**3.2 Hardware and software components**

Kimonos are equipped with a Scatol8 system, made up of hw and sw. The hardware consists of the following elements:


The *software* runs the Scatol8 system:


**Table 2** shows the programming languages used for carrying out the activities.

### *Fashion Industry - An Itinerary Between Feelings and Technology*


**Table 2.**

*The adopted programming languages.*

#### **Figure 9.**

*A running kimono. It detects one environmental variable and change the LED's light proportionally to the acquired value.*

*Features can be set based on the user's needs both with sensors and actuators*. The prototypes presented change their appearance depending on the sound intensity or the temperature or the brightness; dozens of sensors are available, and most of them are currently being tested to customize kimonos. The LEDs, driven by the open-source microcontrollers, take on a bright intensity and different colors to reflect the trend of the variables and to adapt to the color of the fabric (**Figure 9**). In addition to the LEDs, there are other actuators used in computational clothing: for example, it is possible to use heating systems that intervene when the temperature drops below a certain threshold, interaction systems with smartphones, for the collection and transmission of data, buzzers, etc. Also, through a smartphone application (**Figure 10**), you can *set the color and LED sequences* as you liked, depending on the style of your cloth, circumstance, or mood. In this way, the system continues to collect data through the sensors, but the chromatic effect is not determined by the intensity of the monitored variables. Kimono holders can log and make available the date, time, place, and intensity of the variable measured by their clothing (**Figure 11**). This allows the drawing of environmental thematic maps.

#### **3.3 Environmental review**

Kimonos have sprung out from the design planning of **Figure 3**. Alternatives of hardware, software, and fabrics have been routinely verified in their reciprocal

**87**

**Figure 11.**

**Figure 10.**

*variable.*

*How to Make Fabrics Talk Environment: The Scatol8 per la Sostenibilità Way*

relations, to reach the present proposal. **Figure 12** describes the workflow of an interactive kimono. If we consider the process for the production of kimono from a

*The smartphone app forwards the collected data to a server. In this way it's possible to check the values* 

*The mail page of the application. The user can set the color of the kimono and read the detected environmental* 

gate-to-gate perspective, the input factors are:

*everywhere using a browser, not just if you are near the kimono.*

*DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88120*

*How to Make Fabrics Talk Environment: The Scatol8 per la Sostenibilità Way DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88120*

#### **Figure 10.**

*Fashion Industry - An Itinerary Between Feelings and Technology*

Microcontroller C++ App mobile C#, sql Database Sql

**Project part Adopted language**

Backend HTML, PHP, JavaScript, SQL

*A running kimono. It detects one environmental variable and change the LED's light proportionally to the* 

(**Figure 11**). This allows the drawing of environmental thematic maps.

Kimonos have sprung out from the design planning of **Figure 3**. Alternatives of hardware, software, and fabrics have been routinely verified in their reciprocal

*Features can be set based on the user's needs both with sensors and actuators*. The prototypes presented change their appearance depending on the sound intensity or the temperature or the brightness; dozens of sensors are available, and most of them are currently being tested to customize kimonos. The LEDs, driven by the open-source microcontrollers, take on a bright intensity and different colors to reflect the trend of the variables and to adapt to the color of the fabric (**Figure 9**). In addition to the LEDs, there are other actuators used in computational clothing: for example, it is possible to use heating systems that intervene when the temperature drops below a certain threshold, interaction systems with smartphones, for the collection and transmission of data, buzzers, etc. Also, through a smartphone application (**Figure 10**), you can *set the color and LED sequences* as you liked, depending on the style of your cloth, circumstance, or mood. In this way, the system continues to collect data through the sensors, but the chromatic effect is not determined by the intensity of the monitored variables. Kimono holders can log and make available the date, time, place, and intensity of the variable measured by their clothing

**86**

**3.3 Environmental review**

**Figure 9.**

**Table 2.**

*The adopted programming languages.*

*acquired value.*

*The mail page of the application. The user can set the color of the kimono and read the detected environmental variable.*

#### **Figure 11.**

*The smartphone app forwards the collected data to a server. In this way it's possible to check the values everywhere using a browser, not just if you are near the kimono.*

relations, to reach the present proposal. **Figure 12** describes the workflow of an interactive kimono. If we consider the process for the production of kimono from a gate-to-gate perspective, the input factors are:

**Figure 12.** *The workflow of an interactive kimono.*


The operations carried out are exclusively of a physical nature (drawing, cutting, and sewing), and the wastes (wastes of fabric) are reused in other artifacts.

