**3.1.5 Weaving of the worsted fabrics on the three kinds of rapier looms**

For surveying the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyzing the mechanical properties of these worsted fabrics for emotional garment with relation of these 3 kinds of rapier looms characteristics, 5 harness satin weave worsted fabrics were woven using FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and Picanol-GTX looms, respectively. Table 8 shows the specification of weave pattern of these worsted fabrics. Table 9 shows the characteristics of these 3 kinds of looms. Finishing process was same as shown in Table 7.


Table 8. Specification of weave pattern


Table 9. The characteristics of loom used for the test

The sampling position on the fabrics for measuring fabric mechanical properties was same as shown in Fig. 2.

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

and warp and weft tensions was also discussed.

Fiber Composition Yarn Count Fabric

200D/384F

Harness motion Electronic dobby Let-off motion Electronic let-off Microprocessor Pick find motion

> OMEGA (Unit: mm) VAMATEX (Unit: mm)

Table 14. The characteristics of rapier looms used in this study

rapier looms used in this study.

Polyester 93.5% Polyurethane 6.5%

Table 13. Specification of weave pattern

Fig. 3. Specification of test looms.

Loom

**Vamatex®**

Weft

**)** 

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 63

For surveying the tension differences between Omega and Vamatex looms and analysing fabric mechanical properties using KES-FB system according to warp and weft tension differences, fabric was designed as 5 harness satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and was woven by Omega**®**-Panter rapier loom by

These grey fabrics were processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes which was shown in Table 12. Weavability was also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame was surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks

Table 13 shows specification of weave pattern. Table 14 and Fig. 3 show the characteristics of

Warp Polyester 100% 150D / 48F 5 Harness satin 102.5 158

Division Omega-Panter Vamatex-P1001es R.P.M (Max.) 466 (520) 423 (580) Maximum reed width 2100 1900

Structure

+ 40D spandex 72 83

Let-off motion

 **and** 

Density/inch Grey Finished

**3.2.3 Weaving of PET filament fabrics on the 2 kinds of rapier looms (Omega®**

Textec Co. Ltd and P1001es rapier loom by Vamatex Co. Ltd., respectively.
