**5. Conclusion**

Sensory analysis of EVOO has been used for classification for more than 20 years. Since 1987, the "COI Panel test" has undergone many revisions, became law in 1991 in Europe and actualy COl/T.20/Doc. no. 15. is the method of analysis accepted by the Codex Alimentarius. Over the years, the profile sheet has undergone simplifications that have

pungency. In this paper the authors ask what is the functional significance of the pungency to the human upper airways; they suggest that the posterior oral location of toxin and irritant detectors can protect against their intake either by inhalation or ingestion. But if the role of these ion channels, in general, is to protect tissue from harmful compounds, then it is a mystery how one (TRPA1-channel), mediating throat irritation of extra-virgin olive oils, came to be valued as a positive sensory attribute by those who consume them. The authors hypothesize that this pungency, distinguisheing particularly good olive oils in the European Union standards, similarly to other common food irritants (e.g., capsaicin, menthol, and so forth), also important positive components in many cuisines, turns, from a usually negative taste-kinesthetic sensation into positive, because the molecules that elicit it have a body healthy action. This theory requires considerably more investigations to be demonstrated, but is true that many compounds eliciting pungency are also linked to decreased risks of cancer, degenerative and cardiovascular diseases (Boyd et al., 2006; Peng & Li, 2010).

In the case of EVOO, but this is a very general question, the authors suggest that people can transform an inherently unpleasant sensation into a positive one, commonly experienced around the world when consuming pungent EVOO, because it has beneficial health effects (Peyrot des Gachons et al., 2009). If this theory is correct, it means that this kind of pungency colud be easily taught as a positive sensation quality-related, to the

Infact, it has been reported (Delgado & Guinard, 2011) in the USA, an emergent market, that in a study on 22 samples evaluated in blocks of 5, for the majority of 100 consumers

Descriptive analysis (Delgado & Guinard, 2011) has been proposed as a more effective method to provide a more detailed classification of EVOO; the final method consisted of 22 sensory attributes, some of which were original but infrequent (butter/green tea). But, in the case of EVOO, the challenge for the future does not appear descriptive analysis, which has had the most interesting developments for the characterization/valorization of monovarietal, PDO and PGI (Inarejos-García et al., 2010; Cecchi et al. 2011) with many targeted/robust attributes. Rather it concerns the fact that consumers are actually able to appreciate/perceive its fundamentals of sensory profile (fruity, bitter, pungent) as related to

Finally, the worldwide problem of two different qualities of EVOO, a high one (expensive) and a "legal" one (less flavour/cheaper), was also highlighted in a means-end chain study (Santosa & Guinard, 2011), explaining that the attributes associated with EVOO generally have high (more flavour, more expensive, smaller size) or, unfortunately, low (cheaper/on

Sensory analysis of EVOO has been used for classification for more than 20 years. Since 1987, the "COI Panel test" has undergone many revisions, became law in 1991 in Europe and actualy COl/T.20/Doc. no. 15. is the method of analysis accepted by the Codex Alimentarius. Over the years, the profile sheet has undergone simplifications that have

sale, big quantity/bulk size, less flavour) levels of product involvement.

unfamiliar consumers.

its quality.

**5. Conclusion** 

bitterness and pungency were negative drivers of liking.

restricted selected specific positive (fruity, bitter, pungent) attributes and defects (fusty/muddy sediment, winey-vinegary-acid-sour, metallic, rancid, others).

On the other hand, in 2005 the IOOC issued document COI/T.20/Doc. no 22 that provides specifics about the methods to be used for sensory assessment of EVOO when granting designation of origin (D.O.) status. The method contains a list of 23 direct or retronasal aromatic olfactory sensations, 2 (bitter, sweet) gustatory sensations, 2 tactile or kinesthetic sensations (fluidity/pungent) and a qualitative retronasal persistence. Even taking into account the recent development of sensory analysis, there is no other food that has such a rich/robust/harmonized regulatory environment regulated by the EU, International Olive Oil Council and, as any food, Codex Alimentarius (FAO-OMS).

At present, origin, tradition and habits, more than sensory profile, are purchase drivers for EVOO and the real challenge for the future is improving consumer education in appreciating the foundamental attributes: fruity, together with taste and tactile sensations of phenols, functional and healthy substances naturally present in EVOO, respectively, bitterness and pungency.

Therefore, nowadays, the key to provide the consumer a truly effective EVOO organoleptic knowledge is the worldwide dissemination of the three basic quality-related and "healthy" sensory attributes.