Noting the low environmental impact of the operations carried out in the production of kimono, the improvement of environmental performance has been sought through a critical analysis and evaluation of kimono components, considering the type of raw materials and components and the susceptibility to substitution, in relation to the available environmental information. **Table 3** describes the situation.

Following the implementation of this decision-making scheme, in the framework of an environmental review, attention was focused on the type of fabric and on the identification of an alternative to cotton use.

With regard to the opportunity of denim replacement, this has emerged with reference to the environmental impacts that take place upstream within the Indigo Laboratories production process.

**89**

and air emission.

*The map of key processes.*

*How to Make Fabrics Talk Environment: The Scatol8 per la Sostenibilità Way*

Denim (cotton) Appropriate Possible

Patch of eco-leather Not necessary —

Batteries To be verified Partial

**replacement**

Electronics To be verified Not possible in the short term

Not necessary —

**Susceptibility to substitution**

**Figure 13** shows the map of key processes in the textile production chain, no

Fibers, yarns, fabrics, and garments are the elements that mark the evolution stages. Each of them is a product, i.e., the output of transformation activities that generate a burden of an environmental impact, in terms of waste water, solid waste,

If you want to evaluate the complete environmental impact, applying the LCA

methodology, upstream the manufacturing process, there is the stage of fiber production; downstream there are the stages of distribution, use, and disposal [42]. **Figure 14** drops the general scheme to the case of the production of cotton clothing. Each phase can be considered in itself a from-gate-to-gate form, or the whole cycle of transformations can be evaluated, in a from-cradle-to-grave form. *Scott Camp*, *Gordon Clark*, *Laura Duane*, and *Aaron Haight* have studied the life cycle of jeans from cradle to grave as a collection of seven independent systems. These systems in their respective order are (1) cotton production; (2) fabric production; (3) garment manufacturing; (4) transportation and distribution; (5) consumer use; (6) recycling, which then goes back to step (2); or (7) waste stream in a landfill [41]. Each phase is linked to the subsequent by a transportation activity. If we consider that cotton cultivation is restricted to subtropical areas and that garment manufacturing involves companies located in various countries, from Far East to South and Central America and the USA, it's easy to have an idea about the environmental burdens of transports. **Figure 15** deepens the disposal phase and includes recycling processes. After the use phase, discarded garments can be incinerated (with the generation of energy) or dumped into a landfill. But they can be recycled, after collection and sorting. Depending on their conditions, they can be reused as secondhand products; their

matter the type of fiber, being it synthetic, artificial, or natural.

*DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88120*

Ribbon (natural fibers dyed with natural

dyes)

**Table 3.**

**Figure 13.**

**Parts of kimono Need for** 

*Parts of a kimono and opportunities for ad environmental improvement.*

From a broader point of view, from cradle to grave, the life cycle assessment (LCA) would take into account the environmental impacts of denim.

*How to Make Fabrics Talk Environment: The Scatol8 per la Sostenibilità Way DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88120*


#### **Table 3.**

*Fashion Industry - An Itinerary Between Feelings and Technology*

• Fabrics (denim, hemp, eco-leather)

*The workflow of an interactive kimono.*

instruments, tailor-made meter)

• Tools (tailor's scissors, needles)

• Human resources of multiple professionalism

on the identification of an alternative to cotton use.

Laboratories production process.

