**5.1.2 Rapier looms**

66 Woven Fabrics

16 mechanical properties of gray and finished fabrics such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface woven from 7 kinds of looms were measured by KES-FB system.

Table 15 shows loom efficiency and stop number of each loom. Fig. 9 and 10 show rpm,

ctile SULZER-PU 300 85.5 8 100,000 34.1 21.0 4.9 8.2 61.6 14.4

500

67

**SULZER P-OMNI P-PAT**

OMNI 500 67.0 10 100,000 46.6 9.9 35.8 0.9 21.2 76.8

PAT 520 65.0 10 100,000 46.2 22.2 21.6 2.4 48.1 46.8

Pick Loom stop number Stop %

Hour Total Warp Weft Other Warp Weft

hour 5.3 3.2 0.8 1.3

hour 9.4 2.0 7.2 0.2

hour 9.4 4.4 4.4 0.5

520

65

Keeping looms /person

Table 15. Efficiency and stop number of weaving loom for the test

300

**0**

Fig. 9. Diagram between rpm and efficiency of various looms

**100**

**200**

**300**

**RPM, Efficiency(%)**

**400**

**500**

**600**

85.5

**RPM Efficiency(%)**

Fig. 8. Preparation of specimens for the test using KES-FB System

**4.2.2 Fabric mechanical properties** 

**5. Results and discussions** 

**5.1.1 Projectile and air-jet loom** 

Division Loom RPM Effi.

PICANOL-

PICANOL-

Proje-

Air - Jet

**5.1 Loom efficiency of worsted fabrics** 

efficiency and percentage of end break of Table 15.

Table 16 shows loom efficiency and stop number of each rapier looms. Fig. 11 and 12 show rpm, efficiency and percentage of end break of Table 16.


Table 16. Efficiency and stop number of weaving loom for the test

Fig. 11. Diagram between rpm and efficiency of test looms

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

Fig. 14. The graphs of warp yarn tension of two looms

peaks, on the other hand, Sulzer has one large peak.

preferably decreased with increasing shedding amount.

Shedding

Shedding

Shedding

Loom Heald

P-OMNI

> SUL-PU

P-PAT

Bar temple

Ring temple

weavability.

to the left of the loom.

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 69

Fig. 14. shows one cycle warp tension variation which was measured on the 15cm position

Projectile(SULZER) Air-jet(PICANOL)

The warp tension variation during one cycle of the Sulzer loom was ranged between 22gf and 52gf, but, Picanol loom was ranged from 6gf to 23gf and shows 4 kinds of successive

Table 17 shows shedding amount and warp tension of the each loom with bar and ring temple respectively. It was shown that warp tensions were slightly increased with increasing shedding amount in both Picanol Omni and PAT, But in Sulzer loom, is

position 1 2 3 4 5 Average Percentage Warp

amount(mm) 73 82 93 102 118 93.6 108.1

Tension(gf) 36 36 39 40 43 38.0 115.2

amount(mm) 85 86 86 90 88 89.0 102.8

Tension(gf) 66 65 58 59 56 60.8 184.2

amount(mm) 87 92 104 111 17 102.2 118.0

Tension(gf) 40 45 54 50 56 49.0 148.5

Fig. 15. shows relationship between warp yarn tension and shed amount of each looms.

As shown in Fig. 15, the shed amount of P-Omni loom with bar temple is larger than that of Sulzer loom with ring temple, but warp tension of P-Omni has lower value by 37% compared to Sulzer, and also has lower value by 23% compared to P-PAT loom. This phenomena demsnstrates that air-jet loom with bar temple can contribute to the increase of

Table 17. The shedding amount and warp tension of the test weaving looms

breakage Percentage

9.9 47.4

21.0 100.5

22.2 106.2

As shown in Table 16, warp breaks are much higher than weft breaks. It is shown that the loom efficiency of FAST is the highest. The reason why seems to be low rpm and low keeping loom per person of FAST loom. It is also seen in Fig. 11 and 12 that Picanol has high warp break and FAST has high weft break compared to other looms.

#### **5.2 Warp and weft tensions of the worsted fabrics according to the loom characteristics**

#### **5.2.1 Projectile and air-jet looms**

Fig. 13 shows warp tension variation according to the warp position on the Sulzer loom. As shown in Fig. 13, warp yarn tension variation on the vicinity of the center part of the fabric is higher than those of left and right parts of the fabrics and the tension of the right side of fabric is a little lower than that of left side of fabric. The warp yarn tension variation between right and left sides of fabric makes color difference between right and left of fabric, this phenomena deteriorates garment quality in clothing factory.

