**3. Sensory methodology for evaluating the quality of VOO: Basic concepts**

A sensory codified methodology for virgin olive oils, known as the "COI Panel test", represents the most valuable approach to evaluate the sensory characteristics of VOO. The use of statistical procedures to analyze data from assessors' evaluation provides results that can be trusted as well as methods usually adopted in scientific fields. The purpose of this international method is to standardize procedures for assessing the organoleptic characteristics of VOO, and to establish the methodology for its classification. This methodology, incorporated into regulations of the European Union since 1991, uses, as an analysis tool, a group of 8-12 persons selected in a controlled manner, who are suitably trained to identify and measure the intensity of positive and negative sensations (EEC Reg. 2568/91).

A collection of methods and standards has been adopted by the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC or COI) for sensory analysis of olive oils. These documents (IOOC/T.20/Doc. 4/rev.1 and IOOC/T.20/Doc.15/rev.2) describe the general and specific terms that tasters use. Part of the vocabulary is common to sensory analysis of all foods (general vocabulary), while a specific vocabulary has been developed *ad hoc* and established by sensory

producing volatile compounds responsible for an unpleasant muddy odour by butyric fermentation. The filtration of newly-produced oil can avoid this phenomenon. It is known (Fregapane et al., 2006; Mendez & Falque, 2007; Lozano-Sanchez et al., 2010) that EVOO has a low amount of water, and for this reason it can be considered as a water-in-oil emulsion

The orientation of phenolic compounds in the oil-water interface and the active surface of water droplets can protect against the oxidation of oil. According to some researchers (Tsimidou et al., 2004; Gómez-Caravaca et al., 2007), the stability of unfiltered samples is significantly higher than that of the corresponding filtered oils. This coincides with a higher total phenolic content in unfiltered oils due to a greater amount of emulsified water. On the other hand, higher water levels are expected to favour enzymatic catalysis, including lipase, lipoxygenase and polyphenol oxidase activities. Thus, a more rapid oxidation of unfiltered oil is expected. Some authors (Montedoro et al., 1993) observed that hydrolytic processes

Lipid oxidation is an inevitable process that begins immediately after oil extraction and leads to a deterioration that becomes increasingly problematic during oil storage. The presence of a rancid defect, typical off-flavour for the fatty matrices, can be avoided or substantially slowed. The most advanced oxidation stages are characterized by the complete disappearance of compounds arising from the LOX cascade and by very high concentrations of saturated and unsaturated aldehydes together with unsaturated hydrocarbons, furans and ketones that contribute mainly to the rancid defect because of their low odour thresholds (Guth & Grosch, 1990; Morales et al., 1997; Bendini et al., 2009). To avoid the rancid perception, it is fundamental to control factors that promote lipid oxidation. These include a decrease in the availability of oxygen, the protection of the oil from light and storage at a temperature of 12-14°C. Before bottling, it is advisable to maintain the oil in stainless steel tanks under an inert gas such as nitrogen equipped with devices that

**3. Sensory methodology for evaluating the quality of VOO: Basic concepts**  A sensory codified methodology for virgin olive oils, known as the "COI Panel test", represents the most valuable approach to evaluate the sensory characteristics of VOO. The use of statistical procedures to analyze data from assessors' evaluation provides results that can be trusted as well as methods usually adopted in scientific fields. The purpose of this international method is to standardize procedures for assessing the organoleptic characteristics of VOO, and to establish the methodology for its classification. This methodology, incorporated into regulations of the European Union since 1991, uses, as an analysis tool, a group of 8-12 persons selected in a controlled manner, who are suitably trained to identify and measure the intensity of positive and negative sensations (EEC Reg.

A collection of methods and standards has been adopted by the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC or COI) for sensory analysis of olive oils. These documents (IOOC/T.20/Doc. 4/rev.1 and IOOC/T.20/Doc.15/rev.2) describe the general and specific terms that tasters use. Part of the vocabulary is common to sensory analysis of all foods (general vocabulary), while a specific vocabulary has been developed *ad hoc* and established by sensory

occurr in parallel with oxidation during long term storage.

periodically eliminate sediments from the bottom of the tank.