• Various software

• Electric energy

• Various materials (sewing thread of various diameters, model paper, writing

• Equipment (sewing machines, computers, microcontrollers, sensors, LEDs)

The operations carried out are exclusively of a physical nature (drawing, cutting,

Following the implementation of this decision-making scheme, in the framework of an environmental review, attention was focused on the type of fabric and

With regard to the opportunity of denim replacement, this has emerged with reference to the environmental impacts that take place upstream within the Indigo

From a broader point of view, from cradle to grave, the life cycle assessment

(LCA) would take into account the environmental impacts of denim.

and sewing), and the wastes (wastes of fabric) are reused in other artifacts. Noting the low environmental impact of the operations carried out in the production of kimono, the improvement of environmental performance has been sought through a critical analysis and evaluation of kimono components, considering the type of raw materials and components and the susceptibility to substitution, in relation to the available environmental information. **Table 3** describes the

**88**

situation.

**Figure 12.**

*Parts of a kimono and opportunities for ad environmental improvement.*

**Figure 13** shows the map of key processes in the textile production chain, no matter the type of fiber, being it synthetic, artificial, or natural.

Fibers, yarns, fabrics, and garments are the elements that mark the evolution stages. Each of them is a product, i.e., the output of transformation activities that generate a burden of an environmental impact, in terms of waste water, solid waste, and air emission.

If you want to evaluate the complete environmental impact, applying the LCA methodology, upstream the manufacturing process, there is the stage of fiber production; downstream there are the stages of distribution, use, and disposal [42].

**Figure 14** drops the general scheme to the case of the production of cotton clothing. Each phase can be considered in itself a from-gate-to-gate form, or the whole cycle of transformations can be evaluated, in a from-cradle-to-grave form. *Scott Camp*, *Gordon Clark*, *Laura Duane*, and *Aaron Haight* have studied the life cycle of jeans from cradle to grave as a collection of seven independent systems. These systems in their respective order are (1) cotton production; (2) fabric production; (3) garment manufacturing; (4) transportation and distribution; (5) consumer use; (6) recycling, which then goes back to step (2); or (7) waste stream in a landfill [41]. Each phase is linked to the subsequent by a transportation activity. If we consider that cotton cultivation is restricted to subtropical areas and that garment manufacturing involves companies located in various countries, from Far East to South and Central America and the USA, it's easy to have an idea about the environmental burdens of transports.

**Figure 15** deepens the disposal phase and includes recycling processes. After the use phase, discarded garments can be incinerated (with the generation of energy) or dumped into a landfill. But they can be recycled, after collection and sorting. Depending on their conditions, they can be reused as secondhand products; their

**Figure 14.** *Life cycle stages of a cotton clothing.*

**91**

13/06/2016.

*How to Make Fabrics Talk Environment: The Scatol8 per la Sostenibilità Way*

fibers can be recycled in the production of a new fabric; parts of them can be used for the production of new garments; and, in this case, we use the term *upcycling*.

With regard to denim (cotton), the recovery of a material results in an environmental gain as disposal has been avoided; the same can be said for the eco-leather

Numerous bibliographic references on the application of LCA to cotton fiber, denim fabrication, jeans packaging, use, and disposal emphasize critical aspects in

Cotton is the world's most pesticide- and chemical-intensive crop. Of all the insecticides sprayed worldwide, cotton spraying accounts for roughly of them, also consuming 10% of the world's pesticides on an annual basis with an estimated cost

These factors have been highlighted and discussed in the framework of a review by the Indigo Laboratories team with the aim of identifying improvement margins

The research of an alternative fiber was based on scientific contributions that evaluated, with LCA methodology, the environmental impact over the entire life

*Considering the whole textile chain, from spinning to finishing, it cannot be ignored that the use of chemicals may have carcinogenic and neurological effects, may cause allergies, and may affect fertility. During these processes, large amounts of water and energy are used, and, in general, non-biodegradable wastes are produced* [55].

