**2.1 The methodology used and its relevance**

The three case studies already conducted are based on a common principle regarding methodology; namely the monitoring of the internal microclimate of the spaces where the textiles are stored in order to determine the characteristics of

**191**

the case of wool.

*Considerations Regarding the Research for the Conservation of Heritage Textiles in Romania*

its main elements (temperature, humidity, luminosity, CO2, contamination with bacteriological microflora and fungi). This has been achieved because it is known that historical textiles are highly susceptible to being damaged by the action of these environmental factors [51]. Theoretically, for textiles to be stored in an environment that is most suitable for storage, the indoor temperature should not exceed 22°C, with a relative humidity between 50 and 65% and a brightness between 50 and 80 luces [52]. To determine the temperature, humidity, brightness and CO2 concentration, a large number of electronic devices were used in the research, most of them being data loggers for the simultaneous monitoring and storage of the values. The values of the temperature and the relative humidity were determined using Klimalogg Pro, Thermal Imaging Camera FLIR I7 and Delta Ohm HD 32.3, brightness with the help of Digi-Sense Data Logging Luxmeter and Luxmeter data logger

Extexh SDL400, and the amount of carbon dioxide with Nova 5000.

was materialized by applying Omeliansky's method [54].

If all these methods presented above were of a general nature, being used to establish the influence that the internal microclimate exerts on the textile collections of each of the three analyzed buildings, further on an individual investigation of the fabric samples was carried out. In the wooden church, it was analyzed and represented in cartographic form, with the help of GIS techniques [55, 56], the areas of paintings on canvas anthropic degraded, as well as the distribution of temperatures and brightness within the frescoes. Finally, the colors used for painting inside were examined from the point of view of the internal composition, by digital techniques (X-ray fluorescent spectrometry) [35]. A digital technique was also used to examine two samples collected from old maps with textile support deposited in the

Regardless of whether the textiles are made from fibers of plant or animal origin, too high temperature can determine tissue weakening and discoloration. The increased relative humidity of the environment can cause its absorption to the textile fibers and as a result of the humidothermal treatments contractions can occur. Mechanical technological processes can result in a loss of elasticity, flexibility and tensile strength [53]. Furthermore, excess natural light can cause the oxidation of polymers from the composition of natural textile fibers, leading, in time, to the breaking of the intermolecular bonds, yellowing of the material, facilitating the breakdown and penetration of microbial enzymes [13], especially in

The pressure that the characteristics of the main parameters of the microclimate exert on the textile materials in general and the historical ones in particular, should not be considered as an intrinsic relation. These factors are interconditioning and acting simultaneously in the process of material degradation. Thus, there is a directly proportional relationship between the amount of natural light and the interior temperature, as well as inversely proportional between the temperature and relative humidity variations. Further, all these environmental factors contribute to the emergence and spread of microorganisms (such as bacteria and fungi), which present an increased risk of deterioration for materials of organic origin, such as textiles. The most favorable conditions for the colonies of fungi and bacteria are high temperatures (between 24 and 30°C) and very high relative humidity [51]. As a consequence of the activity of certain groups of microorganisms on textiles, we can mention: fiber degradation, discoloration, loss of structural resistance, shading of the affected areas in red, brown, orange or black, cracking and fragmentation areas [1]. For the determination of microbial contamination, for all three case studies the method of Koch sedimentation of the conventional techniques of open plates was used, the samples being collected both from the air and from the surfaces of the textiles. The sampling of the types of fungi and bacteria was done by microscope analysis, and the calculation of the average value of the number of colonies of fungi

*DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.91393*

### *Considerations Regarding the Research for the Conservation of Heritage Textiles in Romania DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.91393*

its main elements (temperature, humidity, luminosity, CO2, contamination with bacteriological microflora and fungi). This has been achieved because it is known that historical textiles are highly susceptible to being damaged by the action of these environmental factors [51]. Theoretically, for textiles to be stored in an environment that is most suitable for storage, the indoor temperature should not exceed 22°C, with a relative humidity between 50 and 65% and a brightness between 50 and 80 luces [52]. To determine the temperature, humidity, brightness and CO2 concentration, a large number of electronic devices were used in the research, most of them being data loggers for the simultaneous monitoring and storage of the values. The values of the temperature and the relative humidity were determined using Klimalogg Pro, Thermal Imaging Camera FLIR I7 and Delta Ohm HD 32.3, brightness with the help of Digi-Sense Data Logging Luxmeter and Luxmeter data logger Extexh SDL400, and the amount of carbon dioxide with Nova 5000.

Regardless of whether the textiles are made from fibers of plant or animal origin, too high temperature can determine tissue weakening and discoloration. The increased relative humidity of the environment can cause its absorption to the textile fibers and as a result of the humidothermal treatments contractions can occur. Mechanical technological processes can result in a loss of elasticity, flexibility and tensile strength [53]. Furthermore, excess natural light can cause the oxidation of polymers from the composition of natural textile fibers, leading, in time, to the breaking of the intermolecular bonds, yellowing of the material, facilitating the breakdown and penetration of microbial enzymes [13], especially in the case of wool.

