**1. Introduction**

54 Woven Fabrics

Sano, T. & Yamamoto, H. (2001). Computer aided design system for Japanese kimono, *IEEE Instrumentation and Measurement Technology Conference*, Vol. 1, pp. 326-331

Shinohara, T.; Takayama, J.-Y.; ohyama, S. & Kobayashi, A. (2008). Automatic weave

Grundler, D. & Rolich, T. (2009). Evolutionary algorithm for matching the weave and color

Tsai, C. M. (1986). Weaving Engineering for Shuttleless Loom, *Zuah-Wei Publishing Co.*,

Ujević, D.; Rogale, D. & Tržić, D. (2002). Development and application of computer support

Wang, X.; Yu, L. & Xie, S. (2011). Research on micro-electro-mechanical system computer

Wei, S. & Baodong, L. (2009). Study on information management optimization for CAPP by

Yamamoto, H. & Qudeiri, J.A. (2010). A concurrent engineering system to integrate a

Yang, X.A.; Sun, G.L.; Chen, H.; Liu, X.H. & Zhang, W.S. (2011). Research on design method

yang5336@126.com.cn, Copyright 2011 Elsevier B.V., All rights reserved. Zhang, J.; Baciu, G. & Liang, S. (2010). A creative try: Composing weaving patterns by

diagram construction from yarn positional data of woven fabric, *Textile Research* 

in garment and technical textile manufacturing processes, *Tekstilec*, Vol. 51, pp. 224-

aided design, *Proceedings of 2011 International Conference on Electronic and Mechanical Engineering and Information Technology*, EMEIT 2011, Vol. 3, Article number 6023393,

GA, *2009 2nd International Conference on Information and Computing Science*, ICIC,

production simulation and CAD system for FTL layout design, *International Journal* 

of electromechanical product form based on MA-GA, School of Science, Chang'an University, South Er Huan Road, Xi'an, 710064, China; email:

playing on a multi-input device, *Proceedings of the ACM Symposium on Virtual* 

Shie, P. (1984). Weaving Engineering, *Su-Hern Publishing Co.*, Taichung, R.O.C.

of woven fabrics, *Tekstilec,* Vol. 58, No. 10, October, pp. 473-484

Vol. 4, 2009, Article number 5169142, pp. 128-130

*of Product Development*, Vol. 10, No. 1-3, pp. 101-122

*Reality Software and Technology*, VRST.

*Journal*, Vol.78, pp. 745-751

Taichung, R.O.C.

pp.1556-1559

229

Many efforts for making good quality fabrics for emotional garment have been performed by SME weavers and finishers. And weaving machinery companies are researching about loom mechanism applied by low warp and filling tensions and loom mechanism for good quality fabrics. The fabric defects complained by garment manufacturers are stop marks, streaky phenomena on the warp direction, thickness variation and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics, which are partly due to the tension variation of warp and filling directions. Therefore, many researches(Basu, 1987; Islam & Bandara, 1996, 1999) related to the fabric defects and weaving loom mechanism were carried out and many patents related to the loom were presented by loom makers. Many researches related to the warp and filling tensions during weaving were performed with relation to the fabric defects. Fabric physical property is largely affected by various factors such as constituent yarn physical property and fabric structural parameters. But, the fabric physical property for emotional garment is also affected by weaving loom characteristics. Among weaving loom characteristics, warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving are the most important parameters which affects fabric physical properties and quality. And warp and weft yarn tensions are different according to loom characteristics i.e. according to air-jet, rapier and projectile. Even though same rapier loom, these tensions are slightly different according to the mechanism of rapier loom. Many researches(Islam & Bandara, 1996, 1999) related to the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were carried out with relation to the stop marks and other fabric quality. On the other hand, air-jet insertion in air-jet loom and its mechanical mechanism were also performed with variation of the air flow and weft yarn tension.(Natarajan et al, 1993; Adanur & Mohamed, 1988, 1991, 1992)

Recently, many simulation studies(Belforte et al, 2009; Simon et al, 2005, 2009) related to the air-jet nozzle on the air-jet loom were investigated. And new concept and recent innovations in loom were also studied.(Bilisik & Mohamed, 2009; Gokarneshan et al, 2010; Kopias, 2008) The warp yarn tension and weavability related to the end break during weaving were studied with relation of yarn physical property and weave limit.(Lappage, 2005; He et al, 2004; Bilisik & Demiryurek, 2011; Seyam, 2003) But, the fabric property related to the yarn