*What are the alternatives to cotton?* Emily Kenny-Troughton [46] examines all the available options to avoid or limit the environmental and social impact of the denim production process (**Figure 16**). These alternatives include, but are not limited to, recycled cotton, in-conversion cotton, organic cotton, organic flax, bamboo fiber, BCI cotton, hemp and nettle fibers, TENCEL TM as apex Modal, and recycled polyester. Conventional hemp is very different from cotton; as the plant requires little to no pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides and as it grows so

<sup>4</sup> With the term upcycling, the transformation of a waste into a new fashion object using creativity is indicated. Coined for the first time in 1994 by journalist Reiner Pilz and officially cleared in 1997 in the same book by Gunter Pauli, the concept of upcycling is well defined and largely distinct from the most consolidated recycle term, which describes an industrial process of transformation of waste. The "end of life" of products in the fashion system Rome, October 2013, edited by Clemente Tartaglione and Sara

<sup>5</sup> A large part of the sustainable solutions currently offered focus on the fibers used to create the garments and the ethical and environmental impact that they have. Aside from the petroleum-based obvious bad guys like polyester, cotton is one of the least sustainable fibers currently in use by the clothing industry. Issues with the fiber range from enormous water usage to the controversy of GMO crops and from exploitation of farmers to the widespread use of harmful chemicals. Around 20 million tonnes (USA) (18.14 billion kg) of cotton are grown every year (wwf.panda.org, 2016), and these fibers are present in over 50% of all clothing and other textiles (cottoninc.com, 2016). An example of how inefficient growing cotton is takes around 1514 liters of water for a simple cotton t-shirt (including all processes) and around a staggering 6814 liters of water (Tree- Hugger.com, 2016) to fully process a pair of jeans. The amount of cotton needed for one t-shirt and one pair of jeans is 1 kg (wwf.panda.org, 2016), and just over 1 billion pairs of jeans are sold annually on a global scale (statisticbrain.com, 2016), which gives a rough total of around 1 billion kilos of cotton being affected by the denim industry a year. This shows that steps taken to reduce denim's impact can have large-scale consequences. Research Report, Emily Kenny-Troughton, 500668689, International Fashion & Management, Ligia Hera & Jacqui Haker, page 5,

Corradini with research contributions of Gianmarco Guazzo, Mauro Di Giacomo.

various phases, especially in relation to water use and use of pesticides.5

The valorization of discarded garments is made up of the circular economy and extends the life cycle of a product, promoting material and energy recovery.

4

*DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88120*

fabrics, being produced with waste of agriculture.

of the pesticides totaling \$2.6 billion [43].

and assessing their feasibility.

cycle of other fibers.

**Figure 15.** *Life cycle stages of a cotton clothing, with a focus on end-of-life options.*

### *How to Make Fabrics Talk Environment: The Scatol8 per la Sostenibilità Way DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88120*

fibers can be recycled in the production of a new fabric; parts of them can be used for the production of new garments; and, in this case, we use the term *upcycling*. 4 The valorization of discarded garments is made up of the circular economy and extends the life cycle of a product, promoting material and energy recovery.

With regard to denim (cotton), the recovery of a material results in an environmental gain as disposal has been avoided; the same can be said for the eco-leather fabrics, being produced with waste of agriculture.

Numerous bibliographic references on the application of LCA to cotton fiber, denim fabrication, jeans packaging, use, and disposal emphasize critical aspects in various phases, especially in relation to water use and use of pesticides.5

Cotton is the world's most pesticide- and chemical-intensive crop. Of all the insecticides sprayed worldwide, cotton spraying accounts for roughly of them, also consuming 10% of the world's pesticides on an annual basis with an estimated cost of the pesticides totaling \$2.6 billion [43].

These factors have been highlighted and discussed in the framework of a review by the Indigo Laboratories team with the aim of identifying improvement margins and assessing their feasibility.

The research of an alternative fiber was based on scientific contributions that evaluated, with LCA methodology, the environmental impact over the entire life cycle of other fibers.

*Considering the whole textile chain, from spinning to finishing, it cannot be ignored that the use of chemicals may have carcinogenic and neurological effects, may cause allergies, and may affect fertility. During these processes, large amounts of water and energy are used, and, in general, non-biodegradable wastes are produced* [55].

