*2.2.4. "Scabecciu" olives*

350 Olive Germplasm – The Olive Cultivation, Table Olive and Olive Oil Industry in Italy

*2.2.2. Natural green and black olives by Itrana-style* 

crunchiness) are more pronounced.

*2.2.3. Cracked/crushed olives* 

packed in barrels or in varnished cans, which are filled with 8% fresh brine. They are popular because of their slightly bitter taste and aroma. When the bitterness has been sufficiently weakened the fruit can be marketed. To reduce the debittering phase, several researches have evaluated the use of selected oleuropeinolytic lactic acid bacteria (LAB) as starter cultures in Greek-style olive processing. *Lactobacillus plantarum (*Ciafardini *et al*., 1994; Marsilio *et al*., 1996; Marsilio & Lanza, 1998; Marsilio *et al*., 2005; Panagou *et al*., 2008) and *Lactobacillus pentosus*  (Panagou *et al*., 2003; Panagou *et al*., 2008; Servili *et al*., 2006), in addition to developing a fast growth and a good acidifying capacity even in the presence of high concentrations of salt (brine), were able to grow in the presence of phenolic compounds (known for their antimicrobial action) and, thanks to the marked oleuropeinolytic activity, degraded the

oleuropein in no-bitter compounds, reducing thus considerably the time of debittering.

The *Itrana* variety is grown mainly in Lazio region and affects the hilly area of Ausoni, Lepini and Aurunci mountains. The production is concentrated in Latina district (Itri, Cori, Rocca Massima and Sonnino). The olives destined to produce the famous "*Oliva nera di Gaeta*" are harvested at the stage of full maturity in the months of February-March (very late compared to most table olive cultivars). This method provides an initial step of immersion in water for about 1 month to stimulate the growth of specific microflora that contributes to the debittering of the fruits (Lanza, 2010). After 10-30 days salt is added to the liquid, in quantities not exceeding 7 kg per 100 kg of fresh olives. After 4-6 months of storage in brine the olive flesh shows a typical red-wine colour and acidic taste probably due to the contribution of heterofermentative bacteria and yeasts. In recent years another type of product named "*Oliva bianca di Itri*" has evolved. The processing system is basically the same but the Itrana fruits are collected at the beginning of ripening in the months of November-December, when they reach their final size and look green or turning-color, and immersed immediately in water. After 6-8 months, the product results more bitter and acid respect to Gaeta olives and kinesthetic characteristics (hardness, fibrousness and

This type of processing is typical of the Calabria, Puglia and Campania regions. In Puglia (Salento) the olives of *Ogliarola salentina* cv., harvested at the green stage of ripening, are crushed with a wooden hammer (or a crushing machine) taking care not to break the stone, then they are put in an earthenware pot with water for at least 2 weeks changing the water at least twice a day. The olives suitable for this preparation must have a crunchy flesh with a strong detachment of the flesh from the stone. The finished product is seasoned with garlic, pepper, oregano and other spices (local name: *volia cazzata*). In Calabria (Crotonese) olives of *Carolea* cv. are similarly prepared (local name: *aliva maccata*). In Campania (Cilento) the olives of *Pisciottana* cv. are still prepared according to an ancient recipe that has very special ingredients and an elaborate preparation process. The green olives are picked, washed with a lot of water and left in a bowl, in which powdered lime and ashes are added; everything is The Scabecciu olives are a traditional preparation typical of Sardegna region. The ripe olives of *Tonda di Cagliari* and *Pizz'e Carroga* varieties are engraved in three points, put in brine for about 3 days, washed with water and blanched in vinegar-water and then dried in the sun. Finally, they are fried with garlic and parsley and placed in oil. After about 1 month of preparation they can be consumed as appetizer.
