**3.1.2 Finishing process of the worsted fabrics**

The grey fabrics woven by rapier and air-jet looms were overlocked for processing in the finishing process simultaneously. Table 3 shows the finishing process and its condition.


Table 3. Finishing processes and conditions

The specimens for measuring fabric mechanical properties were prepared by grey and finished fabrics woven by rapier and air-jet looms, respectively. Table 4 shows preparation of specimens and Fig. 1 shows the position on the fabrics related to the specimen number shown in the Table 4. 5 kinds of specimens were selected as one center position and 4 sides positions.


Table 4. Preparation of specimen.

58 Woven Fabrics

Worsted fabrics specimens were woven using Picanol rapier loom(model GTX-4-R) and airjet loom(model PAT-4-R-A), respectively. Table 1 shows loom characteristics used for making fabric specimens and Table 2 shows fabric design related to the yarn and fabric

**Loom characteristics Rapier GTX-4-R Air jet PAT-4-R-A** Harness motion Electronic dobby Electronic dobby

electronic control

Max. diameter : 600mm Range of density : 4.5~340ppi

**(tpm)**

Wp Z770/

Processes **Conditions**

Continuous crabbing 80℃, 90℃, 95℃, 95℃, 95℃, 20℃

Kier decatizing 19 m/min., pressure 30 kg/㎠

Sewing for making sack 12 mm/stitch

Continuous decatizing 20 m/min.

S830

The grey fabrics woven by rapier and air-jet looms were overlocked for processing in the finishing process simultaneously. Table 3 shows the finishing process and its condition.

Gas singeing 100 m/min., gas 9 bar, both side singed

Scouring Soaping for 20 min., rinsing for 30 min.,

Shearing 20 m/min., 2 times for surface, once for back

Weft insertion Rapier Main nozzle & relay nozzle

Micro processor Pick finding, let off tension Pick finding, let off tension

**Fabric structure**

5 harness, satin

Soaping for 45 min., rinsing for 50 min.

Wf Wf Wf 220 224.4

Let off continuously with electronic control

Max. diameter : 600mm Range of density : 5.8~183ppi

> **Density (per 10 Cm) Grey fabric**

Wp 338 376.9

**Finished fabric**

**3.1.1 Weaving of worsted fabrics on the air-jet and rapier looms** 

Let off motion Let off continuously with

**composition Yarn count Yarn twist** 

**3.1.2 Finishing process of the worsted fabrics** 

Table 3. Finishing processes and conditions

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Wool 100% Wp Nm

Table 2. Specification of weave design

Table 1. The Characteristics of loom used for making the specimen.

**3. Experimental 3.1 Worsted fabrics** 

structural parameters.

Winding grey fabrics system

**Fiber** 

Fig. 1. Sampling position of specimen.
