**2. Material and methods**

### **2.1 The panel test and the additional criteria harmony (QHV)**

The German Olive Oil Panel (DOP), established in 1999 as a "virtual" panel [10] with the approval and support of the IOC, addressed the issue of different qualities within the EVOO category. The DOP was recognized by the IOC from 2001 to 2005 [11]. Since 2007, the DOP has been accredited according to EN ISO/IEC 17025 [3]. From 2011 to 2021, it is recognized by the German authorities, the European Commission, and the IOC [12].

The IOC has defined several guidelines and instructions for organoleptic assessment, which are continuously adapted. They include methodological aspects such as the necessary number of tasters (8–12), the basic vocabulary, the use of the profile

sheet, test glasses, booth, etc. All details are described in depth in the IOC standards T20 No.14/2021 [4] and Reg. (EC) 2568/91 in their current version [1].

As mentioned in Chapter 1.2 of the introduction, the Panel test (PT) result in the European Union and third countries is only used to classify whether the oil is "extra virgin," "virgin" ("ordinary"), or "lampante." This study is concentrating on those samples only which gained the classification extra virgin.

The idea to extend the official sensory evaluation of olive oil was developed in the DOP by the panel leader Dieter Oberg already in 2003 in order to further differentiate the quality within the highest category "extra virgin." For this purpose, it was necessary to extend the sensory test and as a consequence as well the profile sheet. A further parameter "harmony" was added at the end of the sheet analogous to the testing in many olive oils competitions. The official criteria defects, fruitiness, bitterness, and pungency remain unchanged. The tester follows the Reg. of EC/IOC for the result for the classification. But then it has to be decided for one additional but very important parameter "harmony" (QHV) in the same session.

The new QHV method [13] shows a mark in the middle of the additional line on the profile sheet (**Figures 3** and **4**), which indicates the mark "5" to the taster. Around this mark is a standard quality in the sense of an average quality or the cheapest offer often found in German supermarkets and discounters. A quality without sensory defects, but with a decent average in terms of character, flavor, or pleasant persistence, for example. Only 15–30% of the EVOO in the world reach values of more than 5.5 in the harmony scale. Values of more than 7 are only achieved by qualities, which are in a range of premium products. On the left side from the value "5" between 3.5 and 4.5, one finds oils with a sensory profile, which is "not sufficient" until "bad" depending on if a panel did not decide for a median of defect. Many of the so-called borderline oils are further left around 2.8–3.8. Oils with a recognizable sensory defect are only rated around 3 and, depending on the intensity of the defect, even lower or 0. Finally, it is the PSV who can along the results of the panel test decide if a median for a defect is reached and then will set the factor harmony to "0." In the training of tasters, the new criterion of harmony attempts to distinguish the fruitiness of an oil not only as present or absent, ripe or green. Now, for example, the differences between the olfactory impression (clean, clear, or less) and the subsequent taste impression


#### **Figure 3.**

*Excerpt from the profile sheet with additional line for harmony evaluation.*

*Harmony (QHV): Practical Experiences with an Additional Sensory Criterion for the Quality… DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.102994*

#### **Figure 4.**

*Rough division of the red curve (enlarged) of Figure 3.*

(harmonious or strange, unexpectedly good in the sense of the relevant criteria or not) are additionally included in the quantified result for harmony. The tasters are asked as well to recognize particular aromas in olive oils. Aromas appear to the taster as the scent of a large bouquet of flowers or as clearly recognizable individual aromas of certain leaves, fruits, vegetables, or spices. Beyond this, the persistence and mouthfeel of the sensory impression create an overall impression in the taster, which is then translated numerically. This requires a special training of the tasters, as they are not limited any more to the official criteria such as fruity-bitter-pungent but can recognize additional sensory characteristic aspects of an oil, similar to wine. There are more than 500 olive varieties [8] grown in different ways in more than 20 countries. The goal is to produce oils with a certain sensory profile, even below the premium class. Only the additional criteria of harmony can fulfill this ambition.

## **2.2 Methodology and practice**

The official methodology for determining the QHV value includes four steps, which are described below and can be trained and performed using the featurebenefit formula in **Figure 5**. The feature-benefit diagram is a path on the way to the decision for a certain value for the taster's QHV. The taster is referred to all four additional sensory characteristics (A–D) to be evaluated, can roughly tick the differently strong or less strong expression of the individual criteria, and thus arrive at a quantified overall result, which will be sent to the PSV.

**A.Relation between olfactory impressions (odor) and gustatory impressions (taste):** The first impression of the fruitiness via nose is the basic for purity and diversity of elements, which includes already the intensity. It feeds expectations for a similar retronasal impression. The second impression via palate (retronasal) can match the impression (plus/minus) or the taster has an unexpected impression with positive or negative olfactive elements.

**B.Degree of purity and harmony/balance of the positive attributes (fruity, bitter, pungent)**: This balance increases if at the end bitterness and pungency are in a balanced relation to the fruitiness—preferably with a long persistency. Less balance means if bitterness or pungency is too dominant, and the positive impression of the fruitiness is more or less disturbed. The decision for the intensity of bitterness and/ or pungency needs time.

**C.Diversity, purity, and intensity of aromas and the harmony/balance between them:** A sample can offer more positively a diversity of aromas in different intensities or just one single aroma—also in a lower intensity. A sample gives more negatively the

**Figure 5.**

*Feature/benefit chart as an aid to getting started with the decision way for the additional QHV.*

impression of not clearly to defined aromas and/or aromas, which have not a perfect purity or not clear to defined aromas. Some aromas can be detected retronasal only.