*What are the alternatives to cotton?* Emily Kenny-Troughton [46] examines all the available options to avoid or limit the environmental and social impact of the denim production process (**Figure 16**). These alternatives include, but are not limited to, recycled cotton, in-conversion cotton, organic cotton, organic flax, bamboo fiber, BCI cotton, hemp and nettle fibers, TENCEL TM as apex Modal, and recycled polyester. Conventional hemp is very different from cotton; as the plant requires little to no pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides and as it grows so

<sup>5</sup> A large part of the sustainable solutions currently offered focus on the fibers used to create the garments and the ethical and environmental impact that they have. Aside from the petroleum-based obvious bad guys like polyester, cotton is one of the least sustainable fibers currently in use by the clothing industry. Issues with the fiber range from enormous water usage to the controversy of GMO crops and from exploitation of farmers to the widespread use of harmful chemicals. Around 20 million tonnes (USA) (18.14 billion kg) of cotton are grown every year (wwf.panda.org, 2016), and these fibers are present in over 50% of all clothing and other textiles (cottoninc.com, 2016). An example of how inefficient growing cotton is takes around 1514 liters of water for a simple cotton t-shirt (including all processes) and around a staggering 6814 liters of water (Tree- Hugger.com, 2016) to fully process a pair of jeans. The amount of cotton needed for one t-shirt and one pair of jeans is 1 kg (wwf.panda.org, 2016), and just over 1 billion pairs of jeans are sold annually on a global scale (statisticbrain.com, 2016), which gives a rough total of around 1 billion kilos of cotton being affected by the denim industry a year. This shows that steps taken to reduce denim's impact can have large-scale consequences. Research Report, Emily Kenny-Troughton, 500668689, International Fashion & Management, Ligia Hera & Jacqui Haker, page 5, 13/06/2016.

*Fashion Industry - An Itinerary Between Feelings and Technology*

**90**

**Figure 15.**

**Figure 14.**

*Life cycle stages of a cotton clothing.*

*Life cycle stages of a cotton clothing, with a focus on end-of-life options.*

<sup>4</sup> With the term upcycling, the transformation of a waste into a new fashion object using creativity is indicated. Coined for the first time in 1994 by journalist Reiner Pilz and officially cleared in 1997 in the same book by Gunter Pauli, the concept of upcycling is well defined and largely distinct from the most consolidated recycle term, which describes an industrial process of transformation of waste. The "end of life" of products in the fashion system Rome, October 2013, edited by Clemente Tartaglione and Sara Corradini with research contributions of Gianmarco Guazzo, Mauro Di Giacomo.

**Figure 16.** *One kimono made of hemp.*

fast, it leaves all other weeds in the shade. In order to make threads from hemp, it is necessary to use the best fibers that are found in the stalk of the plant. This process does not require any chemicals at all, only using the enzymes naturally found in the plant itself meaning that it does little to no harm to the environment, workers, or end users of the product [45]. Lea Turunen states that comparison between hemp and cotton is difficult, due to lack of comparable data, but for the crop production stage, hemp performs clearly better than cotton with respect to pesticide use and water use. To improve hemp performance, she recommends to concentrate on fiber processing and yarn production stages, where hemp requires more energy [47].

There are studies which provide rankings of textile fibers according to their environmental impacts, as shown in **Table 4** and **Figure 17** [44, 45].

Hemp conventionally grown performs very well. In addition, its evaluation would be even better in our reality, as hemp has been cultivated for centuries in

**93**

replaced.

*How to Make Fabrics Talk Environment: The Scatol8 per la Sostenibilità Way*

Class B TENCEL, organic cotton, in-conversion cotton

Class D Virgin polyester, polyacrylic, Lenzing Modal

Class C *Conventional hemp*, ramie, PLA, conventional flax (linen)

Unclassified Silk, organic wool, leather, elastane, acetate, cashmere, alpaca

Class A Recycled cotton, recycled nylon, recycled polyester, *organic hemp*, organic flax (linen)

Class E Conventional cotton, virgin nylon, rayon (cuprammonium), bamboo viscose, wool, generic

Piedmont. The fabric supply market is very close to our company, minimizing

many economic sectors, leading to the integral use of its parts [47–51].