Fig. 13. Warp tension according to the warp position (SULZER Loom)

63

**FAST THEMA P-GTX**

As shown in Table 16, warp breaks are much higher than weft breaks. It is shown that the loom efficiency of FAST is the highest. The reason why seems to be low rpm and low keeping loom per person of FAST loom. It is also seen in Fig. 11 and 12 that Picanol has high

Fig. 13 shows warp tension variation according to the warp position on the Sulzer loom. As shown in Fig. 13, warp yarn tension variation on the vicinity of the center part of the fabric is higher than those of left and right parts of the fabrics and the tension of the right side of fabric is a little lower than that of left side of fabric. The warp yarn tension variation between right and left sides of fabric makes color difference between right and left of fabric,

76

14.9 9.1

**other weft warp**

24.6

12.4

68.8

Fig. 12. Percentage of end break of warp & weft to the three looms

warp break and FAST has high weft break compared to other looms.

this phenomena deteriorates garment quality in clothing factory.

Fig. 13. Warp tension according to the warp position (SULZER Loom)

**5.2 Warp and weft tensions of the worsted fabrics according to the loom** 

**0**

**characteristics** 

**5.2.1 Projectile and air-jet looms** 

**20**

**40**

**60**

**% of end break**

**80**

**100**

27 4.2 Fig. 14. shows one cycle warp tension variation which was measured on the 15cm position to the left of the loom.

Fig. 14. The graphs of warp yarn tension of two looms

The warp tension variation during one cycle of the Sulzer loom was ranged between 22gf and 52gf, but, Picanol loom was ranged from 6gf to 23gf and shows 4 kinds of successive peaks, on the other hand, Sulzer has one large peak.

Table 17 shows shedding amount and warp tension of the each loom with bar and ring temple respectively. It was shown that warp tensions were slightly increased with increasing shedding amount in both Picanol Omni and PAT, But in Sulzer loom, is preferably decreased with increasing shedding amount.


Table 17. The shedding amount and warp tension of the test weaving looms

Fig. 15. shows relationship between warp yarn tension and shed amount of each looms.

As shown in Fig. 15, the shed amount of P-Omni loom with bar temple is larger than that of Sulzer loom with ring temple, but warp tension of P-Omni has lower value by 37% compared to Sulzer, and also has lower value by 23% compared to P-PAT loom. This phenomena demsnstrates that air-jet loom with bar temple can contribute to the increase of weavability.

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

**5.2.2 Rapier loom** 

loom.

temple.

FAST, THEMA looms).

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 71

Fig. 17. shows warp tension variations at the full widths of the 3 types of looms (P-GTX,

As shown in Fig.17, warp tension variation of Picanol loom(P-GTX) attached with bar temple according to the position of loom width direction is smaller than those of FAST and THEMA looms attached with ring temples. It was shown that the warp tensions on central part of the looms is much higher than those on left and right sides of the looms both FAST and THEMA looms used by ring temples. The tension on the right side of the loom is about 10% lower than that on left side of the loom. Fig.18 shows one-cycle warp tension variation of the 3 types of rapier looms on the 15cm position from left side of the

Fig. 18. The graph of warp yarn tension on the three rapier looms.

weave pattern and 2/60Nm warp yarn count.

As shown in Fig.18, tension on FAST loom was distributed ranged between 25gf and 50gf, and ranged between 35gf and 49gf for THEMA loom, and ranged between 13gf and 28gf for Picanol. Especially, the tension variation on the Picanol loom revealed 4 types continuous small peaks and one large peak, of which weave design was 5 harness satin. For comparing warp tension variation according to the weave pattern, warp tension variation according to the loom position and loom types was measured on the 7th heald frame with 8 harness satin

**(b) (c) (a)**

Fig.19 shows warp tension variations on the THEMA and P-GTX looms. As shown in Fig.19 warp yarn tension of the 8 harness satin was much higher than those of 5 harness satin(Fig.13). It was shown that yarn tension change according to the warp position on the Picanol loom with bar temple was much less than that of the THEMA loom with ring

Fig. 15. Relation between warp yarn tension and amount of shed

Fig. 16 shows one cycle weft tension variation of Sulzer loom. As shown in Fig. 16, one peak is revealed by an instant tension during flying of projectile. The weft tension variations of ari-jet looms (P-PAT and P-Omni) could not measure because of much movement of nozzle.

Fig. 16. The graph of weft yarn tension of sulzer loom

Fig. 17. Warp tension according to the warp position