(Koidis et al., 2008)

2568/91).

experts of IOOC. In addition, the official method (IOOC/T.20/Doc.5/rev.1 and IOOC/T.20/Doc.14/rev.2) includes precise recording of the correct tasting temperature, as well as the dimensions and colour of the tasting glass and characteristics of the test room.

The panel leader is the person responsible for selecting, training and monitoring tasters to ascertain their level of aptitude according to (IOOC/T.20/Doc.14/rev.2). The number of candidates is generally greater than that needed in order to select people that have a grater sensitivity and discrimination capability. Screening criteria of candidates are founded on sensory capacity, but also on some personal characteristics of candidates. Given this, the panel leader will personally interview a large number of candidates to become familiar with their personality and understand habits, hobbies, and interest in the food field. He uses this information to screen candidates and rejects those who show little interest, are not readily available or who are incapable of expressing themselves clearly.

The determination of the detection threshold of the group of candidates for characteristic attributes is necessary because the "threshold concentration" is a point of reference common to a "normal group" and may be used to form homogeneous panels on the basis of olfactory-gustatory sensitivity.

A selection of tasters is made by the intensity rating method, as described by Gutiérrez Rosales (Gutiérrez Rosales et al., 1984). A series of 12 samples is prepared by diluting a VOO characterized by a very high intensity of a given attribute in an odourless and tasteless medium (refined oil or paraffin). The panel leader sends out the candidate, removes one of the 12 tasting glasses from the series, and places the remaining together; the candidate is called back in the room and is asked to correctly replace the testing glass withdrawn from the series by comparing the intensity of this last with that of the others. The test is carried out for fusty, rancid, winey and bitter attributes to verify the discriminating capacity of the candidate on the entire scale of intensities.

The stage training of assessors is necessary to familiarize tasters with the specific sensory methodology, to heighten individual skill in recognizing, identifying and quantifying the sensory attributes and to improve sensitivity and retention with regards to the various attributes considered, so that the end result is precise and consistent. In addition, they learn to use a profile sheet.

The maintenance of the panel is made through continuous training over all duration of life of the same panel, the check of the sensory acuity of tasters, and exercises that allow the measurement of the panel performance.

Every year, all panels must assess a number of reference samples in order to verify the reliability of the results obtained and to harmonize the perception criteria; they must also update the Member State on their activity and on composition changes of their group.

#### **3.1 Evolution of sensory methodology: From old to new**

A method for the organoleptic evaluation of olive oils was introduced in the Regulation (EEC) No 2568/91, Annex XII, that is inspired by the COl/T.20/Doc. no.15, published in 1987. In the profile sheet of EEC Reg. 2568/91, a number of positive attributes and defects were evaluated, giving each a score from 0 to 5 (Figure 1).

Sensory Analysis of Virgin Olive Oil 117

Fig. 2. Profile sheet for VOO assessment currently adopted by the EU (EC Reg. 796/02).

Drawing on experience, the International Olive Oil Council has devised a new method of organoleptic assessment of VOOs (Decision Dec-21/95-V/07) that is simpler and more reliable than that in EEC Reg. 2568/91. In particular, the EC Reg. 796/2002 introduced a reduction of the attributes of the old profile sheet, asking tasters to consider only the defects of the oil (fusty, mustiness/humidity, winey/vinegary, muddy sediment, metallic, rancid and others) and only the three most important positive attributes (fruity, pungent and bitter). The most important innovation of EC Reg. 796/2002 is the use of continuous scales, from 0 to 10 cm, for evaluating the intensity of perception of the different attributes (positive and negative), as reported in Figure 2. In this way, tasters are free to evaluate the intensity of each attribute by ticking the linear-scale, without having a prefixed choice (as with the discrete scale of EEC Reg. 2568/91, see Figure 1).



