**1. Introduction**

Textile industry is the foremost sector in terms of the discharged volume and the composition of the wastewater [1]. Most of the textile production processes, such as scouring, washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, and finishing, consume large volumes of fresh water and discharge large volumes of effluent which are generally with intense color, high concentration of organic compounds, and large variations in composition [2, 3]. Especially wet process, which has five main stages including pretreatment, dyeing, finishing, drying, and quality control, is the major part of the textile industry due to the long processing time and technical complexity [4]. Specific water consumption range is given as 10–645 L/kg product for the textile industry and 21–645 L/kg for the mills with finishing and dyeing processes in (ref BAT-EC). In another source, it is reported that the consumed amount of water could reach to 932 L/kg product depending on the fiber and applied technology [5–7].

In recent years, depleted resources, global warming, and climate change resulting in challenging regulations enforce manufacturing enterprises to give efforts to reduce the waste of the processes, which motivate firms for the sustainable (cleaner) production. Besides environmental considerations, the effective planning of the production is also obligatory to reduce the production costs to be able to compete with other manufacturers. Moreover, an empirical study built on the

theoretical model derived from the Cobbe-Douglas production function revealed that customers prefer the environmentally friendly goods produced by using cleaner production principles in Japan [8].

Cleaner production is defined in the report of the United Nations Environment Program (UNEP) [9] as "the continuous application of an integrated preventive environmental strategy to processes, products, and services, to increase overall efficiency, and reduce risks to humans and the environment." Unlike the end-ofpipe (EOP) treatment, which takes the design of the production fixed and attempts to solve the problem after the occurrence of pollution, cleaner production approach aims to solve the problem before it happens by considering pollution and wastes mostly as a result of the inadequacy, inefficiency, and ineffectiveness of the design, utilization of resources, and production processes stages. Necessary developments in these stages are suggested to provide sustainability to the processes [10].

The European Commission referred the best available techniques (BAT) reference document for the textile industry in 2003 [11]. The purpose of the document is to achieve a high level of protection for the environment as a whole. The document includes general information on the industrial sector concerned and on the industrial processes used within the sector, data and information about emission and consumption levels, emission reduction and other techniques that are considered to be most relevant for determining BAT and BAT-based permit conditions, and the techniques and the emission and consumption levels that are considered to be compatible with BAT.

Optimization ensures the most efficient use of existing processes. In the production facilities, the problem of reducing the use of water and energy used to produce high-quality products for a limited time is a complex problem to solve with conventional optimization methods. The consumption of energy and by means of noncostly changes and production planning, the use of waste treatment, and the reduction of water usage in the process, the environment will be covered. Multiobjective optimization methods target this type of complex problems.

Metaheuristic optimization methods are problem-independent techniques unlike the heuristic methods. However, it is necessary to introduce the intrinsic parameters of the problem to adapt the technique. Application of metaheuristic optimization methods to textile processes is a novel subject, and there are different perspectives on it. In some of the studies, the lot size and scheduling [12] are tried to optimize, while some of them try to model the end-of-pipe treatments [13–19]. However, only a few studies are meant to reduce the amount of wastewater and improve the process for clean production [4, 20–23].

In a recent review [24], different approaches and methods in water conservation for textile wet processing industry were effectively classified into five main groups that have many subgroups: (i) water conservation through textile wastewater treatment and reuse, (ii) water conservation through innovations in textile processing machines, (iii) water conservation through innovations in textile processing methods, (iv) water conservation through innovations in textile chemicals and auxiliaries, and (v) tools for processing water use analysis and conservation. However, only several studies on BAT were mentioned briefly while there is no information on the optimization of production scheduling of wet processes.

In this study, the methods of effective planning of the production of the textile industry have been compiled from the studies. There has not been a review on this scope in the literature so far. This review aims to introduce and compare the different perspectives on sustainable production in textile industry via BAT and nonconventional optimization methods, which suggest affordable solutions to reduce the pollution without increasing operating costs. It is also possible to reduce the energy used in some of the applications.

**3**

*Sustainable Production Methods in Textile Industry DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.84316*

**2. Approaches to sustainable production**

technology, and foam technology in the finishing process.

**2.1 Applications of the best available techniques (BAT)**

provide sustainability and clean production to the textile processes.

40.2%. Additionally, total energy consumption was decreased by 17.1%.

Ozturk and coworkers investigated a cotton and polyester knitting-weaving fabric and subsequent finishing-dyeing mill in Turkey in terms of BAT applications [5]. The mill with two main production lines had bleaching and dyeing capacities of 2412 and 6682 tons/year, respectively. Freshwater consumed each day was almost 3100 tons before the modification. After the data for 3 years were analyzed, 14 BAT including good management practices, water minimization, and chemical minimization/substitution were chosen from 92 suitable improvements considering mainly their priority, techno-availability, and potential benefits. Some of them are reuse/recovery of washing/rinsing and softening wastewater, reuse of suitable dye bath, caustic recovery from mercerization process wastewaters using membrane process, chemical substitution, and so on. The mill was consuming 95–102 L water per kg product, 9–10 g dyestuff/ kg product, and 347–383 g/kg product. After the implementation of selected BATs, the probable reduction in the consumption of water and chemicals was estimated as 43–51 and 16–39%, respectively. The wastewater flow rate was expected to be reduced by 45–52%. Payback period of the implementation was calculated as 26 months at most. Kocabas and coworkers [6] carried out BAT on a denim manufacturing mill in Turkey. First, they gathered information about the sources of wastewater and their type, quantity and composition as in the BAT reference document (ref BREF).

