetoxy ligstroside aglycon as a key contributor to pungency. *Journal of Agriculture and Food* 

flavor of oils, extracted from attacked olive fruits, by HPLC and HRGC analyses of

lipoxygenase pathway and characterization of some Italian cultivars. *Journal of* 

differentiation in relation to extraction methodologies. *Journal of the Science of Food* 

analytical approaches and sensor panels. *European Journal of Lipid Science and* 

(fusty/muddy sediment, winey-vinegary-acid-sour, metallic, rancid, others).

Oil Council and, as any food, Codex Alimentarius (FAO-OMS).

Department of Food Science, University of Bologna.

*Chemistry*, Vol. 51, pp. 1415-1420.

*and Agriculture*, Vol. 80, pp. 2190-2195

*Technology*, Vol. 104, pp. 639–660.

bitterness and pungency.

sensory attributes.

**7. References** 

**6. Acknowledgment** 

pungency. In this paper the authors ask what is the functional significance of the pungency to the human upper airways; they suggest that the posterior oral location of toxin and irritant detectors can protect against their intake either by inhalation or ingestion. But if the role of these ion channels, in general, is to protect tissue from harmful compounds, then it is a mystery how one (TRPA1-channel), mediating throat irritation of extra-virgin olive oils, came to be valued as a positive sensory attribute by those who consume them. The authors hypothesize that this pungency, distinguisheing particularly good olive oils in the European Union standards, similarly to other common food irritants (e.g., capsaicin, menthol, and so forth), also important positive components in many cuisines, turns, from a usually negative taste-kinesthetic sensation into positive, because the molecules that elicit it have a body healthy action. This theory requires considerably more investigations to be demonstrated, but is true that many compounds eliciting pungency are also linked to decreased risks of cancer, degenerative and cardiovascular diseases (Boyd et al., 2006; Peng & Li, 2010).

In the case of EVOO, but this is a very general question, the authors suggest that people can transform an inherently unpleasant sensation into a positive one, commonly experienced around the world when consuming pungent EVOO, because it has beneficial health effects (Peyrot des Gachons et al., 2009). If this theory is correct, it means that this kind of pungency colud be easily taught as a positive sensation quality-related, to the unfamiliar consumers.

Infact, it has been reported (Delgado & Guinard, 2011) in the USA, an emergent market, that in a study on 22 samples evaluated in blocks of 5, for the majority of 100 consumers bitterness and pungency were negative drivers of liking.

Descriptive analysis (Delgado & Guinard, 2011) has been proposed as a more effective method to provide a more detailed classification of EVOO; the final method consisted of 22 sensory attributes, some of which were original but infrequent (butter/green tea). But, in the case of EVOO, the challenge for the future does not appear descriptive analysis, which has had the most interesting developments for the characterization/valorization of monovarietal, PDO and PGI (Inarejos-García et al., 2010; Cecchi et al. 2011) with many targeted/robust attributes. Rather it concerns the fact that consumers are actually able to appreciate/perceive its fundamentals of sensory profile (fruity, bitter, pungent) as related to its quality.

Finally, the worldwide problem of two different qualities of EVOO, a high one (expensive) and a "legal" one (less flavour/cheaper), was also highlighted in a means-end chain study (Santosa & Guinard, 2011), explaining that the attributes associated with EVOO generally have high (more flavour, more expensive, smaller size) or, unfortunately, low (cheaper/on sale, big quantity/bulk size, less flavour) levels of product involvement.