Drawing on experience, the International Olive Oil Council has devised a new method of organoleptic assessment of VOOs (Decision Dec-21/95-V/07) that is simpler and more reliable than that in EEC Reg. 2568/91. In particular, the EC Reg. 796/2002 introduced a reduction of the attributes of the old profile sheet, asking tasters to consider only the defects of the oil (fusty, mustiness/humidity, winey/vinegary, muddy sediment, metallic, rancid and others) and only the three most important positive attributes (fruity, pungent and bitter). The most important innovation of EC Reg. 796/2002 is the use of continuous scales, from 0 to 10 cm, for evaluating the intensity of perception of the different attributes (positive and negative), as reported in Figure 2. In this way, tasters are free to evaluate the intensity of each attribute by ticking the linear-scale, without having a prefixed choice (as with the

Fig. 1. Profile sheet for EVOO used for designation of origin (EEC Reg. 2568/91, annex XII).

discrete scale of EEC Reg. 2568/91, see Figure 1).


Fig. 2. Profile sheet for VOO assessment currently adopted by the EU (EC Reg. 796/02).

Sensory Analysis of Virgin Olive Oil 119

The official profile sheet intended for use by tasters, shown in Figure 3 (EC Reg. 640/08), is quite simple and is formed by an upper section for evaluation of the intensity of defects, and

Fig. 3. Profile sheet for VOO assessment currently adopted by the EU (EEC Reg. 640/08).

Each attribute is calculated, and the median value of each is used to classify the oil according to the median of the defect perceived with greatest intensity and the median for "fruity". It is important to remember that the value of the robust variation coefficient for this negative attribute must be no greater than 20%.

The classification of olive oils, according to sensory attributes, has also undergone evolution. According to EC Reg. 796/2002, oils are classified as:


Since November 2003, categories c) and d) have been replaced by (c) "lampante olive oil": the median of defects is above 2.5, or the median of the defects is not above 2.5 and the median for "fruity" is 0.

EC Reg. 640/08 introduced a new upper limit of defect for discriminating between virgin and defective oils: in particular, the evaluation of the median defect ('2.5') was replaced by '3.5'. An important innovation of Reg. 640/08 was also the grouping in only one negative attribute of two different defects: fusty and muddy sediment.

A revised method for the organoleptic assessment of VOO was adopted by the IOOC in November 2007 (Decision No DEC-21/95-V/2007, 16 November 2007) and adopted by the European Community with EC Reg. 640/2008. This revision updated the descriptions of the positive and negative attributes of VOO and the method. It also amended the maximum limit for the perception of defects in VOO. The IOOC's revised method for the organoleptic assessment of VOO also specifies the conditions for the optional use, on labels, of certain terms and expressions relating to the organoleptic characteristics of VOO (optional terminology for labelling purposes).

The most recent change is Decision No Dec-23/98-V/2010 of the IOOC, which defined a new method for assessing the organoleptic properties of VOO and to establish its classification on the basis of those characteristics (IOOC/T.20/Doc. No 15/Rev. 3).

#### **3.2 The method for assigning commercial class: The official profile-sheet and expression of results**

The organoleptic assessment of VOO is officially regulated in Europe by a Commission Regulation (EC Reg. 640/2008). This regulation describes the procedures for assessing the organoleptic characteristics of VOOs, the method for classification according to sensory characteristics, the specific vocabulary for sensory analysis of VOOs, including positive and negative attributes, and the optional terminology for labelling purposes. The selection, training and monitoring of skilled VOO tasters, the skills and responsibilities of the panel leader, the specific characteristics of the glass for oil tasting and the test room were also considered, according to previous regulations and IOOC documents (IOOC, 2007 and 2010).

Each attribute is calculated, and the median value of each is used to classify the oil according to the median of the defect perceived with greatest intensity and the median for "fruity". It is important to remember that the value of the robust variation coefficient for this

The classification of olive oils, according to sensory attributes, has also undergone evolution.

a. extra virgin olive oil: the median of the defects is 0, and the median for "fruity" is above 0; b. virgin olive oil: the median of the defects is above 0, but not above 2.5 and the median

c. ordinary virgin olive oil: the median of the defects is above 2.5, but not above 6.0, or the

Since November 2003, categories c) and d) have been replaced by (c) "lampante olive oil": the median of defects is above 2.5, or the median of the defects is not above 2.5 and the

EC Reg. 640/08 introduced a new upper limit of defect for discriminating between virgin and defective oils: in particular, the evaluation of the median defect ('2.5') was replaced by '3.5'. An important innovation of Reg. 640/08 was also the grouping in only one negative