Sustainable production is important in order to efficient use of resources, reduc-

As a valuable contribution to the literature on the cleaner processes, 18 emerging technologies using the energy and water effectively in the textile industry were explained with their backgrounds, benefits, and commercialization [25]. The technologies were compared with the ability of water saving, energy saving, material saving, and time saving in addition to the reduction in wastewater. As a result, technologies fulfilled all the abilities were enzymatic treatments, ultrasonic treatments, advanced cotton fiber pre-treatment to increase dye receptivity, plasma

In the literature, BAT and metaheuristic optimization methods are studied to

Alkaya and Demirer studied environmental performance evaluation and sustainable production applications in a woven fabric manufacturing mill in Turkey [26]. The aim of the study was to decrease water consumption, wastewater generation, energy consumption and resulting greenhouse gas emissions, and sodium salt consumption. Baseline data were collected for 8 months. The amount of water consumed per kilogram of product was found as 138.9 L. Additional 4 months spent on implementation and 12 months for monitoring the sustainable production applications. Environmental benchmarking was done by collecting specific resource consumption and waste generation data, which are known as Environmental Performance Indicators (EPIs). As a result of investigation of the process by using BAT, five applications were applied on the process: use of drop-fill washing instead of overflow, reuse of stender cooling water, reuse of singeing cooling water, renovation of water softening system, and renovation of valves and fittings. As a result, amount of wastewater of the process was reduced by 43.4% and CO2 emission, which is mainly originated from energy consumption, was decreased by 20.2%. Total water consumption was also reduced by

tion of waste, and related costs. There are several reference documents that are suggesting techniques to analyze and modify the textile processes to decrease the consumption of water and energy resulting in the reduction of the pollution.

*Textile Industry and Environment*

compatible with BAT.

cleaner production principles in Japan [8].

theoretical model derived from the Cobbe-Douglas production function revealed that customers prefer the environmentally friendly goods produced by using

in these stages are suggested to provide sustainability to the processes [10].

The European Commission referred the best available techniques (BAT) reference document for the textile industry in 2003 [11]. The purpose of the document is to achieve a high level of protection for the environment as a whole. The document includes general information on the industrial sector concerned and on the industrial processes used within the sector, data and information about emission and consumption levels, emission reduction and other techniques that are considered to be most relevant for determining BAT and BAT-based permit conditions, and the techniques and the emission and consumption levels that are considered to be

Optimization ensures the most efficient use of existing processes. In the production facilities, the problem of reducing the use of water and energy used to produce high-quality products for a limited time is a complex problem to solve with conventional optimization methods. The consumption of energy and by means of noncostly changes and production planning, the use of waste treatment, and the reduction of water usage in the process, the environment will be covered. Multi-

Metaheuristic optimization methods are problem-independent techniques unlike the heuristic methods. However, it is necessary to introduce the intrinsic parameters of the problem to adapt the technique. Application of metaheuristic optimization methods to textile processes is a novel subject, and there are different perspectives on it. In some of the studies, the lot size and scheduling [12] are tried to optimize, while some of them try to model the end-of-pipe treatments [13–19]. However, only a few studies are meant to reduce the amount of wastewater and

In a recent review [24], different approaches and methods in water conservation for textile wet processing industry were effectively classified into five main groups that have many subgroups: (i) water conservation through textile wastewater treatment and reuse, (ii) water conservation through innovations in textile processing machines, (iii) water conservation through innovations in textile processing methods, (iv) water conservation through innovations in textile chemicals and auxiliaries, and (v) tools for processing water use analysis and conservation. However, only several studies on BAT were mentioned briefly while there is no information on

In this study, the methods of effective planning of the production of the textile industry have been compiled from the studies. There has not been a review on this scope in the literature so far. This review aims to introduce and compare the different perspectives on sustainable production in textile industry via BAT and nonconventional optimization methods, which suggest affordable solutions to reduce the pollution without increasing operating costs. It is also possible to reduce the energy

objective optimization methods target this type of complex problems.

improve the process for clean production [4, 20–23].

the optimization of production scheduling of wet processes.

Cleaner production is defined in the report of the United Nations Environment Program (UNEP) [9] as "the continuous application of an integrated preventive environmental strategy to processes, products, and services, to increase overall efficiency, and reduce risks to humans and the environment." Unlike the end-ofpipe (EOP) treatment, which takes the design of the production fixed and attempts to solve the problem after the occurrence of pollution, cleaner production approach aims to solve the problem before it happens by considering pollution and wastes mostly as a result of the inadequacy, inefficiency, and ineffectiveness of the design, utilization of resources, and production processes stages. Necessary developments

**2**

used in some of the applications.
