**5.2.2 Rapier loom**

70 Woven Fabrics

**12345 Heald**

**Heald position**

Fig. 16 shows one cycle weft tension variation of Sulzer loom. As shown in Fig. 16, one peak is revealed by an instant tension during flying of projectile. The weft tension variations of ari-jet looms (P-PAT and P-Omni) could not measure because of much movement of nozzle.

> **L1 15 60 90 60 15 R 1 Warp position(cm)**

**P-GTX FAST THEMA**

**0**

**20**

**40**

**60**

**Shed amount(mm), Warp tension(gf)**

**80**

**100**

**120**

**140**

**P-OMNI Shed amount P-OMNI Warp tension SUL-PU Shed amount SUL-PU Warp tension P-PAT Shed amount P-PAT Warp tension**

Fig. 15. Relation between warp yarn tension and amount of shed

Fig. 16. The graph of weft yarn tension of sulzer loom

Fig. 17. Warp tension according to the warp position

**Warp tension(gf)**

Fig. 17. shows warp tension variations at the full widths of the 3 types of looms (P-GTX, FAST, THEMA looms).

As shown in Fig.17, warp tension variation of Picanol loom(P-GTX) attached with bar temple according to the position of loom width direction is smaller than those of FAST and THEMA looms attached with ring temples. It was shown that the warp tensions on central part of the looms is much higher than those on left and right sides of the looms both FAST and THEMA looms used by ring temples. The tension on the right side of the loom is about 10% lower than that on left side of the loom. Fig.18 shows one-cycle warp tension variation of the 3 types of rapier looms on the 15cm position from left side of the loom.

Fig. 18. The graph of warp yarn tension on the three rapier looms.

As shown in Fig.18, tension on FAST loom was distributed ranged between 25gf and 50gf, and ranged between 35gf and 49gf for THEMA loom, and ranged between 13gf and 28gf for Picanol. Especially, the tension variation on the Picanol loom revealed 4 types continuous small peaks and one large peak, of which weave design was 5 harness satin. For comparing warp tension variation according to the weave pattern, warp tension variation according to the loom position and loom types was measured on the 7th heald frame with 8 harness satin weave pattern and 2/60Nm warp yarn count.

Fig.19 shows warp tension variations on the THEMA and P-GTX looms. As shown in Fig.19 warp yarn tension of the 8 harness satin was much higher than those of 5 harness satin(Fig.13). It was shown that yarn tension change according to the warp position on the Picanol loom with bar temple was much less than that of the THEMA loom with ring temple.

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

Loom

temple FAST-R Shedding

Fig.21 shows histogram of these data.

THEMA-E

P-GTX Shedding

Shedding

Table 19. Weft tension and end break of weft on the 3 looms.

RPM

RPM, Weft

Picanol was highest.

Weft break

tension(g) ,

Weft tension

It was shown that loom rpm and weft tension are less correlated and end break of weft on the Picanol was less than those of FAST and THEMA even though weft yarn tension of

8.2 <sup>0</sup>

Fig. 21. Diagram between end break and yarn tension of weft to the three test looms.

Fig.22 shows one cycle weft tension variation on the 3 kinds of rapier looms.

84

Weft breakage

99

84

FAST

6.2

11.1

THEMA P-GTX

Bar temple

Ring

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 73

warp tension(gf) 31 31 32 34 37 - 33.0

warp tension(gf) 43 45 50 56 58 - 50.4

warp tension(gf) 47 50 54 - 51 53 51.0

Weft tension Max. 84 84 99 Min. 0 0 0 RPM 382 399 402 Break number of weft 8.2 11.1 6.2

402

399

382

Table 18. The shedding amount and warp tension of the test weaving looms

amount(mm) 77 84 91 98 102 - 90.4 31.7

amount(mm) 81 83 86 90 93 - 86.6 20.9

amount (mm) 76 79 88 - 100 105 89.6 28.4

Loom FAST-R THEMA-E PICANOL-GTX

Heald number 1 2 3 4 5 6 mean end break of

warp

Fig. 19. Warp tension variation of warp position according to the loom with temple.

