**1.1 Elements of fabric structure**

Plain weave has the simplest repeating unit of interlacement. It also has the maximum possible frequency of interlacements. Plain weave fabrics are firm and resist yarn slippage. Figure 1 shows plain weave in plan view and in cross-section along warp and weft. The weave representation is shown by a grid in which vertical lines represent warp and horizontal lines represent weft. Each square represents the crossing of an end and a pick. A mark in a square indicates that the end is over the pick at the corresponding place in the fabric that is warp up. A blank square indicates that the pick is over the end that is weft up. One repeat of the weave is indicated by filled squares and the rest by crosses. The plain weave repeats on two ends and two picks.

Fig. 1. Plan (A), Weave representation (B) Cross-sectional view along warp (D) Crosssectional view along weft (C) for plain weave

#### **1.2 Regular and irregular weaves**

#### **1.2.1 Regular weaves**

Regular weaves (Grosicki, 1988) give a uniform and specific appearance to the fabric. The properties of the fabric for such weaves can be easily predicted. Examples of some of the common regular weaves are given in figure 2.

Fig. 2. Regular weaves

2 Woven Fabrics

picks with each other produces a coherent and stable structure. The repeating unit of interlacement is called the weave (Robinson & Marks, 1973). The structure and properties of a woven fabric are dependent upon the constructional parameters as thread density,

The present chapter establishes some interesting mathematical relationships between these constructional parameters so as to enable the fabric designer and researcher to have a clear understanding of the engineering aspects of woven fabrics. This is an attempt to transform from an experience based designing into an engineered approach to model woven fabric

Plain weave has the simplest repeating unit of interlacement. It also has the maximum possible frequency of interlacements. Plain weave fabrics are firm and resist yarn slippage. Figure 1 shows plain weave in plan view and in cross-section along warp and weft. The weave representation is shown by a grid in which vertical lines represent warp and horizontal lines represent weft. Each square represents the crossing of an end and a pick. A mark in a square indicates that the end is over the pick at the corresponding place in the fabric that is warp up. A blank square indicates that the pick is over the end that is weft up. One repeat of the weave is indicated by filled squares and the rest by crosses. The plain

Fig. 1. Plan (A), Weave representation (B) Cross-sectional view along warp (D) Cross-

Regular weaves (Grosicki, 1988) give a uniform and specific appearance to the fabric. The properties of the fabric for such weaves can be easily predicted. Examples of some of the

yarn fineness, crimp, weave etc.

**1.1 Elements of fabric structure** 

weave repeats on two ends and two picks.

sectional view along weft (C) for plain weave

common regular weaves are given in figure 2.

**1.2 Regular and irregular weaves** 

**1.2.1 Regular weaves** 

constructions.