A revised method for the organoleptic assessment of VOO was adopted by the IOOC in November 2007 (Decision No DEC-21/95-V/2007, 16 November 2007) and adopted by the European Community with EC Reg. 640/2008. This revision updated the descriptions of the positive and negative attributes of VOO and the method. It also amended the maximum limit for the perception of defects in VOO. The IOOC's revised method for the organoleptic assessment of VOO also specifies the conditions for the optional use, on labels, of certain terms and expressions relating to the organoleptic characteristics of VOO (optional

The most recent change is Decision No Dec-23/98-V/2010 of the IOOC, which defined a new method for assessing the organoleptic properties of VOO and to establish its

The organoleptic assessment of VOO is officially regulated in Europe by a Commission Regulation (EC Reg. 640/2008). This regulation describes the procedures for assessing the organoleptic characteristics of VOOs, the method for classification according to sensory characteristics, the specific vocabulary for sensory analysis of VOOs, including positive and negative attributes, and the optional terminology for labelling purposes. The selection, training and monitoring of skilled VOO tasters, the skills and responsibilities of the panel leader, the specific characteristics of the glass for oil tasting and the test room were also considered, according to previous regulations and IOOC documents (IOOC,

classification on the basis of those characteristics (IOOC/T.20/Doc. No 15/Rev. 3).

**3.2 The method for assigning commercial class: The official profile-sheet and** 

median of the defects is not above 2.5 and the median for "fruity" is 0;

d. lampante virgin olive oil: the median of the defects is above 6.0.

attribute of two different defects: fusty and muddy sediment.

negative attribute must be no greater than 20%.

for "fruity" is above 0;

median for "fruity" is 0.

terminology for labelling purposes).

**expression of results** 

2007 and 2010).

According to EC Reg. 796/2002, oils are classified as:

The official profile sheet intended for use by tasters, shown in Figure 3 (EC Reg. 640/08), is quite simple and is formed by an upper section for evaluation of the intensity of defects, and


Fig. 3. Profile sheet for VOO assessment currently adopted by the EU (EEC Reg. 640/08).

Sensory Analysis of Virgin Olive Oil 121

b. the term "well balanced" may be used when the oil does not display a lack of balance, which is defined as the smell, taste and feel that the oil has when the median of the *bitter* and/or *pungent* attributes is two points higher than the median of its *fruitiness*; c. the term "mild oil" may be used when the medians of the *bitter* and *pungent* attributes

**3.3 Method for organoleptic assessment of EVOO to assign designation of origin:** 

In 2005, the IOOC issued a document on methods to be used for the organoleptic assessment of EVOO for granting designation of origin (D.O.) status (IOOC/T.20/Doc. no 22). This document declared that the D.O. authority shall select the characteristic descriptors of the designation of origin (10 at the most) from those defined and reported in Table 1, and shall

**Citrus fruit** Olfactory sensation reminiscent of that of citrus fruit (lemon,orange, bergamot, mandarin and grapefruit)

**Flowers** Complex olfactory sensation generally reminiscent of the odour of flours, also known as floral

**Green** Complex olfactory sensation reminiscent of the typical odour of fruit before it ripens **Greenly fruity** Olfactory sensation typical of oils obtained from olives that have been harvested before or during colour change

**Ripely fruity** Olfactory sensation typical of oils obtained from olives that have been harvested when fully ripe **Soft fruit** Olfactory sensation typical of soft fruit: blackberries,raspberries, bilberries, blackcurrants and redcurrants

**Vanilla** Olfactory sensation of natural dried vanilla powder or pods,different from the sensation of vanillin

**Bitter** Characteristic taste of oil obtained from green olives or olives turning colour; it defines the primary taste associated with

**"Sweet"** Complex gustatory-kinaesthetic sensation characteristic of oil obtained from olives that have reached full maturity

**Fluidity** Kinaesthetic characteristics of the rheological properties of the oil, the set of which are capable of stimulating the

**Pungent** Biting tactile sensation characteristic of oils produced at the start of the crop year, primarily from olives that are still

**Retronasal persistence** Length of time that retronasal sensations persist after the sip of olive oil is no longer in the mouth

**Gustatory sensations**

aqueous solutions of substances like quinine and caffeine

**Qualitative retronasal sensation**

**Tactile or kinaesthetic sensations**

mechanical receptors located in the mouth during the test

unripe

**Exotic fruit** Olfactory sensation reminiscent of the characteristic odours of exotic fruit (pineapple, banana, passion fruit, mango,

**Direct or retronasal aromatic olfactory sensations**

are 2 or less.