**Figure 18** shows the production of hemp fibers. Spinning and dyeing, fabric manufacturing being the same as cotton, and differences in terms of environmental impacts can be found at the agricultural production, straw processing, and transport stages. The best alternative is raw hemp or dyed with natural pigments.6

In literature, many studies highlight the benefits of hemp, also due to its use in

It is a fiber that can be used for the production of a variety of commercial items such as textiles, clothing, thermal insulation, paint, paper, biofuel, biodegradable

*Ribbons and patch* of eco-leather—The ribbons and the patch in eco-leather are made of natural fibers and dyed with natural pigments; they do not need to be

*Electronics*—Electronic devices, consisting of microcontrollers, sensors, and LEDs, evolve rapidly: it is likely to presume that the market will produce even more miniaturized products, available, so constructed with less material, as a concrete

To get an environmental impact assessment of electronic components, we started an LCA study of the electronic devices we use. As far as LEDs are concerned, there are studies that unequivocally determine environmental benefits of LEDs compared to other forms of lighting (which would not be usable in

<sup>6</sup> Conventional hemp is very different from cotton; as the plant requires little to no pesticides, fungi-

cides, or herbicides and as it grows so fast, it leaves all other weeds in the shade.

*DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88120*

viscose

*Environmental impact of textile fibers.*

**Ranking Fibers**

**Table 4.**

**Figure 17.**

economic and environmental impacts.

*Degree of sustainability of various fibers compared to cotton.*

plastics, food, and animal feed [52, 53].

example of dematerialization strategies.

*How to Make Fabrics Talk Environment: The Scatol8 per la Sostenibilità Way DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88120*


### **Table 4.**

*Fashion Industry - An Itinerary Between Feelings and Technology*

fast, it leaves all other weeds in the shade. In order to make threads from hemp, it is necessary to use the best fibers that are found in the stalk of the plant. This process does not require any chemicals at all, only using the enzymes naturally found in the plant itself meaning that it does little to no harm to the environment, workers, or end users of the product [45]. Lea Turunen states that comparison between hemp and cotton is difficult, due to lack of comparable data, but for the crop production stage, hemp performs clearly better than cotton with respect to pesticide use and water use. To improve hemp performance, she recommends to concentrate on fiber processing and yarn production stages, where hemp requires

There are studies which provide rankings of textile fibers according to their

Hemp conventionally grown performs very well. In addition, its evaluation would be even better in our reality, as hemp has been cultivated for centuries in

environmental impacts, as shown in **Table 4** and **Figure 17** [44, 45].

**92**

more energy [47].

**Figure 16.**

*One kimono made of hemp.*

*Environmental impact of textile fibers.*

**Figure 17.** *Degree of sustainability of various fibers compared to cotton.*

Piedmont. The fabric supply market is very close to our company, minimizing economic and environmental impacts.

**Figure 18** shows the production of hemp fibers. Spinning and dyeing, fabric manufacturing being the same as cotton, and differences in terms of environmental impacts can be found at the agricultural production, straw processing, and transport stages. The best alternative is raw hemp or dyed with natural pigments.6

In literature, many studies highlight the benefits of hemp, also due to its use in many economic sectors, leading to the integral use of its parts [47–51].

It is a fiber that can be used for the production of a variety of commercial items such as textiles, clothing, thermal insulation, paint, paper, biofuel, biodegradable plastics, food, and animal feed [52, 53].

*Ribbons and patch* of eco-leather—The ribbons and the patch in eco-leather are made of natural fibers and dyed with natural pigments; they do not need to be replaced.

*Electronics*—Electronic devices, consisting of microcontrollers, sensors, and LEDs, evolve rapidly: it is likely to presume that the market will produce even more miniaturized products, available, so constructed with less material, as a concrete example of dematerialization strategies.

