**3.2. Virtual postural models**

back pain. This type of kyphosis tends to be rigid on clinical examination. A mild degree of sco-

**Congenital kyphosis** can be caused by a malformation of the spinal column during fetal development. Several vertebrae may be fused together or the bones may not form properly.

Self-image, or the way we feel about our bodies, can affect all aspects of our daily life. If we are wearing clothes that fit well and feel comfortable, this inevitably helps to boost our confidence. People with sustained spine deformity have problems with clothes that do not fit well in the back and front parts. They are tight across the back, too short in the back length (BL) and too long in the front length, open at the back of the neck and hemlines can become uneven, and so on [15].

As we have already explained, the curvature graphs were not used directly, but were used just to show how they work. We will present some examples. Curvature graphs were used to determine non-symmetry on a real face scan as **Figure 5** shows. The highest peak on the curvature graph represents the nose, which is in the middle. The left and the right sides of the curvature graph will be symmetrically identical over this peak on a perfect symmetrical face, but it is not in this case. That way, we proof non-symmetry that is not obviously seen on a real face scan.

**Figure 6** shows a series of increasing accelerated curves (a) with their curvature graphs (b)

and a series of increasing decelerated curves (c) with their curvature graphs (d).

**Figure 5.** Symmetry on a cut-line of 3D-scanned human face. On the right side is the curvature graph [17].

liosis is common in adolescents with Scheuermann's kyphosis.

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This type of kyphosis may worsen as the child grows [16].

**3. Practical examples using CASP methodology**

**3.1. Curvature graphs**

Virtual models were made using "Make Human" [19], an open-source program for human body creation. An open-source program "Blender" was used for posing [20], which means rotating or moving body parts virtually (in this case, the upper torso) to simulate not standard posture-scoliotic or kyphotic. 3D models that represent normal postures were used as reference and compared to models with postural deformity. The differences between them were determined with CASP values.

#### *3.2.1. Scoliotic model*

In our research on using the CASP methodology for virtual prototyping of garments for people with postural disorders and spinal deformities, we first created an artificial, symmetrical 3D female body without any deformity. Afterwards, this model was deformed in the left shoulder area. The deformity is typical for a girl or a woman with scoliosis, as shown in **Figure 9**.

Both body models presented in **Figure 9** were analyzed using the CASP method in the shoulder area as **Figure 10** shows.

The differences in CASP properties are primarily in the symmetry, which is expected, since we created the asymmetry artificially.

**Figure 7.** A user holds a computer mouse in the right hand [18].

**Figure 8.** The shape of the thumb fits on the shape of the mouse and graph *K*(s) on the right side [18].

**Figure 9.** Normal (dark grey) and scoliotic synthetic female body (light grey) [21].

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**Figure 10.** Cross-section parts on the back for a normal body (left) and a deformed body (right) [21].

The dress basic pattern design was constructed in the CAD computer program Optitex PDS (Pattern Design System) [22] according to normal (symmetric) synthetic female body dimensions by using the rules of the construction system by M. Müller and Sohn [23]. The construction system defines rules for construction of the garment pattern designs based on body dimensions and proportions. **Figure 11** presents fitting a dress on the normal and **Figure 12** on the scoliotic synthetic female body. The differences in the CASP values are also reflected in the dress's appearance. The deformed body is asymmetric. Because of the convex line, the

**Figure 11.** Basic dress pattern design on a normal synthetic body model [9].

**Figure 9.** Normal (dark grey) and scoliotic synthetic female body (light grey) [21].

**Figure 8.** The shape of the thumb fits on the shape of the mouse and graph *K*(s) on the right side [18].

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**Figure 12.** Basic dress pattern design on a synthetic scoliotic female body model [9].

straight seam in the middle of the back causes the appearance of the dress to increase the appearance of the asymmetry of the body. It is also observed in the movement of the parts and their asymmetry according to the body, and shortening of the dress on the right side of the body [9].

With reconstruction of the basic dress pattern design, we want to balance the appearance of the asymmetric body so that it looks as if the body is symmetrical. Contour corrections of the dress side seams, waist seams, and back middle seam in the blade area were performed, as well as contour corrections of the waist, breast, and blade darts, according to the fitting anomalies, as shown in **Figure 13**.

Adapted and not adapted basic dress pattern designs as virtual prototypes are presented in **Figure 14**. It is clearly visible that the reconstruction process of the basic dress pattern design improves the appearance and fit of the adapted dress to a deformed body. The seam in the middle of the back is aligned. Darts are symmetrical according to the center of the body. The seam line in the waist and dress edge are also aligned.

#### *3.2.2. Kyphotic model*

The body with a normal spine, and a kyphotic model with slightly curved, curved, and strongly curved spines, found in the case of kyphosis, were prepared in virtual space, as shown in **Figure 15**.

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**Figure 13.** Comparison between basic dress pattern design (light grey) and adapted scoliotic dress pattern design (dark grey) [9].

straight seam in the middle of the back causes the appearance of the dress to increase the appearance of the asymmetry of the body. It is also observed in the movement of the parts and their asymmetry according to the body, and shortening of the dress on the right side of

**Figure 12.** Basic dress pattern design on a synthetic scoliotic female body model [9].

With reconstruction of the basic dress pattern design, we want to balance the appearance of the asymmetric body so that it looks as if the body is symmetrical. Contour corrections of the dress side seams, waist seams, and back middle seam in the blade area were performed, as well as contour corrections of the waist, breast, and blade darts, according to the fitting

Adapted and not adapted basic dress pattern designs as virtual prototypes are presented in **Figure 14**. It is clearly visible that the reconstruction process of the basic dress pattern design improves the appearance and fit of the adapted dress to a deformed body. The seam in the middle of the back is aligned. Darts are symmetrical according to the center of the body. The

The body with a normal spine, and a kyphotic model with slightly curved, curved, and strongly curved spines, found in the case of kyphosis, were prepared in virtual space, as

the body [9].

anomalies, as shown in **Figure 13**.