**Sensory profile and data processing** 

incorporate them into the profile sheet of the method.

**Almond** Olfactory sensation reminiscent of fresh almonds **Apple** Olfactory sensation reminiscent of the odour of fresh apples

**Camomile** Olfactory sensation reminiscent of that of camomile flowers

**Eucalyptus** Olfactory sensation typical of Eucalyptus leaves

**Fig leaf** Olfactory sensation typical of fig leaves

**Grass** Olfactory sensation typical of freshly mown grass **Green pepper** Olfactory sensation of green peppercorns

**Herbs** Olfactory sensation reminiscent of that of herbs **Olive leaf** Olfactory sensation reminiscent of the odour of fresh olive leaves **Pear** Olfactory sensation typical of fresh pears **Pine kernel** Olfactory sensation reminiscent of the odour of fresh pine kernels

**Sweet pepper** Olfactory sensation reminiscent of fresh sweet red or green peppers **Tomato** Olfactory sensation typical of tomato leaves

**Walnut** Olfactory sensation typical of shelled walnuts

Table 1. List of descriptors for D.O. of EVOO.

**Artichoke** Olfactory sensation of artichokes

a lower part for the evaluation of the three most important positive sensory attributes (fruity, bitter, pungent). Tasters have to smell the sample, taste the oil (overall retronasal olfactory, gustatory and tactile sensations) and evaluate the intensity with which they perceive each of the negative and positive attributes on the 10-cm scale. If a taster identifies greenly or ripely as fruity attributes, the correct options must be indicated in the profile sheet. Green fruitiness is a characteristic of the oil which is reminiscent of green olives, dependent on the variety of the olive and coming from green, sound, fresh olives. Ripe fruitness is reminiscent of ripe fruit. If any negative attributes not listed in the upper section of the profile are perceived, the taster records them under the "others" heading, using the descriptors among those in the specific vocabulary for the sensory analysis of olive oils (IOOC/T.20/Doc. 4/rev.1).

The panel leader collects the profile sheets and elaborates the results by a statistical approach. In particular, the medians of the greatest perceived defect and fruity attribute are calculated. According to these two parameters, the oil can be graded in different quality categories. Such values are expressed to one decimal place, and the value of the robust coefficient of variation which defines them shall be no greater than 20%. As already mentioned, the classification of the oil is carried out by comparing the medians of the defects and the fruity attribute with the reference ranges established by EC Reg 640/08 for the different categories:


The panel leader can also state that the oil is characterized by greenly or ripely fruity attributes if at least 50% of the panel agrees.

Actually the most important result for sensory analysis of VOO is to identify the presence of defects instead of evaluating the positive attributes, in agreement with the aim of such an analysis, which is essentially to classify the product in different commercial classes.

#### **3.2.1 Optional terminology for labelling purposes**

Upon request, the panel head may certify that an oil complies with the definitions and ranges that correspond to the following adjectives, according to the intensity and perception of attributes:

	- i. the term "intense" may be used when the median of the attribute is greater than 6;
	- ii. the term "medium" may be used when the median of the attribute is between 3 and 6;
	- iii. the term "light" may be used when the median of the attribute is less than 3;
	- iv. the attributes in question may be used without the adjectives given in points (i), (ii) and (iii) when the median of the attribute is 3 or more;

a lower part for the evaluation of the three most important positive sensory attributes (fruity, bitter, pungent). Tasters have to smell the sample, taste the oil (overall retronasal olfactory, gustatory and tactile sensations) and evaluate the intensity with which they perceive each of the negative and positive attributes on the 10-cm scale. If a taster identifies greenly or ripely as fruity attributes, the correct options must be indicated in the profile sheet. Green fruitiness is a characteristic of the oil which is reminiscent of green olives, dependent on the variety of the olive and coming from green, sound, fresh olives. Ripe fruitness is reminiscent of ripe fruit. If any negative attributes not listed in the upper section of the profile are perceived, the taster records them under the "others" heading, using the descriptors among those in the specific vocabulary for the sensory analysis of olive oils