The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics

tensions during weaving.

types of looms.

for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics 57

On the other hand, many researches about mechanical property of the woven fabric according to the yarn and fabric parameters were carried out using KE-FB and FAST systems (Oh & Kim,1993). Among them, the PET synthetic fabric mechanical properties according to weft filament yarn twists, yarn denier and fabric density were analysed and discussed with these yarn and fabric structural parameters. On the other hand, the worsted fabric mechanical properties according to the looms such as rapier and air jet were also analysed and discussed with weaving machine characteristics (Kim & Kang, 2004; Kim & Jung, 2005). Similar studies were also performed using the PET and PET/Tencel woven fabrics (Kim et al., 2004). The researches related to the fabric mechanical property according to the dyeing and finishing processes were also carried out (Kim et al., 1995; Oh et al., 1993). According to the these studies, many factors such as the fabric structural parameters and processing parameters on the weaving and dyeing and finishing processes affects on the fabric mechanical properties which are governing garment's physical properties. Among these process parameters, weaving process is one important process which affects the fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft

On the other hand, the large companies for production of worsted fabric have sequential production line such as spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing processes, but some small companies have only one production line such as weaving, dyeing or finishing. So, large fabric lot processed in large companies is divided and delivered to the small companies by small fabric lot. Therefore, large quantity of fabrics are woven by various looms such as projectile, rapier and air-jet in various small weaving companies, and then, they are finished by various small finishing companies. It is known that these production system makes fabric physical properties such as hand, fabric thickness and shrinkage non-homogeneous. It is investigated that these non-homogeneity of the fabric physical properties may be originated

Many researches related to the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were performed with relation to the stop marks on the fabrics. Among them, Helmut Weinsdörfer investigated that the distribution of the warp end tension over the warp width and how it is influenced by the weaving machine setting. This analysis carried out on the poplin fabric using Sulzer projectile loom and a comparative investigations performed on a downproof fabric using a flexible rapier loom with rod type temples and a projectile loom with needle temples. In addition, he studied warp yarn tension variation according to the shed geometry, warp brake setting and loom speed using narrow fabric loom(Jacob Muller). But these researches are only contributed to the weavability related to the mechanism of weaving machine, and there were no investigations about fabric physical properties according to the warp and weft tension differences on the positions of the fabrics such as center and edges and according to the different looms itself. Many weavers are using various kinds of looms made by Japan, and European countries such as Italy, Germany and Belzium. Especially, polyester fabrics woven by rapier looms show many defects such as thickness differences and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics. Many weavers are thinking that the physical properties of fabrics including these defects are also different between fabrics woven by various

from the difference of loom even though the loom setting is same.

tension on the air-jet loom was investigated using yarn tension meter(DEFAT) by Sabit Adanur and Jing Qi. Weft yarn tension was measured with yarn physical parameters such as yarn count, twist multiplier, yarn hairiness and yarn elongation. Fabric physical properties such as weight and thickness, air permeability, dimensional stability and abrasion resistance were analysed with average weft yarn tension of air-jet loom. Fabric stiffness, drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery were also measured and discussed with average weft yarn tension. Many weavers are using foreign looms made by Japan, and European countries such as Italy, Germany and Belzium. Especially, polyester fabrics woven by rapier looms show many defects such as thickness differences and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics. Many weavers are thinking that the physical properties of fabrics including these defects are also different between fabrics woven by these various kinds of looms. And they are wondering how is the tension difference among various looms and how is the difference of the fabric mechanical properties according to the looms and the fabric positions with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions on the various looms, respectively. But, any investigations about fabric physical properties according to the loom characteristics and about warp and weft tension variations according to the warp position among looms were not found yet. Therefore, this topic surveys the fabric physical properties according to the weaving looms, for this purpose, warp and filling yarn tensions during weaving were measured on the various looms and the fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences were analysed using KES-FB system. In addition, weavability was also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the looms and the warp position. And the relationship between shed amount and warp tension on one fixed heald frame was surveyed according to the various looms and also fabric thickness according to the fabric width was measured for analysing fabric thickness variation with weaving loom characteristics.
