**3. Fundamentals of lace braiding**

Lace braiding machines utilize rotating plates, analogous in functionality to horn gears of Maypole braiding machines, to control bobbin motion and produce desired designs. To the credit of machine lace and a testament of its versatility, it can be difficult to distinguish from its handmade counterparts [7]. Some limitations are imposed by mechanical aspects of the machine design; however, simple laces such as Torchon lace can be easily made with the lace braiding machine [13].

Braided lace is formed by basic stitches typically applied to bobbin pairs. In this case, a pair of bobbins may simply rotate clockwise or counterclockwise as a twisted pair as well as interchanging with an adjacent bobbin pair. Individual control of a single yarn or yarn pair enables lace designs to be complex with almost infinite possibilities. However, even the most complex designs are derived from two motions. These basic motions comprise various stitches and by combining simple motions, intricate patterns may be designed. In general, the design of lace is described by the stitches, i.e., the basic movements of bobbin pairs. Furthermore, by utilizing various materials and yarn tensions, other desired features such as textures and holes may be imparted to the lace.

Although this unique nature of the Barmen lace industry had limited the dissemination of widespread knowledge, it did encourage the production of lace in the region. Barmen lace benefitted from the proximity of lace producers, lace machine designers and many technological developments are evident in the U.S. Patents issued to residents of Barmen and

Lace Braiding Machines for Composite Preform Manufacture

http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.82256

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The Barmen lace machine is an evolution of the original mechanically geared braiding machine, often known as a Maypole braiding machine. In the Maypole braiding machine, the yarns are divided into two fixed groups of counter rotating directions producing two oppositely pitched sets of helices. The Barmen braiding machine allows individual yarns to change direction at effectively any point along its path. Similarly, as the Maypole braiding machine was inspired by the Maypole dance, the Barmen machine design inspiration comes from the agile hand motions of bobbin lace makers. The distinct advantage of the Barmen over the conventional Maypole braiding machine is found in the motion control of individual yarns. Pattern control in these machines is implemented using a Jacquard

**Figure 3** shows the general structure of a Barmen lace braiding machine. By comparison, this machine is significantly smaller than those other lace formation technologies. The basic components of the Maypole braider are also found in the Barmen braiding machine including frame, spur gear train, spindles, and take-up device. However, the Barmen machine employs more advanced features. The primary difference is the versatility of the driver plates (i.e., horn gears) which can be turned on and off as stipulated by operational rules. **Figure 4** is a schematic view of the top of a Barmen lace braiding machine. The even numbered driver plates turn clockwise and the odd numbered driver plates turn counter-clockwise. The even

cycle must finish and the spindles or carriers stop before the odd cycle can begin.

Wuppertal, Germany.

mechanism.

**4.2. Barmen lace braiding machine**

**Figure 3.** Barmen lace braiding machine circa 1920 [14].