Fig. 20. Relation between warp yarn tension and amount of shed.

Table 18 shows shedding amount and warp tension of the 3 types of rapier looms attached with bar and ring temples. Fig.20 shows these variations according to the heald frame.

As shown in Fig.20, shedding amount was increased from 1st heald frame to 6th one, and warp tension was also increased from 1st heald frame to 6th one, which means that warp tension is proportional to shedding amount. Table19 shows weft tension and end break of weft on the 3 kinds of rapier looms.

Fig. 19. Warp tension variation of warp position according to the loom with temple.

Fig. 20. Relation between warp yarn tension and amount of shed.

weft on the 3 kinds of rapier looms.

0

20

40

**Shed amount(mm), Warp tension(g)**

60

80

100

120

P-GTX Shed amount P-GTX Warp tension FAST-R Shed amount FAST-R Warp tension THEMA-E Shed amount THEMA-E Warp tension

Table 18 shows shedding amount and warp tension of the 3 types of rapier looms attached with bar and ring temples. Fig.20 shows these variations according to the heald frame.

1 2 3 4 5 Heald frame

As shown in Fig.20, shedding amount was increased from 1st heald frame to 6th one, and warp tension was also increased from 1st heald frame to 6th one, which means that warp tension is proportional to shedding amount. Table19 shows weft tension and end break of


Table 18. The shedding amount and warp tension of the test weaving looms


Table 19. Weft tension and end break of weft on the 3 looms.

Fig.21 shows histogram of these data.

Fig. 21. Diagram between end break and yarn tension of weft to the three test looms.

It was shown that loom rpm and weft tension are less correlated and end break of weft on the Picanol was less than those of FAST and THEMA even though weft yarn tension of Picanol was highest.

Fig.22 shows one cycle weft tension variation on the 3 kinds of rapier looms.

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 75

Fig. 24. Bending property of gray and finished fabrics woven by various looms.

low shed amount for weaving as shown in Fig.15 and 20.

finishing makes fabric extensibility deviating each other.

discrete finishing, respectively.

**5.3.2 Fabric bending property** 

looms.

As shown in Fig.23, for the warp extensibility of gray fabric, projectile(Sulzer) and rapier(THEMA) showed high values, then these looms showed high warp yarn tension and

This means that the higher warp yarn tension and the lower shed amount, the more extensible of gray fabric. And the variation of extensibility on the right, center and left sides of gray fabric woven by Sulzer and THEMA weaving looms is also larger than those of other

But, it is shown that these variations of gray fabric among various looms are less than those due to the method of finishing process. As shown in Fig.23, the warp extensibility of finished fabric for the continuous ( ) and discrete ( ) finishing shows quite difference compared to gray fabric. And comparing between continuous and discrete finishing, the variation of warp extensibility among various looms by continuous finishing ( ) is smaller than that of discrete finishing ( ). That results means that discrete

Especially, the variation on the right, center and left sides of fabric of warp extensibility of finished fabric ( ) woven by air-jet(Picanol A-P-L,C,R) and rapier(Picanol-GTX R-P-L,C,R) looms is larger than that of other looms. And comparing with weft extensibility of finished fabric between continuous and discrete finishing processes, continuous finishing is more even than that of discrete finishing. Among five looms, the variation of fabric extensibility of air-jet(Picanol-OMNI, A-P-L,C,R) and projectile(Sulzer, P-S-L,C,R) looms is the smallest both warp and weft directions, gray and finished fabrics, continuous and

Fig.24 shows bending property of gray and finished fabrics woven by various looms.

First, at the state of gray fabric, warp bending rigidity of gray fabric woven by Picanol looms(air-jet and rapier), which showed low warp yarn tension as shown in Fig.15 and 20, shows low values compared with other rapier looms(THEMA, FAST) and

Fig. 22. The graph of weft yarn tension variation of three rapier looms.

As shown in Fig.22, 2 kinds of high peaks revealed on the rapier looms, weft is gripped on the gripper, at this moment, tension is highly loaded and 1st rapier handed the weft yarn to 2nd rapier, 2nd high yarn tension peak is at this moment highly loaded, so 2 kinds of peaks are shown on this Fig.22.

