**5.3.4 Fabric surface property**

76 Woven Fabrics

projectile(Sulzer). After gray fabric were finished, the effects of high tension during weaving were remained for the case of continuous finishing, i.e. the variation of bending rigidity among right, center and left sides on the fabrics woven by Rapier looms(Picanol and THEMA) was not shown on the finished fabrics, which showed lower warp tension variation during weaving as shown in Fig.13 and 17. For the rapier(FAST) and projectile(Sulzer) looms, the bending rigidities on the center of the finished fabrics showed the highest values comparing to the right and left sides on the fabrics, which is originated from high warp tension during weaving. And it is shown that there was no variation of the bending rigidity according to the finishing method for the fabrics subjected under low warp yarn tension during weaving, on the other hand, for the fabrics subjected under the high warp yarn tension during weaving, the variation was high as

Fig.25 shows shear rigidities of gray and finished fabrics with various looms.

compared to the importance of weaving process to the fabric bending property.

Fig. 25. Shear rigidities of gray and finished fabrics with various looms.

Shear modulus of gray fabrics like bending rigidity showed the variation according to the weaving looms as shown in Fig.25, i.e. High weaving tension makes shear modulus of gray fabric high, i. e. shear modulus of gray fabrics ( ) woven by Picanol (air-jet and rapier), which showed low warp tension during weaving, were lower than those of gray fabrics woven by other rapier looms (Thema, FAST) and projectile (Sulzer) as shown in Fig.25. But these variations disappeared after finishing, then shear modulus of finished fabric between continuous ( ) and discrete ( ) finishing showed large difference. These phenomena demonstrate the importance of finishing process to the fabric shear property, which can be

shown in Fig.24.

**5.3.3 Fabric shear property** 

Fig.26 shows coefficient of friction of gray and finished fabrics woven by various looms.

As shown in Fig.26, the variation of coefficient of friction (MIU) of gray fabrics ( ) according to the various looms was less than that between right and left sides on the fabric, and the variation of the MIU of finished fabrics by continuous method ( ) according to the various looms was also much less than that between right and left sides on the fabrics. But the variation of finished fabric by discrete finishing method ( ) showed big differences according to various looms and right, center and left sides on the fabric. This result means that discrete finishing makes fabric surface property deviating.

These phenomena also demonstrate the importance of finishing process to the fabric surface property.
