**3.1.3 Weaving of the worsted fabrics on the projectile and air-jet looms**

For surveying the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analysing the mechanical properties of the worsted fabrics for emotional garment with relation of these two looms characteristics, worsted fabric specimens were woven using projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. Table 5 shows looms characteristics used in this experiment. Table 6 shows specification of weave pattern.

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

Table 7.

Fiber Composition

WP wool 93% nylon 7%

as shown in Fig. 2.

Fig. 2. Preparation of specimens for KES-FB System test.

Yarn count (Nm, tpm)

1/40, 770

Microprocessor pick find

Table 9. The characteristics of loom used for the test

Table 8. Specification of weave pattern

Division

sirofil <sup>5</sup>

**3.1.5 Weaving of the worsted fabrics on the three kinds of rapier looms** 

Fabric structure

harness satin

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 61

For surveying the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyzing the mechanical properties of these worsted fabrics for emotional garment with relation of these 3 kinds of rapier looms characteristics, 5 harness satin weave worsted fabrics were woven using FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and Picanol-GTX looms, respectively. Table 8 shows the specification of weave pattern of these worsted fabrics. Table 9 shows the characteristics of these 3 kinds of looms. Finishing process was same as shown in

Density

fabric finished

grey

Length: 97.5m 96.5y 91.0y WF Wool 100% 1/30, 1020 268 283

R P M 520 550 580 Reed width (mm) 2200 2100 1900

Harness motion electronic dobby electronic dobby electronic dobby Weft insertion rapier rapier rapier Let-off motion Electronic let-off Electronic let-off Electronic let-off

Range of picking (mm) 4.8 - 282 7.6 - 198 4.5 - 340

The sampling position on the fabrics for measuring fabric mechanical properties was same

let off m/o

(per 10cm) Remark

Loom FAST-R THEMA-11-E PICANOL-GTX

> pick find let off m/o

378 421 WP: 18D×5=90ends WF:

68picks Width: 70.3″66.0″59.0″

> pick find let off m/o


Table 5. The characteristics of looms used for the test


Table 6. Specification of weave pattern
