**3. Methodology**

With the purpose to achieve the aim of this research, the following hypothesis has been developed:

H1. *In the fashion industry there is an increasing need to monitor the textile supply chain; in Italy, furthermore, it is necessary to protect the textile production against counterfeiting. Since RFId technologies are considered a strategic tool in many sectors (for example, in traceability of food, animals, and people thanks to electronic passports), the Italian textile industry may be very interested in approaching them*.

The research methodology was structured as follows: the first stage consisted in a review of existing literature, focused on RFId technologies in the textile sector for monitoring the supply chain and for fighting against counterfeiting; the second stage consisted in applying a qualitative case study methodology helping to explore this phenomenon within its context [48, 49].

According to Ref. [50], the choice of this methodology is justified by the need to answer 'how' and 'why', as well as by the fact that authors cannot manipulate the behaviour of those involved in the study, and by the fact that the research focuses on a contemporary phenomenon [51].

We feel that it would be impossible to gain a true picture of the chances for adopting an RFId technology in the fashion industry without considering the context in which it may be developed and used.

In fact, the relationship between RFId technology on the one side, and its implementation for monitoring the supply chain and avoiding counterfeiting on the other side, seems crucial to us.

**63**

*The RFId Technology for Monitoring the Supply Chain and for Fighting…*

We chose this case, Oscalito, because it is quite unique [52, 50, 53].

been one of the first Italian firms to implement voluntary RFId labels.

observed directly, analysed company documents and made interviews.

might cause change) and costs (observers need time)—[55, 51].

Further information was collected from the Oscalito website.

Oscalito undoubtedly shows the above-mentioned characteristics, because it has

According to Ref. [54], this essay uses a wide range of sources of information in order to develop and analyse the case study. In the interest of data triangulation, we

Direct observation was conducted at the company premises in 2018, so as to catch the reality and analyse events in real time: we enjoyed the opportunity to observe several meetings. We are conscious of the weaknesses of such observation: time-consuming; selectivity (might miss facts), reflexivity (observer's presence

On these occasions, we asked to be granted access to company documents in order to better understand the firm and to increase our knowledge about the enter-

In order to capture different dimensions of the same phenomenon, we interviewed the managing director and other people in the company (semi-structured interview) so as to clarify some important topics [54, 56, 57]. Each interview lasted for approximately 1 hour and was conducted by both of us. With a view to reducing the subjectivity of data interpretation, on permission by the interviewee [51], the

We autonomously analysed all data obtained by direct observation, company documentation and interviews, and we finally compared our individual interpreta-

According to the Ying categorisation of case studies, this is a 'descriptive' one: this type of case study is used to describe a 'phenomenon and the real-life context in

In order to better understand the practical applications smart labels can have in the textile industry, the CEO of Oscalito, Dr. Dario Casalini, was contacted and

The Oscalito brand (acronym for Osvaldo Casalini Lino Torino) is produced by Maglificio Po, a textile company founded in Turin in 1936 by two brothers, Osvaldo and Lino Casalini. Initially, clothing lines of underwear and fashion knitwear for men, women and children were created, using high-quality natural fibres. Basically, tubular fabric (without stitching) was produced, using circular machines. Lino's sons, Arrigo and Andrea, later joined the firm, extending the product range to fashion clothes and gaining success even on foreign markets. Export became fundamental for the business (so fundamental that nowadays 70% of the production is exported), and over the years, the women's fashion line acquired a central role in Oscalito's offer. In 2014, Dario Casalini joined the firm; as third generation of the family, he gradually took the lead of the company, renewing the brand and making it grow on the international scale, but always in the sign of continuity. In fact, Oscalito has always kept the entire production chain in Turin: from yarn production to finished garment. It has been among the first firms in the textile industry to introduce RFId labels on individual items of clothing in order to ensure production chain traceability.

We did a triangulation of data sources (data triangulation) [58].

We had the opportunity to analyse memoranda, study reports, etc. The validity of these documents was carefully reviewed so as to avoid incorrect data being analysed. We spent almost a week collecting data emerging from this documentation.

*DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.86344*

prise, especially concerning the RFId label.

interviews were recorded and later transcribed.

tion of the results.

interviewed.

which it occurred' [50, 49].

**4. Case study: Oscalito**

*The RFId Technology for Monitoring the Supply Chain and for Fighting… DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.86344*

*Fashion Industry - An Itinerary Between Feelings and Technology*

inviolability of RFId tags.

**3. Methodology**

has been developed:

however still miss practical applications.

this phenomenon within its context [48, 49].

context in which it may be developed and used.

on a contemporary phenomenon [51].

other side, seems crucial to us.