To get an environmental impact assessment of electronic components, we started an LCA study of the electronic devices we use. As far as LEDs are concerned, there are studies that unequivocally determine environmental benefits of LEDs compared to other forms of lighting (which would not be usable in

<sup>6</sup> Conventional hemp is very different from cotton; as the plant requires little to no pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides and as it grows so fast, it leaves all other weeds in the shade.

**Figure 18.** *Production of hemp fibers.*

garments); the literature does not provide estimates for microprocessors and sensors that we used.

*Batteries*—The batteries currently used have a weight of about 250 g and a variable lifetime depending on the type of usage but can also reach 3 h of autonomy before being recharged.

The ability to integrate into the garment photovoltaic cells would reduce the size and weight of the batteries but would require an LCA verification of the cells themselves. It is something on which we are currently working with a special prototype.

As a final decision, at the end of the review on environmental performance of kimono, it has been decided to plan the manufacture of a line of hemp made of kimono which is significant not only for the environmental point of view but also for the recovery of cultural values associated with the cultivation and use of hemp.

## **4. Conclusions**

Scatol8 for Sustainability is an entrepreneurial initiative that raises the theme of sustainability by incorporating it into luxury goods. Buying a Scatol8 product means belonging to an elite who appreciates handicraft products, an expression of Made in Italy, and acting to be aware of the environment in which one moves. Then, culture becomes a matter of luxury. In a magmatic market of consumer goods, it is not the price to decree the exclusive connotation. The price limits the boundary between who has and who does not have. Luxury, in the Scatol8 vision, delimits the boundary between who is and who is not.

The concept of Scatol8 has been presented through various luxury products (**Figure 19**) that testify the creativity of our innovative start-up. Multidisciplinary know-how, creativity, innovation, short lead time, and outcomes that exceed expectations are the critical success factors we are working on to improve ourselves continually.

**95**

*How to Make Fabrics Talk Environment: The Scatol8 per la Sostenibilità Way*

The *S8\_ID\_KIMONO* has been analyzed in detail; it fulfills the requirements of portability, modularity, and awareness-raising through continuous monitoring of environmental conditions. Hardware and software have been optimized to reduce size and energy consumption. *Indigo Laboratories' proposal incorporates functional and fashion aspects. The functional side is taken from the various electronic devices and consists in monitoring environmental variables; the fashion part is represented by the colors, their variation, and intensity, which transform the garment*. The transmission and processing of data add a scientific aspect. Regarding the monitoring of parameters related to the quality of life, the introduction of new sensors on air quality and the biomedical field will broaden the capability of the garments and, consequently,

*The capsule collection S8-ID-kimono, presented during the exhibition "Y Kimono Now," in Caraglio (CN),* 

Indigo Laboratories intends to expand the number of corporate network members, to increase the effectiveness of joint ventures. Starting with the design of garments, developed together with fashion institutes, thanks to a diversification of production cycles, Scatol8 will be able to develop products whose degree of customization will increase. In view of continuous improvement, we plan to introduce patches of natural fabrics, dyed with natural dyes, to enhance cultivation and

In addition, a current work in progress is the expected adoption of design for environment techniques to develop garments that, from design, propose to integrate hardware not to simply add it. The transition from application to electronic integration is important, in our opinion, to give birth to really new cloth in shapes and style. *In addition to kimono, the electronic system miniaturization and the versatility of the LEDs allow Scatol8 to be integrated in other garments, suitable for every occasion*; for example, the cotton t-shirt collections, which supported Scatol8's message from 2013 onward, made with strictly certified sustainability fabrics [54], will be renewed and

Cost reduction that could be achieved by standardizing the models would lead to the spread of garments that, from the point of view of environmental quality research, would potentially allow thousands of surveys, georeferenced, useful to undertake health policies and to evaluate their effectiveness. Monitoring of environmental conditions and biomedical parameters will provide guidance to improve the quality of life by enabling, in emergencies, the sending of warning signals or the

revolutionized by the interaction made possible by the patented device.

*DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88120*

the business opportunities.

