**7. Conclusions**

There is high level of pattern making systems. Modern computer aided designing software provides the possibility to avoid small operations and manual work, to raise precision, productivity and organize information flow. The usage of garment designing systems excludes the time consuming manual preparation of patterns, creation of layouts and relocation of written information. The computer systems are meant for the execution of every single process and the integration of all processes into one joint flow, for the organization of logistics and the mobility of work tasks. Computer systems allow making two dimensional as well as three dimensional product illustrations and visualizations. It is possible to create computer aided garment constructions, as well as gradations, and create a virtual first pattern of the model - such computer aided operations significantly decrease the time consumption and cost necessary to design a product. The costs of the product itself can be calculated with the help of the product management systems following the development parameters, the layout of patterns, textile expenditure, model complexity and specification, as well as previous experience of the company stored in a data base.

Although computer systems significantly facilitate the development of a product, the knowledge and skill of the user are still very important. One of the most important garment creation stages is constructing. Constructing is the reproduction of a spatial model (clothing) on a plane (construction); this transformation has to be reflexive when joining the parts of the construction a garment is originated. The creation of the drafts of the construction is the most complicated and responsible stage of garment designing, because a non-existent complicated spatial shape product surface layout has to be created (drawn). One of the most topical problems in garment designing has always been the search of garment designing methods scientifically reasoned, precise and as little as possible time and labour consuming. Several factors depend on a precise development of garment surface layout – material expenditure, garment set quality, labour intensity level, the aesthetical and hygienic characteristics of the finished product.

the human body necessary for scanning changes the external characteristics of the body and makes it inadequate for the natural posture. Human Solutions GmbH, one of the world's leading laser scanner producers, solves this problem by scanning people in a free, stately, unconstrained posture, detaching the extremities form each other and from the torso with the help of calculations afterwards. This method can have drawbacks in cases when due to the specific weight of the soft tissues the extremities of the person not only fit close to each

The creation of such a realistic reproduction of the human body allows developing services available in the e-environment. For instance in the spring of 2011 the company Human Solutions (Germany) presented a virtual mirror that reflects the scanned virtual twin of a person which can be used to fit the chosen garment and evaluate the set. Although there are different e-commerce catalogues available in the computer environment, this type of fitting is a novelty and is expected to be a great success since the bothersome and exhausting garment fitting process is excluded. Ditto Vidya Human Solutions in cooperation with Assyst 3D have developed an innovative 3D system, that not only allows virtual "sewing", fitting and evaluation of a garment, but also define the technological placement of seam ease

There is high level of pattern making systems. Modern computer aided designing software provides the possibility to avoid small operations and manual work, to raise precision, productivity and organize information flow. The usage of garment designing systems excludes the time consuming manual preparation of patterns, creation of layouts and relocation of written information. The computer systems are meant for the execution of every single process and the integration of all processes into one joint flow, for the organization of logistics and the mobility of work tasks. Computer systems allow making two dimensional as well as three dimensional product illustrations and visualizations. It is possible to create computer aided garment constructions, as well as gradations, and create a virtual first pattern of the model - such computer aided operations significantly decrease the time consumption and cost necessary to design a product. The costs of the product itself can be calculated with the help of the product management systems following the development parameters, the layout of patterns, textile expenditure, model complexity and specification,

Although computer systems significantly facilitate the development of a product, the knowledge and skill of the user are still very important. One of the most important garment creation stages is constructing. Constructing is the reproduction of a spatial model (clothing) on a plane (construction); this transformation has to be reflexive when joining the parts of the construction a garment is originated. The creation of the drafts of the construction is the most complicated and responsible stage of garment designing, because a non-existent complicated spatial shape product surface layout has to be created (drawn). One of the most topical problems in garment designing has always been the search of garment designing methods scientifically reasoned, precise and as little as possible time and labour consuming. Several factors depend on a precise development of garment surface layout – material expenditure, garment set quality, labour intensity level, the aesthetical and hygienic

allowances, the pocket spread and even evaluate the functionality of button snap.

as well as previous experience of the company stored in a data base.

characteristics of the finished product.

other and the torso but are so close that they misshape each other.

