**1. Introduction**

56 Textile Dyeing

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Throughout history the function and the original role of the textile changed very little. One could only think of only few generations of textiles that would bear significant differences when compared one to another. Textiles were to provide the necessary shielding against climatic conditions and only later on in history the shear design of it became more importance. Nowadays, textile engineers and technologists like to think there is a new generation of textiles emerging. This thinking is supported by new functionalities being added onto textiles in the last few several decades. For this to happen, it was necessary to combine state of the art electronics and newly synthesized organic molecules which would bring the functionality of the textile to another level. Scientists of various research branches working together, looking at issues and solving problems applying multisciplinary approaches was the right angle of looking at things. Results of this can be seen daily, as textiles are emerging into a new era in which "know how" and "state of the art" have to be combined to give products of highly added values. Producing "highly added value" products can give the leverage to companies of the western world in an ongoing "battle" against massively produced, low quality textiles of mainly eastern origin.

Although, the way to commercialization of many of the ideas of how to upgrade the functionalities of the textile is long, the results may be far greater than the challenges encountered. Often, the answer on how to do it lies in using technologies and knowledge that have been around for centuries. Therefore, this paper will deal with the phenomenon of photochromics, which has first been noticed in 19th century and so far not exploited nearly enough within the realm of textiles (Hepworth et al., 1999). It will cover the historical overview, division of photochromic systems and their synthesis, principals and triggering mechanisms, various fastness property issues and applicability to fibres of different origin (Shuiping et al., 2010). Application methods and state of the art shall be described thoroughly, providing scientific and technological achievements from the relevant literature references (Durr & Bouas-Laurent, 1990).

Group of authors addresses the combination of photochromism phenomenon and textile in general as newly derived system, bearing all the qualities of a sensory material. Within it, molecule of photochromic dye may be observed as "smart", as it is triggered by a specific and quantifiable physical value. Properly applied, this "smart dye" and adequate textile fibre form a textile sensor capable of sensing and reacting to a particular impulse in a predictable manner (Czarnik, 1995; Van Langehove, 2007).

From Murex Purpura to Sensory Photochromic Textiles 59



for compounds of redox active localities, such as metal ions and metal radicals - Solavtochromism – change in colour of a compound is caused by solvent polarity. Most



Over the past ten years, investigations on thermochromic pigments have gained popularity. These are aimed at obtaining new effects on dyed textile materials. Using a conventional technique of textile printing in combination with thermochromic pigment an intelligent textile is obtained. Intelligence is defined by the ability of the printed textile to change colour in accordance to the presence of an outside stimulus. In this case temperature changes ocurring within the close environment of the textile (Karlessi, et al. 2009; Kulčar et

As far as quality of the chromic materials goes, it will depend on several parameters:

The phenomenon of photochromism is an analogue to all chromic processes. The change in colour is influenced by light in a reversible way (Fig. 1) (Cheng, 2007). Uncoloured material doesn't absorb light and may only be activated by energetically rich photons of the near UV electromagnetic spectra. Many of the inorganic materials such as copper, mercury, various metal oxides and some minerals exhibit the photochromic phenomenon (Van Gemert, 1999a, b). However, their use is considered inappropriate for textile materials and substrates. Organic molecules such as spiropyrans, spirooxazines and fulgides are suitable for use on


of the solvatochromic compounds are metallic complexes - Ionochromism – change in colour of a compound is ion induced

agents i.e. toxic gasses, detergents etc.




form of chromism

moisture

al., 2010; Maeda, S. 1999).





**3. Photochromism** 


textiles (Bouas-Laurent & Dürr 2001).

Described as such, the system bears all the necessary qualities of a smart textile. It is capable of alerting and protecting the wearer from the very specific threat as it has been specifically designed, calibrated and optimized.

From the textile engineer's, namely dyer's point of viewing things, not much has changed. Only the concept of "colour all the time" has changed to "colour at the right time" principle, which may be observed as one of the options of giving leverage to textile companies in search of means and ends of once again reclaiming the leader status on the worldwide market.
