**2. The importance of the fabric mechanical properties for emotional garment's formability**

The fabric formability of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics widely used for suit garment for men and women is very important physical property. Formability is defined as ability of the fabric to be re-shaped from a plane fabric to the 3D form of clothing(Pavlinic, 2006). Fabric formability was predicted by many researchers(Lindeberg, 1960; Niwa et al, 1998; Shishoo, 1989; Postle & Dhingra, 1989; Ly et al, 1991). And fabric mechanical properties were used in the predicting fabric formability by Lindberg et al(Lindeberg, 1960), Niwa et al(Niwa, 1998), Yokura et al(Yokura, 1990) and Morooka et al(Morooka & Niwa, 1978). Lindberg formerly proposed formability by fabric bending and compression properties.

But, many equations related to the garment formability were suggested after developing KES-FB and FAST systems which are measuring devices of fabric mechanical properties.

Postle et al and Ly et al proposed formability equations using fabric mechanical properties measured by FAST system. Shishoo et al also suggested formability equation using KES-FB System. But, Niwa et al have published many papers related to the garment formability as a TAV(total appearance value) using fabric mechanical properties measured by KES-FB System.

tension on the air-jet loom was investigated using yarn tension meter(DEFAT) by Sabit Adanur and Jing Qi. Weft yarn tension was measured with yarn physical parameters such as yarn count, twist multiplier, yarn hairiness and yarn elongation. Fabric physical properties such as weight and thickness, air permeability, dimensional stability and abrasion resistance were analysed with average weft yarn tension of air-jet loom. Fabric stiffness, drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery were also measured and discussed with average weft yarn tension. Many weavers are using foreign looms made by Japan, and European countries such as Italy, Germany and Belzium. Especially, polyester fabrics woven by rapier looms show many defects such as thickness differences and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics. Many weavers are thinking that the physical properties of fabrics including these defects are also different between fabrics woven by these various kinds of looms. And they are wondering how is the tension difference among various looms and how is the difference of the fabric mechanical properties according to the looms and the fabric positions with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions on the various looms, respectively. But, any investigations about fabric physical properties according to the loom characteristics and about warp and weft tension variations according to the warp position among looms were not found yet. Therefore, this topic surveys the fabric physical properties according to the weaving looms, for this purpose, warp and filling yarn tensions during weaving were measured on the various looms and the fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences were analysed using KES-FB system. In addition, weavability was also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the looms and the warp position. And the relationship between shed amount and warp tension on one fixed heald frame was surveyed according to the various looms and also fabric thickness according to the fabric width was measured

for analysing fabric thickness variation with weaving loom characteristics.

**garment's formability** 

properties.

System.

**2. The importance of the fabric mechanical properties for emotional** 

The fabric formability of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics widely used for suit garment for men and women is very important physical property. Formability is defined as ability of the fabric to be re-shaped from a plane fabric to the 3D form of clothing(Pavlinic, 2006). Fabric formability was predicted by many researchers(Lindeberg, 1960; Niwa et al, 1998; Shishoo, 1989; Postle & Dhingra, 1989; Ly et al, 1991). And fabric mechanical properties were used in the predicting fabric formability by Lindberg et al(Lindeberg, 1960), Niwa et al(Niwa, 1998), Yokura et al(Yokura, 1990) and Morooka et al(Morooka & Niwa, 1978). Lindberg formerly proposed formability by fabric bending and compression

But, many equations related to the garment formability were suggested after developing KES-FB and FAST systems which are measuring devices of fabric mechanical properties.

Postle et al and Ly et al proposed formability equations using fabric mechanical properties measured by FAST system. Shishoo et al also suggested formability equation using KES-FB System. But, Niwa et al have published many papers related to the garment formability as a TAV(total appearance value) using fabric mechanical properties measured by KES-FB On the other hand, many researches about mechanical property of the woven fabric according to the yarn and fabric parameters were carried out using KE-FB and FAST systems (Oh & Kim,1993). Among them, the PET synthetic fabric mechanical properties according to weft filament yarn twists, yarn denier and fabric density were analysed and discussed with these yarn and fabric structural parameters. On the other hand, the worsted fabric mechanical properties according to the looms such as rapier and air jet were also analysed and discussed with weaving machine characteristics (Kim & Kang, 2004; Kim & Jung, 2005). Similar studies were also performed using the PET and PET/Tencel woven fabrics (Kim et al., 2004). The researches related to the fabric mechanical property according to the dyeing and finishing processes were also carried out (Kim et al., 1995; Oh et al., 1993). According to the these studies, many factors such as the fabric structural parameters and processing parameters on the weaving and dyeing and finishing processes affects on the fabric mechanical properties which are governing garment's physical properties. Among these process parameters, weaving process is one important process which affects the fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tensions during weaving.

On the other hand, the large companies for production of worsted fabric have sequential production line such as spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing processes, but some small companies have only one production line such as weaving, dyeing or finishing. So, large fabric lot processed in large companies is divided and delivered to the small companies by small fabric lot. Therefore, large quantity of fabrics are woven by various looms such as projectile, rapier and air-jet in various small weaving companies, and then, they are finished by various small finishing companies. It is known that these production system makes fabric physical properties such as hand, fabric thickness and shrinkage non-homogeneous. It is investigated that these non-homogeneity of the fabric physical properties may be originated from the difference of loom even though the loom setting is same.

Many researches related to the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were performed with relation to the stop marks on the fabrics. Among them, Helmut Weinsdörfer investigated that the distribution of the warp end tension over the warp width and how it is influenced by the weaving machine setting. This analysis carried out on the poplin fabric using Sulzer projectile loom and a comparative investigations performed on a downproof fabric using a flexible rapier loom with rod type temples and a projectile loom with needle temples. In addition, he studied warp yarn tension variation according to the shed geometry, warp brake setting and loom speed using narrow fabric loom(Jacob Muller). But these researches are only contributed to the weavability related to the mechanism of weaving machine, and there were no investigations about fabric physical properties according to the warp and weft tension differences on the positions of the fabrics such as center and edges and according to the different looms itself. Many weavers are using various kinds of looms made by Japan, and European countries such as Italy, Germany and Belzium. Especially, polyester fabrics woven by rapier looms show many defects such as thickness differences and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics. Many weavers are thinking that the physical properties of fabrics including these defects are also different between fabrics woven by various types of looms.

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

**Fabric Loom Sample** 

Rapier (a)

Air-jet (b)

Table 4. Preparation of specimen.

Fig. 1. Sampling position of specimen.

positions.

Ingray fabric (A)

pattern.

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 59

The specimens for measuring fabric mechanical properties were prepared by grey and finished fabrics woven by rapier and air-jet looms, respectively. Table 4 shows preparation of specimens and Fig. 1 shows the position on the fabrics related to the specimen number shown in the Table 4. 5 kinds of specimens were selected as one center position and 4 sides

1 Center

6 Center

**3.1.3 Weaving of the worsted fabrics on the projectile and air-jet looms** 

For surveying the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analysing the mechanical properties of the worsted fabrics for emotional garment with relation of these two looms characteristics, worsted fabric specimens were woven using projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. Table 5 shows looms characteristics used in this experiment. Table 6 shows specification of weave

**No. Remark Fabric Loom Sample** 

Rapier (a)

Air-jet (b)

2 Side 2 Side 3 Side 3 Side 4 Side 4 Side 5 Side 5 Side

7 Side 7 Side 8 Side 8 Side 9 Side 9 Side 10 Side 10 Side

Finished fabric (B)

**No. Remark**

1 Center

6 Center