**7. Conclusions** 

The specialists in the different fields are interested in reproducing of human figure in a virtual environment: designers, what uses information of ergonomics (engineering, interior design), animation creators, and also medicine and apparel designers. There is a chain of problems in the production of clothes which is related to the features of the figure of a customer to get maximally conformable clothes. It is very important to have exact human body measurements without significant mistakes for garment construction. The traditional mass production ever decreases the volumes of series, the production becomes more elastic and the choice of goods expands; the wear time decreases. Along with the serial production, individual production becomes more and more popular. The current economic situation shifts the search for labour more and more to the East, but the creation of individually oriented products could make it possible to maintain working places and production units in Europe. People will be willing to pay more for this type of clothing and receive it in a possibly short term. Thereby the promotion of individualized production is affected by social and economic aspects.

The research of scientists regarding the improvement and development of 3D garment designing is directed into different directions:

The development of mass customization process schemes;

The development of a virtual twin;

The study of coherence and definition of projection ease allowances;

The improvement of fabric visualization means.

The garment production companies mostly support the development of the company and the introduction of CAD/CAM systems, since these ensure a higher product quality, higher productivity, humanization of the working process, a more elastic production process and process control. Nevertheless the distribution and introduction of computerized systems in companies of all levels (small and large) can be a problem because of the system costs as well as the incompetence of the employees.

#### **8. References**


Virtual Garment Creation 69

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**4** 

*1,2Spain 3,4Brazil* 

**Human Visual Field and Navigational Strategies** 

J. Antonio Aznar-Casanova1,2, Nelson Torro-Alves3 and José A. da Silva4

Spatial navigation is an important cognitive ability which has contributed to the survival of animal species by allowing them to locate sources of the food, water and shelter (Epstein, 2008). In order to navigate, animals and humans use environmental landmarks as references to calculate their own position and the location of targets in the environment. In such cases, landmarks are used to estimate distances and directions of objects and targets (for a review

In a classic study, Morris (1981) demonstrated that rats could locate an object that they were unable to see, hear or touch by using spatial landmarks. In the test situation, rats learned to escape from the water by swimming to an invisible platform located under the water line. Subsequent tests done without the platform corroborated those findings. Further research using a virtual version of the Morris water maze showed that humans use landmarks in a similar way to locate a hidden goal (Astur, et al., 1998). Similarly, Chamizo et al. (2003) and Artigas et al. (2005) used virtual reality environments in order to study spatial navigation

Two experimental procedures have been commonly used to study human and animal spatial navigation based on landmarks. After a training period in which individuals learn to navigate to locate a target, the experimenter changes the experimental setting by 1) increasing the distance between landmarks (Tinbergen, 1972) or 2) removing one or more

Collett et al. (1986) studied spatial navigation in gerbils by training them to find hidden food in an arena. As shown in Figure 1A, food was located between two identical landmarks. After learning acquisition, trials were done without food. When tested in the presence of only one landmark (removing procedure), the gerbils searched for food on the left and right sides of the landmark, maintaining the corresponding distance and direction from it (Figure 1B). In a second test, the distance between landmarks was increased (expanding procedure) and the gerbils searched for food in two different locations but also maintained distance and direction with regard to the landmarks (Figure 1C). Collet et al. (1986) concluded that gerbils

of landmark navigation in vertebrates see Rozhok, 2008).

landmarks from the environment (Collett, et al., 1986).

**1. Introduction** 

characteristics in humans.

*1Faculty of Psychology, University of Barcelona, 2Institute for Brain, Cognition and Behaviour (IR3C),* 

> *3Universidade Federal da Paraíba, João Pessoa, 4Universidade de São Paulo, Ribeirão Preto,*