The panel leader collects the profile sheets and elaborates the results by a statistical approach. In particular, the medians of the greatest perceived defect and fruity attribute are calculated. According to these two parameters, the oil can be graded in different quality categories. Such values are expressed to one decimal place, and the value of the robust coefficient of variation which defines them shall be no greater than 20%. As already mentioned, the classification of the oil is carried out by comparing the medians of the defects and the fruity attribute with the reference ranges established by EC Reg 640/08 for

1. Extra virgin olive oil: the median of the defects is 0 and the median of the fruity

2. Virgin olive oil: the median of the defects is above 0, but not more than 3.5, and the

3. Lampante olive oil: the median of the defects is above 3.5, or the median of the defects

The panel leader can also state that the oil is characterized by greenly or ripely fruity

Actually the most important result for sensory analysis of VOO is to identify the presence of defects instead of evaluating the positive attributes, in agreement with the aim of such an

Upon request, the panel head may certify that an oil complies with the definitions and ranges that correspond to the following adjectives, according to the intensity and perception

a. for each of the positive attributes mentioned (*fruity* — whether *green* or *ripe* — *pungent* 

iii. the term "light" may be used when the median of the attribute is less than 3; iv. the attributes in question may be used without the adjectives given in points (i), (ii)

and (iii) when the median of the attribute is 3 or more;

i. the term "intense" may be used when the median of the attribute is greater than 6; ii. the term "medium" may be used when the median of the attribute is between 3

analysis, which is essentially to classify the product in different commercial classes.

is not more than 3.5 and the median of the fruity attribute is 0.

(IOOC/T.20/Doc. 4/rev.1).

the different categories:

of attributes:

or *bitter*):

and 6;

attribute is above 0;

median of the fruity attribute is above 0;

**3.2.1 Optional terminology for labelling purposes** 

attributes if at least 50% of the panel agrees.


#### **3.3 Method for organoleptic assessment of EVOO to assign designation of origin: Sensory profile and data processing**

In 2005, the IOOC issued a document on methods to be used for the organoleptic assessment of EVOO for granting designation of origin (D.O.) status (IOOC/T.20/Doc. no 22). This document declared that the D.O. authority shall select the characteristic descriptors of the designation of origin (10 at the most) from those defined and reported in Table 1, and shall incorporate them into the profile sheet of the method.


Table 1. List of descriptors for D.O. of EVOO.

Sensory Analysis of Virgin Olive Oil 123

chemical and/or sensory defects in a virgin product. On the other hand, technological refining results in the loss of the superior quality of "extra virgin/virgin" oil, and the transition to a lower category with weaker sensory attributes. The difference in the overall quality between a virgin and a refined oil, the latter adjusted in both quality and the flavour,

Generally, consumers appreciate what is familiar, what is strongly linked to the territory (tradition/origin) or to which they have a precise expectation (brand, other values) (Caporale et al., 2006, Costell et al., 2010). Furthermore, as demonstrated in a recent large study, people do not understand dietary fat, either the importance of the quality or the quantity needed for health and this generally results in consumers adhering to fat choices they are comfortable with (Diekman & Malcolm,2009). In the case of EVOO, for a correct perception of the overall quality the fruity (green or ripe) and bitter and pungent attributes should be perceived by consumers as "healthy" indicators of quality and genuine taste, linked to the raw oil and its richness in pungent and bitter minor components (phenols) (Carluccio et al, 2003). To achieve this purpose, consumers should be made capable, by research dissemination, to appreciate bitterness (primary taste of oil obtained from green olives or olives turning colour) and pungency (biting tactile sensations characteristic of oils produced at the start of the crop year, primarily from olives that are still unripe) (COI/T.20/Doc. no 22) as healthy substances related

