**3. Conclusion**

Most plasma treatments invariable increase the rate uptake of dyes by wool. They do not only remove the covalently bond fatty layer (F-layer) which end up to a less hydrophobic wool surface, but also results in exposure of the underlying hydrophilic protein material, which increase the effectiveness of the ionic interaction between protein of the epicuticle and exocuticle and the more hydrophilic molecules. Modification of external linked lipids from the epicuticle showed the importance of both hydrophobic and electrostatic interactions in the dye absorption (Naebe et al., 2010). Hydrophobic dye had little impact of the plasma treatment on dye uptake. It appeared that, for the plasma-treated wool, there was still a

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sufficient number of hydrophobic groups on the exposed surface of the epicuticle to facilitate this mechanism of dye adsorption. For the more polar disulfonated and trisulfonated dyes, it appeared that electrostatic effects were more important for adsorption than were hydrophobic effects.

With respect to modification of internal wool lipids, the fundamental role of the internal lipids in the penetration of dyestuffs into fibers should also be noted. A very different dye behavior was obtained for wool fibers with and without internal lipids. Maximum dye exhaustion was achieved in extracted wool when a hydrophilic dye was used. However, lower dye exhaustion was obtained in the dyeing process of extracted wool when a hydrophobic dye was applied. These different dyeing behaviors may be attributed to the interaction between the internal wool lipids and the dyestuff. It was deduced that the depletion of the hydrophobic internal lipid structure in wool leads to a more hydrophilic pathway. Therefore, hydrophilic dye may easily penetrates into the extracted fiber in contrast to the dye with longer alkyl chains.

The presence of liposomes in the dyeing bath promoted retention of the two dyes investigated, this effect being more important in case of the big molecular structure dye. It appears that the hydrophobicity of liposomes competes with that of the wool fibers so that the bigger molecular structure dye was retained in the dyeing bath to a greater extent. This study (Martí et al., 2004) also showed that liposomes and wool interact actively to each other. This interaction resulted in such a modification both of liposomes and wool fibers that eventually favors the dyeing process.

According to the arguments above exposed and taking into account the complexity of the fiber structure, it can be concluded that there are several barriers for dyeing penetration being important the F-layer of the epicuticle for the diffusion of dye through the aqueous dye bath to the surface. However, the results obtained from the study of the dye process of lipid depleted wool fibers and the liposome assisted dye uptake support the theory that the intercellular cement is the main pathway for dyes, highlighting the role of the internal wool lipids in this process mainly in the transfer of dye across the fibers.

#### **4. Acknowledgment**

The authors are indebted to Ms. I. Yuste for technical support. And part of this work was supported by funds from the INTAS Project 97-0487 and by Spanish National Project (Ministerio de Educación y Ciencia) CTQ-PPQ2009-13967-C03-01.

#### **5. References**


sufficient number of hydrophobic groups on the exposed surface of the epicuticle to facilitate this mechanism of dye adsorption. For the more polar disulfonated and trisulfonated dyes, it appeared that electrostatic effects were more important for adsorption

With respect to modification of internal wool lipids, the fundamental role of the internal lipids in the penetration of dyestuffs into fibers should also be noted. A very different dye behavior was obtained for wool fibers with and without internal lipids. Maximum dye exhaustion was achieved in extracted wool when a hydrophilic dye was used. However, lower dye exhaustion was obtained in the dyeing process of extracted wool when a hydrophobic dye was applied. These different dyeing behaviors may be attributed to the interaction between the internal wool lipids and the dyestuff. It was deduced that the depletion of the hydrophobic internal lipid structure in wool leads to a more hydrophilic pathway. Therefore, hydrophilic dye may easily penetrates into the extracted fiber in

The presence of liposomes in the dyeing bath promoted retention of the two dyes investigated, this effect being more important in case of the big molecular structure dye. It appears that the hydrophobicity of liposomes competes with that of the wool fibers so that the bigger molecular structure dye was retained in the dyeing bath to a greater extent. This study (Martí et al., 2004) also showed that liposomes and wool interact actively to each other. This interaction resulted in such a modification both of liposomes and wool fibers that

According to the arguments above exposed and taking into account the complexity of the fiber structure, it can be concluded that there are several barriers for dyeing penetration being important the F-layer of the epicuticle for the diffusion of dye through the aqueous dye bath to the surface. However, the results obtained from the study of the dye process of lipid depleted wool fibers and the liposome assisted dye uptake support the theory that the intercellular cement is the main pathway for dyes, highlighting the role of the internal wool

The authors are indebted to Ms. I. Yuste for technical support. And part of this work was supported by funds from the INTAS Project 97-0487 and by Spanish National Project

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than were hydrophobic effects.

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eventually favors the dyeing process.

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**6** 

 *Korea* 

**Flame Retardancy and Dyeing** 

Seung Cheol Yang, Moo Song Kim and Maeng-Sok Kim *Nylon Polyester Polymer R&D Team, Production R&D Center,* 

*Hyosung R&D Business Labs, 183, Hogye-dong, Dongan-gu, Anyang-si,* 

**Fastness of Flame Retardant Polyester Fibers** 

This is a continuation of previously published paper1, 2, 3) in which the dyeing properties and chemical resistances of the flame retardant polyester fiber according to the type of flame

Polyester, mainly poly(ethylene terephthalate) fiber is widely used for textile apparel, industrial fiber, tire cord, etc., and the demands and supplies are growing annually by 9%. As interest in the danger of fire, the demand for flame retardant polyester fiber has been strong and there have been many researches and developments to improve the flame

In the our previous publication1, 2, 3, we report the relationships between phosphorous flame retardants and the products such as polymer, fiber according to the type of flame retardants. Flame retardant polyester fiber is used for other purposes not as a normal PET fiber. Normal PET fiber is primarily used in the textile apparel whereas the flame retardant polyester fiber is mainly used for industrial applications such as the upholstery or car interior. Therefore, flame retardant polyester fiber goods are exposed to the open air more than a normal PET fiber. If the flame retardant polyester fiber vulnerable to UV, the application of the fiber is limited. So, the flame retardant polyester fiber must have good weatherability such as good

In general, Polyester fiber use deluster to reduce the transmission of light. Deluster, commonly titanium dioxide, shows good protection of UV in the fields, preventing the passage of light. However, the titanium dioxide has low band gap, between the ground state

Dyeing of polyester products primarily conducted at high temperature and pressure using disperse dyestuff. Disperse dyestuff is divided into nitrodiphenyl, amine, azo and

In this chapter, flame retardancy and dyeing fastness of flame retardant polyester fiber were compared with those of normal PET fiber in accordance with contents of the flame retardant and deluster. Increasing deluster(titanium dioxide) content in the flame retardant polyester fiber, flame retardancy is lowered, but dyeing fastness shows almost same level. Besides light fastness, dyeing fastness shows similar level with increased phosphorous content

and the excited state, it is deteriorated in high dosage and for long periods.4)

anthraquinone dyestuff greatly depending on its chemical structure.5)

**1. Introduction** 

retardants were reported.

retardant polyester.

light fastness and anti-UV properties.

compared with normal polyester fiber.

