**3.2.2 Finishing process of the PET fabrics**

These grey fabrics woven by two rapier looms were processed on the finishing process which is shown in Table 12.


Table 12. Finishing processes and conditions

PET fabrics were woven using 2 kinds of rapier looms (Omega® and Picanol®) for analysing the tension differences and fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences. Table 10 shows weave design of woven fabrics. Table 11 shows the

structure

5 Harness

Weft 86pick/in

Division OMEGA (Textec, Korea) PICANOL-GTX (Belgium)

Let off motion

These grey fabrics woven by two rapier looms were processed on the finishing process

Temperature : 60-95-60℃

Process Condition Cylinder dryer 130 ℃ × 60 m/min Scouring Speed : 35 m/min ,

Pre-setting 210 ℃ × 27 m/min Dyeing 130 ℃ × 40 min Final-setting 210 ℃ × 30 m/min

Maximum RPM 520 580 Maximum reed width 2100 (mm) 1900 (mm) Harness motion Electronic dobby Electronic dobby Let off motion Electronic let off Electronic let off

 **and** 

42D ×4 =168end/in Pick:

Density/inch Remark

Pick find motion Let off motion

Grey Finished

168 261

86 98

**3.2.1 Weaving of PET filament fabrics by 2 kinds of rapier looms (Omega®**

composition Yarn count Fabric

100D/192F + 30D spandex covering

100 % 75D / 36F

Microprocessor Pick find motion

Table 11. The characteristics of loom used in this study

**3.2.2 Finishing process of the PET fabrics** 

Table 12. Finishing processes and conditions

**3.2 Polyester filament fabrics** 

characteristics of two rapier looms.

Polyester 93.5 % Polyurethane 6.5 %

Table 10. Specification of weave design

Loom

Fiber

Warp Polyester

note: running speed : 470rpm

which is shown in Table 12.

**Picanol®**

**)** 

#### **3.2.3 Weaving of PET filament fabrics on the 2 kinds of rapier looms (Omega® and Vamatex® )**

For surveying the tension differences between Omega and Vamatex looms and analysing fabric mechanical properties using KES-FB system according to warp and weft tension differences, fabric was designed as 5 harness satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and was woven by Omega**®**-Panter rapier loom by Textec Co. Ltd and P1001es rapier loom by Vamatex Co. Ltd., respectively.

These grey fabrics were processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes which was shown in Table 12. Weavability was also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame was surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions was also discussed.

Table 13 shows specification of weave pattern. Table 14 and Fig. 3 show the characteristics of rapier looms used in this study.


Table 13. Specification of weave pattern


Table 14. The characteristics of rapier looms used in this study

Fig. 3. Specification of test looms.

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

(2) shown in bellows. Warp shrinkage (%)

Weft shrinkage (%)

**4.2.1 Fabric thickness** 

10cm

10cm

20cm

shown in Fig. 8.

edge

edge

**4.1.3 Process shrinkages on the warp and weft directions** 

**4.2 Measurement of fabric physical properties** 

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 65

Fabric shrinkages of PET on the warp and weft directions in the each step on the dyeing and finishing processes were calculated using warp and weft fabric densities as equation (1) and

<sup>=</sup>Weft density before process step — Weft density after process step 100 (1) Weft density before process step

<sup>=</sup>Fabric width before process step — Fabric width after process step 100 (2) Fabric width before process step

The positions for measuring fabric thickness to the direction of the fabric width and to the longitudinal direction on the right and left sides of the fabric were selected as shown in Fig. 6 and Fig. 7. The specimens for measuring fabric mechanical properties were prepared as

> 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

● 1 1 ●

․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ․ ● 10 10 ●

● edge 2 2 ●

Fig. 6. Measured points of thickness to the direction of the fabric width.

Fig. 7. Measured points of thickness on the right & left sides of Fabric

10cm

10cm

20cm

edge
