**5.5.1 Comparison between Picanol and Omega**

Fig. 36 shows the diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between Picanol and Omega looms. It is shown that the tensile properties in the warp direction of the fabrics woven by Omega loom were higher than those of woven by Picanol loom, the same phenomena in bending properties were shown, which seems to be due to the higher warp tension of the Omega than Picanol loom. But that tendency was not shown in the weft direction. That phenomena shows that warp yarn tension during weaving on Omega loom affects fabric tensile and bending properties, on the other hand, weft yarn tension on Picanol loom does not affect so much. Contrary to the tensile and bending properties, the shear properties of the fabrics in the warp direction woven by Picanol loom was higher than that of woven by Omega loom, but, in the weft direction, the fabric shear properties woven by Omega loom was much higher than that of Picanol loom. And there was no difference of the compression properties between fabrics woven by Picanol and Omega looms. This result demonstrates that shear deformation of fabrics was combined with deformation of warp and weft yarns, high warp yarn tension during weaving on the Omega loom makes low shear rigidity and shear friction of the fabrics in the warp direction, and high weft yarn tension during weaving on the Picanol loom makes low shear rigidity and shear friction of the fabrics in the weft direction.

Fig. 36. The diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between Picanol and Omera looms.( Picanol: shadow(100%), — : Omega)

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

deteriorating.

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

Thickness (m m )

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 85

Omega, which makes homogeneity of the fabric hand and tailorability of garment

O M E G A (left) O M E G A (right) P IC A N O L (left) P IC A N O L (rig ht)

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0 1 1 Fabric positions on the w arp direction

Fig. 38. The thickness variation on the right and left and sides of the finished fabrics.

(a) warp direction (b) weft direction (c) warp direction (Omega)

(d) weft direction (Omega) (e) warp direction (Picanol) (d) weft direction (Picanol)

Fig. 39. Fabric surface properties according to the looms and fabric positions.

Fig. 37 shows the diagram of the fabric mechanical properties between Picanol and Omega according to the fabric positions.

Fig. 37. The diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between Picanol and Omega according to the fabric positions.(center : shadow(100%), — : left, … : right)

As shown in Fig. 37, concerning the tensile properties according to the fabric position such as right, center and left sides, the fabric woven by Omega loom doesn't show big difference of mechanical properties according to the fabric position, but Picanol shows big difference according to the fabric position compared with Omega. In addition, comparing Fig. 37 (a) and (c) in warp direction and Fig. 37 (b) and (d) in weft direction, the differences of the fabric mechanical properties according to the position of the fabrics woven by Picanol were higher than those of the fabrics woven by Omega loom.

It seems to be originated from high fluctuation of warp and weft yarn tensions of Picanol loom during weaving as shown in Fig. 28 and 29. Especially, the shear properties variation according to the position of the fabric woven by Picanol was larger than that of

Fig. 37 shows the diagram of the fabric mechanical properties between Picanol and Omega

(a) warp direction (Omega) (b) weft direction (Omega)

(c) warp direction (Picanol) (d) weft direction (Picanol) Fig. 37. The diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between Picanol and Omega

As shown in Fig. 37, concerning the tensile properties according to the fabric position such as right, center and left sides, the fabric woven by Omega loom doesn't show big difference of mechanical properties according to the fabric position, but Picanol shows big difference according to the fabric position compared with Omega. In addition, comparing Fig. 37 (a) and (c) in warp direction and Fig. 37 (b) and (d) in weft direction, the differences of the fabric mechanical properties according to the position of the fabrics woven by Picanol were

It seems to be originated from high fluctuation of warp and weft yarn tensions of Picanol loom during weaving as shown in Fig. 28 and 29. Especially, the shear properties variation according to the position of the fabric woven by Picanol was larger than that of

according to the fabric positions.(center : shadow(100%), — : left, … : right)

higher than those of the fabrics woven by Omega loom.

according to the fabric positions.

Omega, which makes homogeneity of the fabric hand and tailorability of garment deteriorating.

Fig. 38. The thickness variation on the right and left and sides of the finished fabrics.

(d) weft direction (Omega) (e) warp direction (Picanol) (d) weft direction (Picanol) Fig. 39. Fabric surface properties according to the looms and fabric positions.

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

are affected by both warp and weft tensions.

looms.