The pressure that the characteristics of the main parameters of the microclimate exert on the textile materials in general and the historical ones in particular, should not be considered as an intrinsic relation. These factors are interconditioning and acting simultaneously in the process of material degradation. Thus, there is a directly proportional relationship between the amount of natural light and the interior temperature, as well as inversely proportional between the temperature and relative humidity variations. Further, all these environmental factors contribute to the emergence and spread of microorganisms (such as bacteria and fungi), which present an increased risk of deterioration for materials of organic origin, such as textiles. The most favorable conditions for the colonies of fungi and bacteria are high temperatures (between 24 and 30°C) and very high relative humidity [51]. As a consequence of the activity of certain groups of microorganisms on textiles, we can mention: fiber degradation, discoloration, loss of structural resistance, shading of the affected areas in red, brown, orange or black, cracking and fragmentation areas [1]. For the determination of microbial contamination, for all three case studies the method of Koch sedimentation of the conventional techniques of open plates was used, the samples being collected both from the air and from the surfaces of the textiles. The sampling of the types of fungi and bacteria was done by microscope analysis, and the calculation of the average value of the number of colonies of fungi was materialized by applying Omeliansky's method [54].

If all these methods presented above were of a general nature, being used to establish the influence that the internal microclimate exerts on the textile collections of each of the three analyzed buildings, further on an individual investigation of the fabric samples was carried out. In the wooden church, it was analyzed and represented in cartographic form, with the help of GIS techniques [55, 56], the areas of paintings on canvas anthropic degraded, as well as the distribution of temperatures and brightness within the frescoes. Finally, the colors used for painting inside were examined from the point of view of the internal composition, by digital techniques (X-ray fluorescent spectrometry) [35]. A digital technique was also used to examine two samples collected from old maps with textile support deposited in the

*Waste in Textile and Leather Sectors*

**Figure 3.**

**Figure 4.**

*Jesus.*

In the last case study, the conditions and the degree of conservation of the documents and textile materials deposited in the National Archives of Romania—Bihor County Service, based in Oradea Municipality—were examined. The researches focused on a thorough analysis of both the main parameters of the internal microclimate from several deposits [49] and of old maps dated between 1895 and 1910

*Traditional port and household items from Sălacea Museum House made of textile materials: (1) elements of the traditional port from the Ier Valley; (2) and (3) items for daily use made from different textile materials.*

*Painting on canvas from the ceiling of pronaos inside the wooden church depicting the Virgin Mary with Baby* 

Due to the different age of the three buildings, the different construction materials and the purpose they serve, the collections of textiles inside them are subjected to various anthropogenic and environmental pressures. If the building of the National Archives of Romania—Bihor County Service is recently built, using modern building materials and access is restricted, so the textiles inside are subject to minimal external influences in order to conserve them for as long as possible; at the opposite pole is the wooden church from the University of Oradea Campus. It is about 260 years old, built mostly of organic material (wood) and is a "living" monument (it still serves the purpose for which it was built) that houses an average of 60 parishioners at each religious service [7], the paintings on the canvas inside are exposed to much amplified pressures. As for the Museum House in Sălacea, it was built in the last century, made of beaten clay and covered with reed; functioning as a village museum, it is occasionally visited by tourist groups, the textiles not

The three case studies already conducted are based on a common principle regarding methodology; namely the monitoring of the internal microclimate of the spaces where the textiles are stored in order to determine the characteristics of

with the support of textile materials (especially cloth) [50].

being exposed to a very high stress (at least anthropic).

**2.1 The methodology used and its relevance**

**190**

National Archives of Romania—Bihor County Service. Namely scanning electron microscope (SEM); a technique often used in studies targeting textiles, but with a high efficiency in determining their degree of conservation. The use of SEM aimed to identify morphological aspects and irregularities of the fibers that make up the fabrics, as well as the presence of microorganisms and dust [47].

For centuries, the purpose of textiles has been to serve man. Offering protection against the glazes of nature through clothing and material or building houses (tents of nomadic populations), means of purchasing food (fishing nets and various traps), mobility in the territory (sails of ships), and many other practical uses. This has not changed until today, fabrics still occupying a central place in the everyday life of modern society. The relationship of interdependence created along the time between man and textile makes it impossible to analyze the latter separately from the creative element. Therefore, in the accomplishment of the three case studies, the influence of the internal microclimate on the conservation of textiles, as well as their integrated action (internal microclimate + textiles) on human health, was considered.

Furthermore, it is worth mentioning that all the interventions for determining and monitoring the degree of conservation of textiles have been chosen so that they are non-invasive for materials; ensuring that they are kept in the best conditions.