And it was shown that maximum peak tension was ranged from 65gf to 70gf, but in FAST loom, ranged from 85gf to 90gf and Pocanol shows the lowest tension value.

#### **5.3 The physical properties of the worsted fabrics according to the loom characteristics**

#### **5.3.1 Fabric extensibility**

For surveying the effects of the looms and finishing process to the fabric extensibility, tensile properties of gray and finished fabrics were measured using KES-FB system. For five kinds of looms, gray fabrics of left, center and right sides on the fabric were used as a specimens and then gray fabrics were processed on the finishing process. The processing method in the finishing was adopted by two ways. One way was continuous processing with five kinds of gray fabrics by sewing(overlocking) as shown in Fig. 1, the other way was discrete processing with five kinds of gray fabrics. Fig.23 shows extensibility of these gray and finished fabrics with various looms.

Fig. 23. Fabric extensibility with various looms. (EM-1 : Warp, EM-2 : Weft)

As shown in Fig.22, 2 kinds of high peaks revealed on the rapier looms, weft is gripped on the gripper, at this moment, tension is highly loaded and 1st rapier handed the weft yarn to 2nd rapier, 2nd high yarn tension peak is at this moment highly loaded, so 2 kinds of peaks

**(a) (b) (c)**

And it was shown that maximum peak tension was ranged from 65gf to 70gf, but in FAST

For surveying the effects of the looms and finishing process to the fabric extensibility, tensile properties of gray and finished fabrics were measured using KES-FB system. For five kinds of looms, gray fabrics of left, center and right sides on the fabric were used as a specimens and then gray fabrics were processed on the finishing process. The processing method in the finishing was adopted by two ways. One way was continuous processing with five kinds of gray fabrics by sewing(overlocking) as shown in Fig. 1, the other way was discrete processing with five kinds of gray fabrics. Fig.23 shows extensibility of these gray and

Fig. 22. The graph of weft yarn tension variation of three rapier looms.

loom, ranged from 85gf to 90gf and Pocanol shows the lowest tension value.

**5.3 The physical properties of the worsted fabrics according to the loom** 

Fig. 23. Fabric extensibility with various looms. (EM-1 : Warp, EM-2 : Weft)

**1: warp, 2: weft** 

are shown on this Fig.22.

**5.3.1 Fabric extensibility** 

finished fabrics with various looms.

**characteristics** 

Fig. 24. Bending property of gray and finished fabrics woven by various looms.

As shown in Fig.23, for the warp extensibility of gray fabric, projectile(Sulzer) and rapier(THEMA) showed high values, then these looms showed high warp yarn tension and low shed amount for weaving as shown in Fig.15 and 20.

This means that the higher warp yarn tension and the lower shed amount, the more extensible of gray fabric. And the variation of extensibility on the right, center and left sides of gray fabric woven by Sulzer and THEMA weaving looms is also larger than those of other looms.

But, it is shown that these variations of gray fabric among various looms are less than those due to the method of finishing process. As shown in Fig.23, the warp extensibility of finished fabric for the continuous ( ) and discrete ( ) finishing shows quite difference compared to gray fabric. And comparing between continuous and discrete finishing, the variation of warp extensibility among various looms by continuous finishing ( ) is smaller than that of discrete finishing ( ). That results means that discrete finishing makes fabric extensibility deviating each other.

Especially, the variation on the right, center and left sides of fabric of warp extensibility of finished fabric ( ) woven by air-jet(Picanol A-P-L,C,R) and rapier(Picanol-GTX R-P-L,C,R) looms is larger than that of other looms. And comparing with weft extensibility of finished fabric between continuous and discrete finishing processes, continuous finishing is more even than that of discrete finishing. Among five looms, the variation of fabric extensibility of air-jet(Picanol-OMNI, A-P-L,C,R) and projectile(Sulzer, P-S-L,C,R) looms is the smallest both warp and weft directions, gray and finished fabrics, continuous and discrete finishing, respectively.
