**5.3.5 Fabric thickness**

Fig.27 shows fabric thickness of gray and finished fabrics with various looms.

As shown in Fig.27, the variation of the fabric thickness after continuous finishing ( ) did not show anymore among various looms and right, center and left sides on the same fabric. But for the discrete finishing ( ), these variation was shown among looms and according to the position on the fabric. This shows that finishing process is still important like weaving tension for the control of even fabric thickness.

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

looms.

Warp tension(gf)

L 1 1 0 2 0 3 0

Fig. 28. Warp tension according to the warp position.

4 0 5 0 6 0 7 0 8 0

(a) Omega (b) Picanol

Fig. 29. The graph of warp yarn tension of OMEGA and Picanol rapier looms.

9 0

W a rp p o s itio n (c m )

8 0 7 0 6 0 5 0 4 0 3 0

2 0

P IC A N O L O M E G A

> 1 0

R 1

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 79

center parts of the loom were higher than those of both edges of fabric. It is explained that the filling yarn in the middle was held firm and tightly stretched by both sides, as it has to be beaten into the warp ends, in the edge zones, the filling can relax a little from the selvedge, the extent of relax is dependent on the filling insertion system, temples and the selvedge clap, as a result, the filling is woven in a little less firmly in the middle than at the selvedges, this means that they must bind more firmly in the center than at the edges, however the length of all the warp ends coming from the warp beam are practically the same length, those in the middle must elongated more. And it is shown that the average warp tension on center area of the Omega loom is 40~45gf and 35~40gf for Picanol loom, on edge part of the Omega loom is 30~35gf, 25~30gf for Picanol loom, so Omega loom shows 15~20gf higher tension than that of Picanol loom. In addition, high tension variation on edge part of Omega loom is shown, on the other hand tension variation on center part of Picanol loom is also shown. Fig. 29 shows real warp tension variations of Omega and Picanol looms, respectively. It is shown that Omega's warp yarn tension is much higher than that of Picanol. And 4 successive peaks and one high peak are shown both Omega and Picanol

Fig. 27. The fabric thickness according to the various looms.