By law, the virgin oil "ideal" sensory profile is quite simple and easy, the fruity attribute is universally recognized as the primary sensory characteristic, and the bitter and pungent aspects are reported as positive attributes (*CODEX STAN 33-1981*). However, due to the superficial knowledge in terms of fat quality, technology (virgin and refined) and sensory characteristics, consumers do not appear to practice an informed/univocal consumption of EVOO. In this regard, research on consumer behaviour has intensified in recent years, and

A study in Turkey (Pehlivan & Yilmaz, 2010) comparing olive oils originating from different production systems (continuous, organic, stone pressed, refined) declared that, for a sample of 100 consumers, hedonic values of the refined samples were close to the values of the virgin samples. Similar findings were previously reported by Caporale et al (2006), by which consumers are able to differentiate EVOO on their characteristic sensory attributes, but buying intentions (blind test) of the refined samples were as high as the values for the virgin samples. Again, the sensory attributes of EVOO, even if perceived, did not seem to be

In Italy, Caporale et al. (2006) demonstrated that information about origin creates a favourable hedonic expectation, with regards to specific sensory attributes, such as pungency and bitterness. This means that, if familiar with bitter/pungent oils, consumers can have high and positive expectations of bitter and pungency attributes as distinguishing characteristics of typical olive oils (i.e. *Coratina* cv.). To confirm this physiological opportunity to perceive pungent as a positive attribute can be cited an interesting paper on the unusual pungency of EVOO (Peyrot des Gachons et al., 2011), sensed almost exclusively in the throat, suggesting that it is, therefore, perhaps no coincidence if phenols with potent anti-inflammatory properties (oleocanthale, ibuprofen) also elicit such a localized/specific

is not always correctly perceived by the consumer.

some of the more salient findings are provided below.

attributes.

drivers to purchase it.

The characteristic descriptors are identified according to the round-table method: the panel supervisor leads a discussion based on a series of samples of known origin that display the most important specific characteristics of the VOO undergoing preparatory analysis. When the descriptor recognition stage is completed, the panel supervisor opens discussions with panel members to establish a list of all descriptors that are considered to be most important and characteristic of the designation that is undergoing preparatory analysis.

Validation should take into account the possible natural variations that may occur in the oil from one crop year to the next. When the profile sheet is completed, tasters shall assess the intensity of perception of the descriptors cited in the profile sheet on the 10-cm scale used for commercial grading of oils. The D.O. authority shall fix the maximum and minimum limits of the median for each descriptor included in the profile sheet and shall establish the limits for the robust coefficient of variation of each descriptor. It shall then enter these values in the *IOOC spreadsheet folder-profile* (software) accompanying this method to define the intervals of the characteristic sensory profile of the designation of origin.

Most of the specifications for the designation of origin of oils before 2005 or those that have not undergone revisions after this date, do not refer to the method IOOC just explained, but to the use of a previous procedure (EEC Reg. 2568/1991) for sensory evaluation of the oils. In Figure 1, the profile sheet according to the old regulation for the commercial grading is shown (EEC Reg. 2568/1991). This method provides a partial description of flavour: tasters are requested to define the fruity type, green or ripe, and recognize the presence of attributes such as grass, leaf, apple and other fruits. For each attribute, a discreet score from 0 to 5 is assigned (0: absence of perception; 1: intensity slightly perceptible; 2: intensity light; 3: average intensity; 4: great intensity; 5: extreme intensity), and there are many positive attributes to evaluate in addition to defects. Tasters rate the overall grading by using a 9-point scale: 9 for oils with exceptional sensory characteristics, and 1 for products with the worst qualities. The mean score identifies the category. An oil could be classified as EVOO if it obtains a final score (expressed as an average of the panel's judgement) of 6.5.

In the case of specifications for the designation of origin of some D.O oils, which have not yet been reviewed according to the new IOOC regulation (IOOC, 2005), it is firstly necessary to verify that the sample has the characteristics provided in the extra virgin category using current methods (EC Reg. 640/08), and to subsequently analyze it according to the old profile sheet (EEC Reg. 2568/1991) to verify the presence of characteristic descriptors. The final score for the D.O must be at least 7, but can be even higher.