**6. Conclusion** 

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 87

(a) warp direction (b) weft direction Fig. 41. The diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between Vamatex and Omega

As shown in Fig. 41 (a), tensile energy (WT), and extensibility (EM) of the fabric woven by Omega were much higher than those by Vamatex on the warp direction, which seems to be due to high warp tension of the Omega loom which was shown in Fig. 33. But, this phenomena was not shown on the weft direction as shown in Fig. 41 (b), which seems to be due to the same on the weft tension between Vamatex and Omega looms which was shown in Fig. 35. The tensile resilience of Vamatex was a little higher than that of Omega, which means that elastic recovery of fabric woven by Vamatex is better than that by Omega. It was shown that the bending rigidity of fabric woven by Omega was a little higher than that by Vamatex, which is also due to high weaving tension of Omega loom which was shown in Fig. 33, Any difference of fabric shear property between Omega and Vamatex was not shown and also was not shown in fabric compressional property. These results demonstrate that fabric tensile and bending properties are affected by warp yarn tension of loom, fabric shear and compressional properties are not affected by only warp tension, which properties

Linear relationship between warp yarn tension and shed amount of loom for the worsted fabric was shown. Warp yarn tension variation for the worsted fabric between edge sides of fabric and center of fabric was above about 20gf, the highest at center part and the lowest at the right side as viewed in front of loom. These shed amount and warp yarn tension affect extensibility and bending rigidity of finished fabrics, i.e. the higher warp yarn tension and the lower shed amount, the more extensible gray fabric. The warp extensibility of finished fabric for the continuous and discrete finishing showed big difference, the variation of warp extensibility among various looms by continuous finishing was smaller than that of discrete finishing. Warp bending rigidity of gray fabric woven under low warp yarn tension showed

Fig. 38 shows the thickness variation on the right and left sides of the finished fabrics on the 10 positions of the fabric warp direction. As shown in Fig.38, one or two positions along fabric warp direction on the right and left sides of the fabric showed a little thick positions comparing to the other positions of the fabrics woven by both Picanol and Omega looms.

Fig. 39 shows fabric surface properties between Picanol and Omega looms and according to the fabric positions such as right, left and center. As shown in Fig. 39, MIU(coefficient of friction) and MMD(deviation of MIU) of the fabrics woven by Omega was lower than those by Picanol loom but, SMD(surface roughness) showed higher value than Picanol. But especially the differences of these values according to the fabric positions were much higher than those of looms.

#### **5.5.2 Comparison between Vamatex and Omega**

Fig. 40 shows diagram of process shrinkage of the warp and weft directions according to loom on the each dyeing and finishing processes.

As shown in Fig. 40, any differences of each process shrinkages between Vamatex and Omega could not find, which means that two grey fabrics woven by Vamatex and Omega were proceeded at the same process conditions on the dyeing and finishing processes. It can be seen that 20% of weave contraction was occurred and 30% thermal shrinkage after scouring and drying was occurred, and 12% relaxing expansion on the pre-set, dyeing and final set was occurred.

Fig. 40. Shrinkage of the fabrics according to the weaving machine.

Fig. 41 shows comparison diagram of fabric mechanical properties between Vamatex and Omega, which shows relative values of fabric woven by Omega to the mechanical properties of the fabric woven by Vamatex.

Fig. 41. The diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between Vamatex and Omega looms.

As shown in Fig. 41 (a), tensile energy (WT), and extensibility (EM) of the fabric woven by Omega were much higher than those by Vamatex on the warp direction, which seems to be due to high warp tension of the Omega loom which was shown in Fig. 33. But, this phenomena was not shown on the weft direction as shown in Fig. 41 (b), which seems to be due to the same on the weft tension between Vamatex and Omega looms which was shown in Fig. 35. The tensile resilience of Vamatex was a little higher than that of Omega, which means that elastic recovery of fabric woven by Vamatex is better than that by Omega. It was shown that the bending rigidity of fabric woven by Omega was a little higher than that by Vamatex, which is also due to high weaving tension of Omega loom which was shown in Fig. 33, Any difference of fabric shear property between Omega and Vamatex was not shown and also was not shown in fabric compressional property. These results demonstrate that fabric tensile and bending properties are affected by warp yarn tension of loom, fabric shear and compressional properties are not affected by only warp tension, which properties are affected by both warp and weft tensions.