**Figure 19.**

*Piedmont, Italy.*

environmentally virtuous practices, carried out in Italy.

pilotage of systems designed to improve conditions.

*How to Make Fabrics Talk Environment: The Scatol8 per la Sostenibilità Way DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88120*

#### **Figure 19.**

*Fashion Industry - An Itinerary Between Feelings and Technology*

garments); the literature does not provide estimates for microprocessors and sen-

*Batteries*—The batteries currently used have a weight of about 250 g and a variable lifetime depending on the type of usage but can also reach 3 h of autonomy

The ability to integrate into the garment photovoltaic cells would reduce the size and weight of the batteries but would require an LCA verification of the cells themselves. It is something on which we are currently working with a special prototype. As a final decision, at the end of the review on environmental performance of kimono, it has been decided to plan the manufacture of a line of hemp made of kimono which is significant not only for the environmental point of view but also for the recovery of cultural values associated with the cultivation and use of hemp.

Scatol8 for Sustainability is an entrepreneurial initiative that raises the theme of sustainability by incorporating it into luxury goods. Buying a Scatol8 product means belonging to an elite who appreciates handicraft products, an expression of Made in Italy, and acting to be aware of the environment in which one moves. Then, culture becomes a matter of luxury. In a magmatic market of consumer goods, it is not the price to decree the exclusive connotation. The price limits the boundary between who has and who does not have. Luxury, in the Scatol8 vision, delimits the

The concept of Scatol8 has been presented through various luxury products (**Figure 19**) that testify the creativity of our innovative start-up. Multidisciplinary know-how, creativity, innovation, short lead time, and outcomes that exceed expectations are the critical success factors we are working on to improve ourselves

**94**

continually.

sors that we used.

*Production of hemp fibers.*

**Figure 18.**

**4. Conclusions**

boundary between who is and who is not.

before being recharged.

*The capsule collection S8-ID-kimono, presented during the exhibition "Y Kimono Now," in Caraglio (CN), Piedmont, Italy.*

The *S8\_ID\_KIMONO* has been analyzed in detail; it fulfills the requirements of portability, modularity, and awareness-raising through continuous monitoring of environmental conditions. Hardware and software have been optimized to reduce size and energy consumption. *Indigo Laboratories' proposal incorporates functional and fashion aspects. The functional side is taken from the various electronic devices and consists in monitoring environmental variables; the fashion part is represented by the colors, their variation, and intensity, which transform the garment*. The transmission and processing of data add a scientific aspect. Regarding the monitoring of parameters related to the quality of life, the introduction of new sensors on air quality and the biomedical field will broaden the capability of the garments and, consequently, the business opportunities.

Indigo Laboratories intends to expand the number of corporate network members, to increase the effectiveness of joint ventures. Starting with the design of garments, developed together with fashion institutes, thanks to a diversification of production cycles, Scatol8 will be able to develop products whose degree of customization will increase. In view of continuous improvement, we plan to introduce patches of natural fabrics, dyed with natural dyes, to enhance cultivation and environmentally virtuous practices, carried out in Italy.

In addition, a current work in progress is the expected adoption of design for environment techniques to develop garments that, from design, propose to integrate hardware not to simply add it. The transition from application to electronic integration is important, in our opinion, to give birth to really new cloth in shapes and style.

*In addition to kimono, the electronic system miniaturization and the versatility of the LEDs allow Scatol8 to be integrated in other garments, suitable for every occasion*; for example, the cotton t-shirt collections, which supported Scatol8's message from 2013 onward, made with strictly certified sustainability fabrics [54], will be renewed and revolutionized by the interaction made possible by the patented device.

Cost reduction that could be achieved by standardizing the models would lead to the spread of garments that, from the point of view of environmental quality research, would potentially allow thousands of surveys, georeferenced, useful to undertake health policies and to evaluate their effectiveness. Monitoring of environmental conditions and biomedical parameters will provide guidance to improve the quality of life by enabling, in emergencies, the sending of warning signals or the pilotage of systems designed to improve conditions.