In Ref. [41], it is suggested that consumers should use personal mobile devices (with RFId reader) in order to obtain information on products they are about to purchase and verify, in particular, their authenticity, while in Ref. [42], it is proposed to integrate RFId tags through the innovative anti-counterfeiting 'TagPrint' system, using COTS RFID tags and readers. This system is characterised by low-cost and offline genuineness validation utilizing passive tags. These three purposes are achieved "*by leveraging a few of federated tags' fingerprints and geometric relationships*". In TagPrint, a new kind of fingerprint is utilised, called phase fingerprint, "*extracted from the phase value of the backscattered signal, provided by the COTS RFID readers*". To further solve the separation challenge, a geometric solution is developed to validate the genuineness. TagPrint, using COTS RFID devices, may increase the

Concerning the textile industry, Ref. [43] presents a practical application of the RFId technology to the fashion sector of an Italian firm: it is argued that the implementation of this technology as to the two most imitated lines of production has enabled to limit the counterfeiting phenomenon and to improve logistics.

Still with a view to the textile industry, thanks to using RFId technology, Refs. [44, 45] propose a system called 'electronic-pedigree' (e-pedigree), which enables to verify single elements, identify missing objects and foresee the status of the products wherever they are located within the supply chain. In 2015, an algorithm named 'tag data processing and synchronization—TDPS' was presented, which makes it possible to develop an e-pedigree [29]. To date, the studies of these authors

On top of eliminating sales of counterfeited goods, the application of RFId tags on items of clothing enables to hamper organised crime, by rapidly identifying and

With the purpose to achieve the aim of this research, the following hypothesis

The research methodology was structured as follows: the first stage consisted in a review of existing literature, focused on RFId technologies in the textile sector for monitoring the supply chain and for fighting against counterfeiting; the second stage consisted in applying a qualitative case study methodology helping to explore

According to Ref. [50], the choice of this methodology is justified by the need to answer 'how' and 'why', as well as by the fact that authors cannot manipulate the behaviour of those involved in the study, and by the fact that the research focuses

We feel that it would be impossible to gain a true picture of the chances for adopting an RFId technology in the fashion industry without considering the

In fact, the relationship between RFId technology on the one side, and its implementation for monitoring the supply chain and avoiding counterfeiting on the

H1. *In the fashion industry there is an increasing need to monitor the textile supply chain; in Italy, furthermore, it is necessary to protect the textile production against counterfeiting. Since RFId technologies are considered a strategic tool in many sectors (for example, in traceability of food, animals, and people thanks to electronic passports),* 

reacting to its illicit strategies, which are constantly evolving [46]. Further interesting cases are mentioned in Refs [47, 44].

*the Italian textile industry may be very interested in approaching them*.

**62**

We chose this case, Oscalito, because it is quite unique [52, 50, 53].

Oscalito undoubtedly shows the above-mentioned characteristics, because it has been one of the first Italian firms to implement voluntary RFId labels.

According to Ref. [54], this essay uses a wide range of sources of information in order to develop and analyse the case study. In the interest of data triangulation, we observed directly, analysed company documents and made interviews.

Direct observation was conducted at the company premises in 2018, so as to catch the reality and analyse events in real time: we enjoyed the opportunity to observe several meetings. We are conscious of the weaknesses of such observation: time-consuming; selectivity (might miss facts), reflexivity (observer's presence might cause change) and costs (observers need time)—[55, 51].

On these occasions, we asked to be granted access to company documents in order to better understand the firm and to increase our knowledge about the enterprise, especially concerning the RFId label.

We had the opportunity to analyse memoranda, study reports, etc. The validity of these documents was carefully reviewed so as to avoid incorrect data being analysed. We spent almost a week collecting data emerging from this documentation. Further information was collected from the Oscalito website.

In order to capture different dimensions of the same phenomenon, we interviewed the managing director and other people in the company (semi-structured interview) so as to clarify some important topics [54, 56, 57]. Each interview lasted for approximately 1 hour and was conducted by both of us. With a view to reducing the subjectivity of data interpretation, on permission by the interviewee [51], the interviews were recorded and later transcribed.

We autonomously analysed all data obtained by direct observation, company documentation and interviews, and we finally compared our individual interpretation of the results.

We did a triangulation of data sources (data triangulation) [58].

According to the Ying categorisation of case studies, this is a 'descriptive' one: this type of case study is used to describe a 'phenomenon and the real-life context in which it occurred' [50, 49].
