**5. Implementation of integration**

At the very beginning, a consumer is usually attracted by the appearance of a fabric, which is related to the weave structure and the colors of the warp and weft yarns. Next, the characteristics, e.g., the permeability, the thickness, the tenacity, the elongation et al. of the fabric are required to be taken into consideration. Finally, the price of the fabric is used as an evaluation basis, by comparing which to the above-mentioned items (i.e., the outlook and the characteristics), the value of the fabric can thus be defined and determined.

Figure 8 illustrates the integration schemes of design and production for woven fabric. There are two search mechanisms included in the developed system, one is used to search for the weave structure, and the other is for the weaving parameters. The desired outlooks presented by the weave structure and the layout of color yarns can be generated and determined by using the weave structure module. The search for unknown combination of weaving parameters (i.e., N1, N2, n1, and n2) based on a preset cost consideration (i.e., total weight of material yarn) can proceed under both known width and length of a loom.

For instance, the outlook demand for weave structure pattern (i.e., a pattern style of regular grid and interlacing twist) is listed as shown in Table5 and that for production cost (i.e., fabric weight = 58 lb) is illustrated in Table 3. Firstly, in terms of designing a required

Fig. 8. Integration schemes of design and production for woven fabric

innovative weave structure, in order to obtain an integrated pattern of the appearance of above-mentioned characteristics, three basic patterns (as shown in Figure1a, 1c, and 1e) of the eight ones provided by the system, which are of some sorts of required characteristics and are more similar to the desired pattern, are given higher scores (i.e., fitness values) as 0.8, 0.8, and 1.0 respectively than the other five ones. After proceeding with several generations of evolution, there comes up with a satisfying solution as shown in Figure 6(B)a, the amplified of which is illustrated in Figure 7, for the desired pattern style. Secondly, as for finding a manufacturing solution to meet the cost demand (i.e., desired weight of 58 lb) of the fabric, the search mechanism for weaving parameters can help determine the combinations of weaving parameters (i.e., N1, N2, n1, and n2). The searched results of tenth generation are listed in Table 4, from which a designer can easily pick out the solution (i.e., N1=52.0, N2=22.7, n1=70.7, n2=70.7) of maximum fitness 0.7531, which can closely meet the weight demand of 58 lb while manufacturing. Through the assistance of this system, the design and production divisions can thus be integrated together.

#### **6. Conclusions**

50 Woven Fabrics

depending on his own preference. Figure 7 is the pattern for the amplified weave structure of Figure 6B(a). There is none of complete warp (or weft) float in the horizontal or vertical direction of the weave structures as shown in Figure 6B. Thus, the practical use of these generated weave structures can be ensured. Furthermore, in case none of them is satisfied, the designer can still continue proceeding with the GA for another generation till there is a

Fig. 7. Simulation pattern of the 1st chromosome for the first generation

Weft

Warp

At the very beginning, a consumer is usually attracted by the appearance of a fabric, which is related to the weave structure and the colors of the warp and weft yarns. Next, the characteristics, e.g., the permeability, the thickness, the tenacity, the elongation et al. of the fabric are required to be taken into consideration. Finally, the price of the fabric is used as an evaluation basis, by comparing which to the above-mentioned items (i.e., the outlook and the characteristics), the value of the fabric can thus be defined and

Figure 8 illustrates the integration schemes of design and production for woven fabric. There are two search mechanisms included in the developed system, one is used to search for the weave structure, and the other is for the weaving parameters. The desired outlooks presented by the weave structure and the layout of color yarns can be generated and determined by using the weave structure module. The search for unknown combination of weaving parameters (i.e., N1, N2, n1, and n2) based on a preset cost consideration (i.e., total weight of material yarn) can proceed under both known width and length of a

For instance, the outlook demand for weave structure pattern (i.e., a pattern style of regular grid and interlacing twist) is listed as shown in Table5 and that for production cost (i.e., fabric weight = 58 lb) is illustrated in Table 3. Firstly, in terms of designing a required

desired one can be obtained.

**5. Implementation of integration** 

determined.

loom.

In this study, an integrated system of design and production for woven fabric is proposed. There are two search mechanisms included in the integrated system. One is for the search of weaving parameters and is of an excellent search capacity to allow the fabric designer to obtain the best combinations of weaving parameters during manufacturing, considering costs. The other is for that of weave structure and can efficiently find appropriate combination sets of the pattern parameters, such as the weave structure (i.e., WS), the layout of colors for warp yarns (i.e., Cwarp), and that for weft yarns (i.e., Cweft1~Cweft8), during pattern design. A fabric designer can efficiently determine what the colors of the warp (weft) yarn and the weave structure should be adopted to manufacture satisfying fabric without the advance sample manufacturing. Both the time and cost consuming for sample

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manufacturing during design stage can be eliminated now. Moreover, the problem of running out of inspiration for a designer can be solved through the system's assistance as well. With the assistance of the developed integration system proposed in this study, the integration between design division and production one can be achieved. Thus, the competence of an enterprise can increase in the mean time.