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*3.2.2. Kyphotic model*

shown in **Figure 15**.

seam line in the waist and dress edge are also aligned.

All 3D body models were analyzed using the CASP methodology in the round-back area. The observation plane was projected on an imported body mesh model, as presented in **Figure 10**. Furthermore, calculations were executed by Grasshoppers' *n* × *n* procedure and values for CASP were obtained as a numerical result.

The virtual measurements of the back lengths were performed according to the Standard ISO 8559 [24] by using the Optitex PDS system [22]. The back length was measured precisely from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line. The waist girth in all 3D body models was 66.74 cm.

The results of the CASP analysis and measured back length are collected in **Table 1**.

In addition, differences were calculated between the normal spine and deformed spines for CASP parameters and back lengths, as well as quotients between the curvature differences

**Figure 14.** Not adapted and adapted (reconstructed) basic dress pattern design on a deformed body [9].

**Figure 15.** Normal (dark grey) and kyphotic (light grey) posture.

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**Table 1.** Values C (Curvature), A (Acceleration), S (Symmetry), P (Proportionality), and BL (back length) for normal and scoliotic models [25].

wand back lengths' differences, and between the acceleration differences and back lengths' differences, **Table 2**. The results show clearly that CASP values, especially Curvature—C and Acceleration—A, increase with an increase in the spine deformity. It seems that parameters Symmetry—S and Proportionality—P are independent regarding the spine deformity. This was also expected, because Symmetry—*S* measures differences between the left and right sides of the body. While the body was generated synthetically with a computer 3D program, the differences are negligible. The back length increases with an increase in the spine deformity.

A logarithmic graph chart of the **curvature difference** and **back length difference** was found when increasing the spine deformity. Logarithmic graphs have axes with logarithmic steps like 0.1/1/10/100/1000/10,000, and so on. The polynomial trend of the **acceleration difference** and the ratio DA/DBL was found with an increase in the spine deformity, **Figures 16** and **17**. Synthetically created body models were created with deformity of the upper spine with 5° steps. These equal steps caused chart trends of acceleration-dependent values presented in **Figure 15**.

The results show that the ratio DC/DBL is almost the same for all spine curvatures and equals 0.5, shown in **Table 2**. Therefore, it could be supposed that the back length difference is two times higher than the curvature difference. This means that it may be possible to include the CASP parameter for the curvature difference directly in the process of reconstruction of the garment pattern design to a specific body shape. The reconstruction of garment pattern


**Table 2.** Values DC (curvature difference) and DA (acceleration difference). DBL (back length difference) and quotients DC/DBL and DA/DBL for scoliotic models [25].

**Figure 15.** Normal (dark grey) and kyphotic (light grey) posture.

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**Figure 14.** Not adapted and adapted (reconstructed) basic dress pattern design on a deformed body [9].

**Figure 16.** The curvature differences (DCs) and back length differences (DBLs) when increasing the spine deformity [25].

design is usually carried out by observation of the body shape and measuring of body dimensions, which is a lengthy process in terms of manufacturing and fitting clothing.

Based on the previous results, the constructed bodice basic pattern design was reconstructed according to the calculated value of the curvature difference for the slightly curved, curved, and strongly curved kyphosis spines. The virtual fittings of the bodice basic pattern design to a normal 3D body model and reconstructed bodice basic pattern

**Figure 17.** Acceleration difference (DA) and the ratio DA/DBL charts [25].

designs were performed to the 3D kyphosis body models, **Figure 18**. During reconstruction, the front middles were shortened for the double value of CD and the back middles were extended for the double value of DC, while the back darts were extended and raised for the CD.

The results regarding the virtual fitting of the bodice basic pattern design to normal and kyphosis 3D body models show that, with an increase in the spine curvature, the bodice front length increases and the bodice back length decreases. Therefore, the waistline is not straight, and inappropriate fitting appeared.

The results regarding the virtual fitting of the reconstructed bodice pattern designs to a kyphosis 3D body model show the straightened bottom edge of all the simulated bodices. During reconstruction, the front middles were shortened by the double value of CD and the back middles were extended by the double value of DC, while the back darts were extended and raised by the CD. Based on these findings, it could be supposed that, with a reconstruction of the garment by using the measured and calculated CASP values and the curvature differences for curved spines, respectively, improved garments fitting would be achieved and, at the same time, wearing comfort in terms of garment pattern design.

It can be concluded that the CASP methodology could be adequate for defining the appropriate garment pattern design for persons with a curved spine. Therefore, it is definitely

design is usually carried out by observation of the body shape and measuring of body dimen-

**Figure 16.** The curvature differences (DCs) and back length differences (DBLs) when increasing the spine deformity [25].

Based on the previous results, the constructed bodice basic pattern design was reconstructed according to the calculated value of the curvature difference for the slightly curved, curved, and strongly curved kyphosis spines. The virtual fittings of the bodice basic pattern design to a normal 3D body model and reconstructed bodice basic pattern

sions, which is a lengthy process in terms of manufacturing and fitting clothing.

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**Figure 17.** Acceleration difference (DA) and the ratio DA/DBL charts [25].

**Figure 18.** Fitting of the bodice basic pattern design (grey) and reconstructed bodice basic pattern designs [25].

necessary in the future to carry out additional research work on a larger number of diverse curvatures of the kyphosis spine with real persons, to confirm the findings of this research.
